Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Bad Fuel / Truck Started Chugging And Eventually Quit
Jul 2, 2017
I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
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I have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
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Ok here goes I dive a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 it's automatic 4x4. I dropped my kids off at school and was headed home turned a corner when the oil/temperature light flashed and the truck just quit. I tried restarting it and it just clicked like the battery dead. Had my better half come and jump it. Did not work it would only roll about a half Revolution and stop. So we towed it home where I put the battery on the charger. Now I can't even get it to roll over. And yes there is oil and it did not over heat.
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2004 f350 lariat Key fob slowly started not to work until it finally quit. Thought it was the battery but changing it had no change. Do the fobs go bad and need to be replaced?
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Ihave a 2004 F350 4x4 Dually diesel. While in my hay field I hit a small rut and the truck bounced. About two seconds later all gauges and lights/windows quit working and the truck ran rough. I have a Banks system and it registered a code 33. Maybe 32 error. Book says it is an airbag deployment. They did not deploy. So I drove out of the field and turned it off to see if that would reset the gauges. No, not only that but the gauges all swept the faces from off to full to off and the truck would not start, just chatter.
I disconnected both batteries and waited. Reconnected and it started, but the gauges quit after 10 seconds..... Everything flatlined even the banks IQ. But the truck kept on running. Got back to the ranch and the batteries went flat overnight... Charged them up, starts fine gauges work but alternator puts out 11.5.
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2005 F-350 6L diesel .... Put new batteries in it a week ago.
Been running good then the radio quit a couple of times. It came back on after truck was restarted. This morning I go to town and the battery light comes on. I stopped and started about 5 times and on the 6th it wouldn't start.
I got a boost and started home it , started to try and quit when I was almost home. Was so dead the power windows wouldn't even work. Have it on the battery charger now and it starts right up but the battery light is still on and the ABS light is on.
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So I went to start the truck this morning around 8:00 and it was 7 degrees outside, when the truck started the oil light came on and oil gauge was on low? So I turned it off right away. few hours later I tried it again and still nothing I thought maybe the oil was frozen. After I started the truck the oil was higher on the dipstick so I am assuming the oil pump is functional. What could be causing this? Could it be the the gauge is not working? The truck is a 2000 F-350 V-8 5.4 gas. I'm hoping it is something simple I am suppose to work this afternoon
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
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So a few months ago I would occasionally hear what appeared to be a slight squealing noise from a pulley when I started my truck. It was very intermittent, so I didn't think much of it.
After a few weeks, I realized I was only hearing it on colder mornings - it would also go away rather quickly. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope, and figured I'd get to it on a slow day.
Today, I finally broke out the scope and tried to figure out the source. Didn't really find any pulleys making noise, and I did notice that when I shut the truck off, it squeaks for a second or two as it comes to a complete stop.
My dream of finding a bad pulley or perhaps a power steering pump was crushed. I had hoped to do a little Easter wrenching and put this noise to rest. So, I did what any good mechanic would do - I Googled the issue.
I'm reading that it could be the belt. Certainly wouldn't bother me too much as that is an easy fix. The belt isn't too old - about 4 years and 20 - 30K on it.
I took a few pics of the belt and can take a video of start/stop ....
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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2002 5.4 super duty. My truck had started to ping, and knock worse over time. I did some research on this site, and I decided to remove my K&N air filter. Replace it with a traditional paper filter. Then I cleaned my mass air flow sensor. The results were great, no more knock and ping.I will check the MPG next to see if I get any improvements.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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1999 F250 7.3 240k miles .... This is the second truck to act like this on me after I cleaned the in tank filters.
I had to cut the fpr spring to 30lbs for the truck to start fine cold and idle ok but has no power. When hot it wants to die and or dies at idle and has next to no power. ( I'm guessing from lack of fuel) but it's the only way for me to use it. With a new spring and 60ish lbs of fuel pressure, they won't even start.
I cleaned the in tank filters. New fuel filter. new oil. rebuilt the ipr. unplugged the ipc. no loss of boost. checked my uvch, wiggled all harnesses with no difference. I also tried dropping the tank again in case I pinched the return line but that made no difference.
I'm guessing that I need new injectors. I'm not close to anyone with a computer nor can I afford to throw away any more money at the moment.
Totally stumped and cannot seem to find a definitive answer online so far. Both trucks ran somewhat ok before and got worst once I dropped the tank and cleaned the filters which increased the fuel pressure. This is my second truck to act this way.
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I bought a 1999 f350 v10 about a month ago took it on a 1200 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. Truck ran great till I got Kansas. The truck started to lope after I got fuel at a fuel station. Did not get any check engine light on. I check for vacuum leaks did not find any. I change all the coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve and fuel filter. Clean the intake and put sea foam in the fuel tank and the truck still idles rough. Change the egr vavle. Truck ran great till I got 10 miles down the road then the truck started to lope again. So I'm getting really frustrated over this truck.
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2001 F450/6.8 gasser. Auto trans. This strange thing just appeared from nowhere. Start the truck, put it gear. As soon as the truck starts to roll, the chime begins to sound. If I continue on, it'll beep 80 or 90 times before stopping. As soon as brakes are applied and the wheels stop turning, chime disappears. Happens in forward or reverse. No lights appear in the cluster. A check with an Actron scanner shows no codes or MIL. Seat belts are buckled.
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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This morning while driving cold a fuel leak started on my truck it's a very heavy leak wondering what are the most common leaks on an 2003 F250 6.0L are so I can start there.
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V-10 running rough at idle, chugging. a problem has developed with my 2004 E-350 V- 10 after having a new fuel filter installed and the induction service done . Picked it up from a local shop and it was running rough after bringing it in when running great! I figured maybe it fouled a plug or something so I drove it home but it didn't improve so I brought it back and had new plugs installed. It is still running rough and wanting to almost stall when accelerating from a stop and the shop cant figure it out , not showing any codes.
I'm thinking maybe they caused some type of vacuum leak that is so far undetected. The killer is it came to the shop running great !!
No other problems with the vehicle, I drive it every day and have owned since new. 278,000 on it now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned.
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Driving home tonight and heard and intermittent "chug chug chug" noise from the front end. Seemed to start after hitting a bump, then once I stop the truck, it goes away until the next bump.
2005 F350 fx4 CCLB 6.0 ...
Brakes were just replaced, one warped rotor and new calipers. I checked each tire and no signs of rubbing, no excess heat, no pulsing in the brakes or while stopping. Just had all new Moog problem solver ball joints, tie rods, and drag link installed less than a month ago. U-Joints are good, Spicer brand.
No loose parts, nothing with any play, no signs of wear anywhere that I could see, and the truck doesn't seem to drive or handle any differently. No jerking, wobbling or pulling that I could tell.
Here is a video : [URL] .....
Also, I have four new Bilstein 5100 shocks on the way since mine are pretty well toast, if that would make a difference. The truck definitely has a lot of bounce over bumps, almost floaty. And you can easily push down on the front tow hooks and watch the front end just bounce up and down a few times....
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