I don't understand what is going on I noticed smoke coming from my fans radiator fans and I'm pretty sure that it was motor being fried I've gone to the junkyard and bought a used assembly hooked it up and still nothing could be a possibility that when the motor fried it fried the control module for the fans
View 1 RepliesAs it was such a matter of time, my fans on my 24v gave up during winter, no big deal as it was a pretty cold winter but now that spring is around the corner, I gotta fix this issue. To they change for the same OEM unit that will die in the next 30k miles.
View 3 RepliesRadiator fans making tons of noise on my newly purchased gli jetta...
View 3 RepliesI have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
View 13 RepliesA few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
View 1 RepliesI'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
View 4 RepliesI have an odd problem. My AC will not activate until the engine gets hot enough that the radiator fans turn on. Once they do, the engine RPMs drop, the clutch kicks in, and I get frosty cold air with no problems. I already replaced my FCM and checked all fuses. It worked consistently all last summer and considering the AC is nice and cold once it kicks in, I don't think this is a pressure issue and it was recharged at the beginning of last summer by a good shop.
I changed my coolant flange a few months ago, same temp sensor. Didn't try AC back then as it was cool outside still. Could this have something to do with it? I have proper readout on my dash. Maybe it's the ambient temp sensor?
2.0 Getta GL AEG 230,000 miles.
Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
As the title says, car is overheating. Car gets to 190F within a couple miles drive. Temperature fluctuates between 190F and 225F.
Water pump was replaced ~2 months ago. Was not overheating prior. Temp reached 190F and stayed. Currently has the "black top" coolant temp sensor.
I noticed the coolant fans are not running after I turn the ignition off. This time of year they would usually be running after turning the engine off. If car is overheated and with AC off the fans do not run while engine is running.
I used the guide below to try diagnosing the cause: [URL] ....
Remember both fans should come on in slow speed any time the key is on and the AC is on - if the temperature is above about 32 F (0 C). Both fans run with key on and AC on
S180 (fuse 8, 30 amps, green plastic, above battery) must be good for slow speed operation.
Fuse and holder look good: no melting, no discoloration.
S164 (fuse 3, 40 amps, metal strip, above battery) must be good for fast speed operation.
fuse looks good: unbroken.
To ensure the AC circuits and the Fan Control Module has power check:
Fuse 5 on the cabin fuse panel.
Fuse 16 on the cabin fuse panel. When this fuse is blown the radiator fans will often run unexpectedly.
Fuse 25 on the cabin fuse panel.
All three fuses look good: unbroken
For the first test of the slow speed fans from the radiator thermoswitch have the key off.....Both fans should run in slow speed.
Passed test: both fans run slow
The second test is for the fast speed fans, key on, AC off.... Both fans should run in fast speed.
Passed test: both fans run fast
If the fans run in the tests above, then you should be good to go. No further tests are needed.
If you have been seeing high coolant temperatures and the fans have not been running, then you may need a new thermoswitch.
I bought my car last May and never noticed the radiator fans running, but over the past couple of months they've been coming on (or at least running at a higher speed) pretty much every time I take it for a longer drive. They appear to come on only when I'm idling and turn off when I start moving again. The temperature gauge is steady at just below halfway. I'm certain this didn't happen previously, or if it did the fans were at a low enough speed that I didn't hear them. In my inexperience I would have thought they'd be less likely to run in the winter, and we've been having continuously cold weather (<30 C).
View 62 RepliesLately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
So this seems to be a common code that is thrown when you near 100k miles, I'm at 77k .. This thread seems to be the most organized [URL] ....
"Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump "
My issue is that the only ones I'm (probably) able to rule out is coolant mixture and bad fans. My radiator fans do turn on from time to time, so I thought I'd ruled that out (unless it would throw a code for not turning on at appropriate times?)
I heard of a test to turn on your AC and see if they turn on, but my AC hasn't blown cold air like ever, so I don't know if that affects the test (probably not?)
A couple years ago I had a shop replace the original thermostat with the new one, or was it the coolant sensor, or both (ugh, I don't remember!) That leaves thermostat, coolant sensor, and water pump.
I guess my main question is is there anyway to find out which it is between these 3, without spending so time, money, parts etc? It doesn't seem the coolant sensor is easily accessible for one.
My car has been really slow recently but I also need to change the spark plugs, I'm doing that this week. I cleared the CEL/P2181 code and it returned a few weeks later,
I'm starting to change my mind about this car being easy to maintain/reliable, I'm always on time with maintenance and with only 77k miles on a 2004 car.
