Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 V10 Rough Idle - Started To Lope After Getting Fuel
Dec 20, 2015
I bought a 1999 f350 v10 about a month ago took it on a 1200 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. Truck ran great till I got Kansas. The truck started to lope after I got fuel at a fuel station. Did not get any check engine light on. I check for vacuum leaks did not find any. I change all the coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve and fuel filter. Clean the intake and put sea foam in the fuel tank and the truck still idles rough. Change the egr vavle. Truck ran great till I got 10 miles down the road then the truck started to lope again. So I'm getting really frustrated over this truck.
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2007 f350. About 2 weeks ago my truck started smoking really bad, and I took it in to have it diagnosed. It was 4 injectors that were bad, so I had them replace all 8 and also install a bullet proof oil cooler. From the moment I got the truck back, it did not seem to idle as well as it used to, and over the next week, it began to blow a good amount of white smoke and run very rough.
But the weird thing is when I took it back to the shop to have it diagnosed, the minute I pulled into their driveway, it ran perfect, and they were unable to pull up anything. The next morning, I started my truck for work and as I drove down the street, the truck ran extremely rough, and seemed to be running in 2 cylinders. I shut the truck down, restarted it and it ran a little better, as I limped it back to the shop.
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I have a 2002 F350 with a V10, this just started happening where at times the truck will turn over but won't run... after a few times of trying to start it I pull the key out let it sit for 5 seconds then put the key back in and runs perfect..... now at the gas station the other day it started but ran like it was on 4 cylinders... I turned it off and restarted it and runs perfect. Heading to Kansas next week to pick up my boat and don't need problems....
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2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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So I went to start the truck this morning around 8:00 and it was 7 degrees outside, when the truck started the oil light came on and oil gauge was on low? So I turned it off right away. few hours later I tried it again and still nothing I thought maybe the oil was frozen. After I started the truck the oil was higher on the dipstick so I am assuming the oil pump is functional. What could be causing this? Could it be the the gauge is not working? The truck is a 2000 F-350 V-8 5.4 gas. I'm hoping it is something simple I am suppose to work this afternoon
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Tried changing fuel filters on my 2008 F350 diesel. Tried primary - open drain - no tool to remove cap, closed drain. Removed top cap, replaced filter.
Started but immediately shut down. Did this twice. Put old filter back in - still no start. Wrench code light on.
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Have a 2006 F350 5.4l that is mainly used as a plow truck. I drive it at least once a week when not plowing just to make sure it runs ok, etc. Only put on about 2,500 miles per year. Keep it in good repair - not by me, but by the dealer or mechanics.
Problem - last two times I started it, it started ok but runs real rough for about ten seconds. Sounds like the engine is going to die. After about ten seconds, it "catches" and runs normal. Have no problems when driving it. If I restart it, it doesn't do this, so it seems to only happen when the engine is cold.
Battery was brand new back in Sept. All plugs were replaced maybe 3 years ago, as was the cat converter and muffler. Run non-ethanol fuel. What might be causing it before I bring it in.
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
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1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
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2004 f350 lariat Key fob slowly started not to work until it finally quit. Thought it was the battery but changing it had no change. Do the fobs go bad and need to be replaced?
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1999 F350 SD ... Yesterday when goosin it to get on the highway my rig threw up a code quickly and engine temp started to increase. Once temp got in the red, oil pressure got a little figgity. The code was for the ICP(p1212), so I cleaned the plug and made sure coolant and oil were topped. This morning she ran barely over normal temp (stock gauge). This afternoon same thing as yesterday but without the code. When I let off of the accelerator temp goes down. I just got married so I have little funds to throw at a shop.
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Here within the next couple weeks, i am wanting to do some routine maintenance. right now on my list is just an oil change along with the fuel filter.
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I have a 2003 F 350 Diesel. When the heater is on, I can smell diesel fuel through the vent. This happens mainly when I am at a stop sign and the fan is on high. I did some research on this forum and found some others with a similar problem. The question I have is it seems like some said it was the cracked injector cups or a leak at the reservoir on top of the motor where the filter is. What I wasn't sure of was the symptoms. If it is a crack injector cup, would the smell be all the time and not just when I am stopped at a stop sign? Or would it be intermittent as well? It is definitely not exhaust smell. It smells like fuel. If it is the gaskets in the reservoir, I think I will do the blue spring replacement cause that seemed to improve a couple things based on the treads of the forum. I do see drips on the pavement every once in a while at the front of the truck towards the passenger side of the truck. Not all the way to the side near the tire, but off center on the passenger side. Is there anything that could be leaking fuel on that side of the motor?
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2003 f350 sd 2wd 5.4 auto cab chasis 40 gal rear tank (home depot truck//for real)
Wouldn't start/towed home/ran until it was parked ...
Bad fuel pump//replaced//new fuel filter ...
Starts but won't idle//will run if feathering throttle...
Code's po443/po1451/po1747/po755/po743 never had these codes before
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2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
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Having a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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