Camry :: 2000 Vehicle Overheating - Radiator Fans Kick In And Then Temperature Goes Down
Aug 27, 2014
My Camry seems to be overheating. When I'm driving the gauge maintains and reads 6/10, when the engine is idling, it goes upto 8/10, radiator fans kick in and then temperature goes down to 6/10 and keeps cycling over a period of 5 mins.
It's got 100K miles, water pump has not been replaced yet.
I checked the hose temperature; top hose 210 F, bottom hose 192, fans kick in when top hose is around 215 F.
I checked the engine temperature where the sender is installed and it was reading 205 F. Coolant level is OK. I burped the system. Previous owner told me, he had thermostat replaced by dealer.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
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My 2003 camry LE 4 cyl cooling/radiator fans stay on all the time. As soon as I turn the ignition key both radiator fan start to spin even though the car is cold and not on. I checked all the relays and fuses. Checked the voltage on the coolant sensor harness with ignition switch on, there is no 5v or the green pin is not grounded. I am clueless where to go next.
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I m having trouble figuring out why the radiator fans wont turn on, Even when the ac is turned on it still doesn't turn on, I changed the coolant temp senser. still nothing, i also ran a whire from the battery to the fan and they both turned on. I also stitched around relays and checked fused still nothing. 2000 pontiac grand am 2.4L engine 4dr auto trans.
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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I have a 2001 toyota camry ce in Miami, fl which is overheating. the fans seem to come on only if i turn on the a/c. however the temperature still rises and gauge needle hits red. if on idle the fans never come on. observed fluid inside radiator with cap off and it does not run through while on idle with a/c off, it just gets hot. changed thermostat and added new 50-50 antifreeze, still same. I'm suspecting a switch but why is fluid never running even when hot? I even drive it with hood open (unlatched) to let a bit more air in and still overheats, even with a/c on and fans running (again, they only turn on with a/c on), it overheats.
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I know the alternator needs replacing but why are the fan relays not working correctly. Also, the top radiator hose is really hot? I replaced the thermostat as well as the coolant reservoir? I also replaced a couple of the fan relays from my older wrecked Camry. Would the noisy alt that is going out have something to do w/the fans and fan relays not working properly?
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I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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For a while now I've been having issues with my truck overheating. Generally when I slow down, come to a stop, after driving a while. The other I replaced the radiator cap, as coolant was bubbling out after driving far. Thermostat was replaced. Radiator was flushed today as there was some rusty color build up. Added engine oil as it was VERY low the other day. So far I'm still getting the overheating issues and it seems to happen more so when I run my AC. I've noticed no significant leaking from anywhere else after replacing the cap. I'm thinking of either the water pump or the fan? But I dont know how to know for sure and I dont want to replace parts that I dont have to as a waterpump alone is $50-60.
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2005 Accent Hatchback... As of Friday I noticed my vehicle had been overheating. The coolant levels haven't seemed to change but this is a recent issue so there still may be a slow leak I'm not noticing.
I let the car idle to normal operating temperatures over the course of 17 minutes. While warming up the top radiator hose became warmer, and eventually hot -- the bottom hosed seemed to stay cold and didn't appear to change in temperature.
After reaching normal temps I let the car sit another 3-5 minutes to watch the temp gauge, which did not move. I drove the vehicle stop-and-go 5 laps around my complex(about a mile). There was no noticeable change in temps.
I then turned on the AC which blew ice cold and did another lap. After the first lap the gauge began to rise fairly quick. I immediately turned the AC off and drove the rest of the 2nd lap. The temperatures continued to rise throughout the 2nd lap. I parked with the gauge at about 62% assuming normal temps to be 50% (middle of gauge).
Once parked I checked the hoses. Top hose was hot, bottom hose cold. Coolant tank was at the HIGH mark previous to it being on the LOW mark before the car was started. The oil is at the same level as it was when I changed it a couple months ago, and it looked clean.
Before I started the car I also noted that the radiator was filled to the top. As mentioned OIL looks clean, coolant looks clean. No unusual smoke coming from exhaust or engine.
I've done a lot of reading and some information suggest that the thermostat might be stuck closed. Other post say that if the thermostat was stuck closed the top hose wouldn't get hot. But, these are also post for other vehicles so that might vary here.
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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I have a 2000 Ex with 252,000 miles. Where it is extremely hilly (Ozark Mountains). I tow a 6400 lb travel trailer. What I am having problems with is the Ex is running extremely hot when towing and climbing hills. Not in the red, but damn close. No problems what so ever when not towing. No problems when towing on level ground. I know the Ex is working hard, but I want to keep it running cooler. I have flushed the radiator literally 20 times and have done 2 chemical flushes. Is it time to just replace the radiator? How many passes does the stock radiator have? What about a bigger water pump? I have the 5.4 motor, which I love so no bashing my little V8. It has all the power I need. I don't need to climb hills doing 90mph.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 HD, 6 liter engine. The transmission warning gauge has been showing it's overheating. I changed the filter and fluid and the gauge still shows red warning.
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As it was such a matter of time, my fans on my 24v gave up during winter, no big deal as it was a pretty cold winter but now that spring is around the corner, I gotta fix this issue. To they change for the same OEM unit that will die in the next 30k miles.
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First summer with 2014 Passat. We have been getting close to 90 degree days this early in Summer and I have noticed a sensation that I have not had with almost the first year of ownership.
The last couple of days in stop and go traffic I have noticed that when the Radiator Fans edge up to the fastest cooling speed I can feel a vibration in the steering wheel. It is a strong vibration feeling. I had a friend turn off the car while the fans were going full speed. The largest fan on the drivers side seems to wobble as it cost down from the high speed. I am wondering if these fans can be balanced with counter weights.
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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So this seems to be a common code that is thrown when you near 100k miles, I'm at 77k .. This thread seems to be the most organized [URL] ....
"Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump "
My issue is that the only ones I'm (probably) able to rule out is coolant mixture and bad fans. My radiator fans do turn on from time to time, so I thought I'd ruled that out (unless it would throw a code for not turning on at appropriate times?)
I heard of a test to turn on your AC and see if they turn on, but my AC hasn't blown cold air like ever, so I don't know if that affects the test (probably not?)
A couple years ago I had a shop replace the original thermostat with the new one, or was it the coolant sensor, or both (ugh, I don't remember!) That leaves thermostat, coolant sensor, and water pump.
I guess my main question is is there anyway to find out which it is between these 3, without spending so time, money, parts etc? It doesn't seem the coolant sensor is easily accessible for one.
My car has been really slow recently but I also need to change the spark plugs, I'm doing that this week. I cleared the CEL/P2181 code and it returned a few weeks later,
I'm starting to change my mind about this car being easy to maintain/reliable, I'm always on time with maintenance and with only 77k miles on a 2004 car.
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I bought my car last May and never noticed the radiator fans running, but over the past couple of months they've been coming on (or at least running at a higher speed) pretty much every time I take it for a longer drive. They appear to come on only when I'm idling and turn off when I start moving again. The temperature gauge is steady at just below halfway. I'm certain this didn't happen previously, or if it did the fans were at a low enough speed that I didn't hear them. In my inexperience I would have thought they'd be less likely to run in the winter, and we've been having continuously cold weather (<30 C).
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I don't understand what is going on I noticed smoke coming from my fans radiator fans and I'm pretty sure that it was motor being fried I've gone to the junkyard and bought a used assembly hooked it up and still nothing could be a possibility that when the motor fried it fried the control module for the fans
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