So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
I bought this 2003 gti in July, noticed a little smoke coming out near the airbox but the motor had been cleaned recently so I assumed it was whatever they used cleaning it just burning off.
Today, installing an air filter, I see that there is a rubber hose dry rotted with smoke coming from it. I don't know what it goes to or how to replace it. The car drives fine. I do have CEL on for a coolant system fault, but all fluids are level it's not overheating and it doesn't seem to be losing any power.
I own a 03 mk4 jetta 2.0 I revved her up to 5000 rpm coming onto traffic. Drove about a mile or so when I noticed the temp going up. Pulled over and checked all my fluid levels and looked under for any leaks. Got back in the car turned it on and saw temp was normal again. I drove not even a quarter of a mile when I saw smoke coming out the rear of the car. Let the gas pedal go and when I did that the car started downshifting. Its an automatic. When it got down to the last gear the battery, check engine light, and epc light came on and car cut off. Cruised until I could stop somewhere safe on neutral. When I completely stopped I tried cranking but no crank. When I turn the key, lights and everything is good. Just no crank.
View 1 RepliesI was driving home today when I accelerated to go up a hill and started smelling something burning, pulled over and noticed my flex pipe was completely blown apart and the heat shield behind it smoking. I pulled over and got some water on it and it stopped but after I started driving again the smoke got even worse. This time it was something different than the first time. Could it be the heater core going or the foam inside the hvac system burning?
View 4 RepliesI got my 2.0 turbo project up and running. no CEL but i did have a bad o2 code but it was erased and didn't come back.
Not only is it rough idle and smoking out the exhaust but i am also getting smoke out of my catch can vent.
The smoke looks black coming out of the tailpipe but little blue after it gets out a ways from the car. Where to look??
I did just replace a piston and install a head gasket spacer. I don't know if that could be causing it some and it will go away with some driving or what?
I have not taken it out on the road as I have some brake work to finish. so mostly it idled.
Here is a link to a video on what the car is doing : [URL] .....
Its a 01 engine code....
My 06 Elantra with 115K miles on it broke down in the middle of the road on Thursday. The smoke was coming from under the hood. Towed it in to a Hyundai dealer, they looked at it on Friday and told me I needed a new radiator, the old one cracked at the upper seam line (whatever that means). I told them to go ahead with replacing a radiator, which they did. Today, Saturday morning, same problem, the car is blowing smoke from under the hood, spilling the coolant on the road. Towed it back to the dealer again. They say that the new radiator broke down, it cracked in the same spot as the last one and they're trying to figure out what's going on. Haven't heard from them again today and they're closed right now. I hope they will fix it on Monday. What might be causing this problem? Are there any other parts that might be causing the radiator to break like this? Is this a common problem for Elantra XD?
View 4 RepliesMy car was starting to over heat and I wasn't getting any heat thru the vents. Thermostat was replaced and so was the radiator cap. The coolant reservoir is still topped off, and doesn't seem to be getting sucked thru to the radiator. If I pour coolant directly into the radiator, car temp stays even, and heat eventually does come thru vents, better while driving. But, I still get steam/smoke coming from radiator cap. I cannot be buying and pouring coolant into the radiator everyday. I have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse with approx 140xxx miles...
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 nissan altima. About 4 weeks ago it started over heating, smoke coming from under the hood, not the gauge raising. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the big hose going from the radiator to the engine. I got it back and about 2 days later it started again overheating again, smoke under the hood. Took it back and he said the radiator is leaking it was under a year old so he replaced it, i drove it home on a sunday and monday morning I drove to work 5 miles at 10 am break it had two puddles under it. He said it's the radiator again, replaced it and we went to pick it up and he said it blew again. Sounds odd to me He finally said they thought it was the fans. The gauge never ran hot only the smoke coming from under the hood. If your looking under the hood it was wet on the left side. Needless to say he has had my car for almost 2 weeks and it's still not fixed. My question is should I go get it and take it somewhere else. What damage will it do to drive it somewhere else?
View 19 RepliesI was teaching my kid how to drive in a parking lot and noticed white smoke coming from the front when parked. There seems to be a leak on the top side of the radiator, where the plastic top connects to the aluminum body. I also noticed that radiator fan does not come up at all. Outside temp was around 40F but I would think it should have come on when driving at 5-15 mph in a parking lot for 1+ hours. Temp gauge is on the left side of the middle indicator so technically the engine is not overheated, unless the temp probe is bad. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? I have a 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L GLS FWD.
View 19 Replies