Camaro :: AC Quit Eventually
Jun 28, 2011
My wife's car 95 Firebird formula a/c quit a few days ago. So far I've checked the charge and changed the high side pressure sensor, but the clutch will not engage. If I bypass the relay the clutch comes on and the a/c works. I've swapped out the relay with another one from my car that works and still no luck.
I've read through my 93 GM camaro service manual and it shows a low side pressure sensor next to the high side one. I've been all over under the hood of this car and there is no sensor that I see.
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My sons 97 has a lot of electric probs, one of which is the cig lighter quit working recently. I checked the fuses (under hood and on dash), and wiring to both plug-ins.
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
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Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
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I have a 96 Camaro that is rough when idling. However it isnt always rough sometimes I start it up and it will run great but other times it is very rough but only while idling. When I drive it and i starts rough I just turn it off and back on again and usually it will run fine the second or third time I do this. I have already ran a couple cans of Seafoam through it.
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The security light does not come on the car will not crank. replaced ignition worked for a while. Now the buzzer showing the keys are in the ignition also will not work.
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V6. Have a new a/c compressor and drier/accumulator to install. The box the compressor came in says "THIS PART CONTAINS NO OIL."
I will be taking the car in to a shop to get the a/c charged after I replace those components. What do I need to do to ensure the pump isn't damaged from the time I install it until it gets to the shop (which is about 10 min away). Towing is not an option.
I know about the cans of oil that you put into the low end side of the a/c system, but there is no negative pressure, so not sure if that would work...
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I have issues that are drivin me crazy. Cooling fans not coming on. I was driving and smelled antifreeze, I immediately looked at gauge was at 210. So I stopped to check, right side of radiator was split. Put new radiator in waterpump and thermostat. As the car was running during the flush process it started spewing so shut it down gauge was 210. Plugged in Modus ran codes were none for overheat. The cooling fans are not coming on while car is running, but I can turn them on with the with the modus so fuses and relays are all good. The one thing that puzzles me why it works with modus but not by itself. If that's not enough started a couple weeks ago sometimes when hitting bumps loose power to windows, radio, convertible top, and then hit a bump and it starts working again. I have been all under the dash and hood checking connections and grounds to no end.
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I can't figure this one out. Sometimes I turn it on all the way and it blows very little, barely noticeable and then it comes on eventually. Sometimes it works fine. Sometimes it seems to come on if I hit a bump or something and then off.
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When my car idles the heater blows cold air but as soon as i throtle it up or drive off it starts blowing warm air, just bought the car the only thing ive checked so far is the coolant level wich is fine.
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First thing in the morning It seems to take a lot of turning over before it fires, but after it fires up it seems ok untill it sits for some time, Am I dealing with a fuel pump problem?
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I was wondering if it was possible to swap the engine in a fifth generation Camaro with a less powerful one? Preferably an engine with 100-150 hp.
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I have a 91 RS 3.1 with a 5 speed that is not starting.
The problem started with the key not engaging the starter at all, a friend who is much better at electrical and we found the security relay switch behind the kick panel is not engaging on it's own. we manually engaged the switch and now the key will spin the starter but the engine is not firing up only spinning.
does the security relay switch control anything other than the starter engaging.
There is gas in the car. using a screwdriver and spark plug wire we have verified that we are getting spark.
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I have a 1984 camaro z28 305 that has problems with overheating. In temperatures below 70 degrees I don't have problems but above this temp I do. I put in a new radiator, thermostat, water pump (OEM), added an extra electric fan, and put the transmission on a seperate cooler. The engine was rebuilt a about 5 years and I think I had some problem with the over heating even before the rebuild. I park the car during the summer because I can't stand driving with the heat on in the middle of summer to keep the engine cooler.Would a high flow water pump work or what else can I look for?
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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96 chevy camaro 3.8. i got a problem with the idle temperature, just replaced the water pump and thermostat (180 degree). when driving around the cars stays at a constant 180 temp but when sitting and idling for more than 3 or 4 minutes the temp starts to climb and gets up to about 230-240 which i know is not good but that's when the fans start to kick on. The system is clean all new antifreeze, no air in the system every thing ready to go. I know its not normal for the temp to climb that high, what else could be cause this high temp at idle?
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My service engine light comes on after my camero has been running for a little while some times it takes about 1o minutes before it comes on it runs like there's no problems with it. I know there's a way to check it with a paper clip but I forgot what spots to put it in to get the codes. Its a 1989 camero r/s 305 tpi
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This intermittent no-start problem has been going on for approximately three years. It seems to be related to the fuel pump not coming on. When the car won't start - it will sputter a little then the engine will just turn over (strong battery) but you can't hear the fuel pump. Took it to the Chevy dealer first time and they said it needed a new fuel pump with a $1,200 price tag. We said we wanted to get a second opinion and took it to an independent garage. It's been so long that we forget what he did - but he did not replace the fuel pump.
A few months later - car does the exact same thing again, sputter then no start. Finally we we agreed to replace the fuel pump - so out comes the rear axle, exhaust system and fuel tank to install the new pump. Couple of months later - sputter then no start. Towed back to independent garage again after a few days it started with out doing any work on it. Started every time for the 6 months it sat at the garage. Attempted to replace the anti-theft model with a used one and he could get the car to start at all - reinstalled old module and it started immediately.
Have had the car back for a month and it sputters quite a bit before running. Today, sputter and no start . . . had the car towed back to the house in hope that it will start without intervention like the last time it went to a garage. The security system idiot light does goes off with the other idiot lights. I'm guessing the sputter is the gasoline that was in the system the last time the engine ran - then when no more fuel is being supplied - it won't start. The independent garage says they are reluctant to install a new anti-theft module for fear it won't be the solution.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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