Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 V10 Rough Idle When Came To Stop At Light
Dec 24, 2014
2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
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I have a 2002 F350 with a V10, this just started happening where at times the truck will turn over but won't run... after a few times of trying to start it I pull the key out let it sit for 5 seconds then put the key back in and runs perfect..... now at the gas station the other day it started but ran like it was on 4 cylinders... I turned it off and restarted it and runs perfect. Heading to Kansas next week to pick up my boat and don't need problems....
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I bought a 1999 f350 v10 about a month ago took it on a 1200 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. Truck ran great till I got Kansas. The truck started to lope after I got fuel at a fuel station. Did not get any check engine light on. I check for vacuum leaks did not find any. I change all the coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve and fuel filter. Clean the intake and put sea foam in the fuel tank and the truck still idles rough. Change the egr vavle. Truck ran great till I got 10 miles down the road then the truck started to lope again. So I'm getting really frustrated over this truck.
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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2001 f250 v10 6.8l runs a little rough at idle, low rpm is ok between 1700 and 3000 rpm but around 3 it starts to shudder while driving let off gas get back on its fine, new plugs 1,000 miles ago has throttle body spacer and cold air intake, stock everything else..
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My abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
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We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
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I currently am driving a 2001 F-350 V10 SuperDuty, and recently the battery light was blinking. I replaced the alternator in it, but it didn't work. I thought it was bad so I went and got another and it still didn't work. Turned out that the alternator wasn't big enough. I then went BACK and got a larger alternator, and it still won't work. Now the battery light is solid, and I'm getting absolutely no charge out of the alternator. I checked all the fuses and nothing is wrong. It seems like all the things you think could be wrong are running perfectly fine! What could be wrong. The truck will start, and idle, but will run off the battery only.
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2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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2001 f250 7.3 crew
So, Saturday my abs lite comes on. Later that day I hear metal to metal sound for a couple of secs then it stops. Then the next day while driving I get intermittent sounds that sound like I'm dragging metal down the pavement. I see nothing but I'm thinking hub bearing. (Needle)
I remove the hub assembly from the knuckle and can find nothing wrong. I even picked up a new hub just on case. Now I'm stumped. Can't figure out what the sound was or is. Axle has a little play going into the housing but figure it would have due to the only thing holding it in place is the hub.
The only thing left in the area that could make the sound is major --the actual gears to to the front end. If the bearing isn't causing the metal grinding sound I've no other idea other than that....
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2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
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I have an '01 F350 super duty dually, 7.3L, auto trans. Over the past weeks my overdrive light on the gearshift would flash intermittently, maybe once every couple weeks. I chalked it up to a prior theft attempt where the steering column was damaged, and had turn signal/hazards issues after that.
Over the past few days my reverse gear has taken longer to engage, and is hard getting into the higher gears at speed. As of yesterday, reverse is out and won't shift out of second. Fluid level is good and clear. Could this be a PCM issue, or some sensor or relay?
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2007 f350. About 2 weeks ago my truck started smoking really bad, and I took it in to have it diagnosed. It was 4 injectors that were bad, so I had them replace all 8 and also install a bullet proof oil cooler. From the moment I got the truck back, it did not seem to idle as well as it used to, and over the next week, it began to blow a good amount of white smoke and run very rough.
But the weird thing is when I took it back to the shop to have it diagnosed, the minute I pulled into their driveway, it ran perfect, and they were unable to pull up anything. The next morning, I started my truck for work and as I drove down the street, the truck ran extremely rough, and seemed to be running in 2 cylinders. I shut the truck down, restarted it and it ran a little better, as I limped it back to the shop.
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2004 F350 6.0 Diesel 2WD, Question is my trailor lights running lights work fine also the electric brake, but i have no stop or right or left turn signals the truck signals are all working perfect. The truck came with factory wiring i have checked it at the plug on the bumper with meter to make sure it was not the trailor. Looked for blown fuses and cant find anything what am i missing it should have seperate fuses for trailor lights ??
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
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1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
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I have a 2002 F350 with the 7.3 diesel. I have had this truck since it had 30K miles on it and it now had 90K miles. It has been trouble free minus new pads and batteries. I recently changed the fuel filter and used a Donaldson filter. In the last week while driving the truck just mysteriously shuts off when I slow down for a stop sign. The only lights on the dash is the red battery light, and it fires right back up. I believe it has the original CPS in it as I have never changed it. Do you think this is the CPS going out or something else? I was wondering if the Donaldson fuel filter has anything to do with it?
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2003 f350 sd 2wd 5.4 auto cab chasis 40 gal rear tank (home depot truck//for real)
Wouldn't start/towed home/ran until it was parked ...
Bad fuel pump//replaced//new fuel filter ...
Starts but won't idle//will run if feathering throttle...
Code's po443/po1451/po1747/po755/po743 never had these codes before
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2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
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