We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
View 2 RepliesIm having an issue with my 2000 f250 7.3 diesel. 4x4. The od light is flashing and the tranny is kind of jerky when it shifts. Also my truck won't go into 4 low. (I have shift on the fly) and every time I put it in park my truck revs up to 2000 rpm for a few seconds. I do have a ts 6 pos. Chip with can tunes on it. And I have already replaced the IPR. It does it even in stock setting.
View 1 Replies2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
2000 F250 V10 Auto/Rebuilt Tranny... This weekend, I noticed my truck wasn't shifting at lower RPMs like it has been. I'm not hitting much higher RPMs per shift then normal. Very soon after, I get a "Service Engine Soon" light and my "OD OFF" light on my shifter handle started flashing.
View 8 Replies2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 F250 SD 5.4L with 335,000KM's(200,000+miles).
The engine light came on a few weeks ago and I cannot seem to get rid of it. I have also noticed when I'm accelerating hard at higher speeds/RPM's the engine light flashes?? After when I get to the cruising speed and let off the gas pedal the engine light stops flashing and stays solid. Also when accelerating hard there seems to be a hesitation, almost like the engine is choking itself. Once it gets passed the hesitation point during hard accelerating it seems fine? I have ran about 6 bottles of Seafood through the engine and gas tank. It definitely worked out but still has the hesitation, flashing engine light syndrome...I have changed the following with still no luck...
-Spark Plugs
-Coil on Plug
-Fuel Injectors
-Cam Phase sensors
I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
View 2 Replies2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.
Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.
I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.
I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
View 9 RepliesMy F53 motorhome has a rough idle and hard misfire but is not setting any codes. I've put new plugs in it and not change.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 F250, SuperCab, 5.4 triton, 100,000 miles. It's been a great truck - got it at 63,000 miles. Once engine warms up, it has rough idle, and shift rough. I can give it gas to RPMs up and it smooths out some but is low on power. If this was my 76 F150, I would guess the vacuum hose off the intake manifold to the transmission came loose.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 2003 6.0 that's got a rough idle and low power situation. Doesn't matter hot or cold it has a hard start issue but when it finally starts it has a rough idle, sometimes it has low power on take off but not always. FICM has 48.8 volts coming out, exhaust just had a new y-pipe (had a cracked bellow) absolutely no smoke coming out. When I drive it hard it's like a rocket no rough spots just did oil with filters and fuel filters, blue spring upgrade, and cleaned out the turbo.
View 2 RepliesV-10 running rough at idle, chugging. a problem has developed with my 2004 E-350 V- 10 after having a new fuel filter installed and the induction service done . Picked it up from a local shop and it was running rough after bringing it in when running great! I figured maybe it fouled a plug or something so I drove it home but it didn't improve so I brought it back and had new plugs installed. It is still running rough and wanting to almost stall when accelerating from a stop and the shop cant figure it out , not showing any codes.
I'm thinking maybe they caused some type of vacuum leak that is so far undetected. The killer is it came to the shop running great !!
No other problems with the vehicle, I drive it every day and have owned since new. 278,000 on it now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned.
I recently purchased a 1999 6.8L. Runs great when cold but after warming up the idle gets rough. Truck has new plugs and coil packs and fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and the idle is right at 30 psi. I read that the good pressure range is 30 to 45 psi. Is 30 psi acceptable or should I replace fuel pump or regulator? Any next step to solving my idle woes.
View 3 RepliesLast night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
I am new to the v10 I only ever owned 7.3 this is my father truck it's a 99 with 200k on it. The problem is it will idle fine when cold but when it is warned up very ruff idle no codes and when I go back at the end of this week I will check the O2 sensor with AE but I really don't know much about it.
View 2 Repliesthis morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
I recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
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