I've got a camry 2001 4cly 2.4l vvti auto with 120 000kms. Recently i had a issue with the car car suddenly jerking while driving and at a stand still and stalling too. i done a bit of scouting around and come to the conclusion the tps has gone (checked on a multimeter) Change it and the car come good till about 1 week ago now it is doing it a lot more frequent.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 Replies03 Camry. 117,000 miles. 4cyl. Jerks and gives stalling feeling when in reverse, idle at stop lights and during initial acceleration. Feels like it is going to shut off. No major noises. No check engine light on. Car was fine when I bought it 2 months ago, just started this 3 days ago.
View 3 RepliesBought a 2006 2.4L Sante Fe a few months ago. Had a couple incidents of it jerking after descending the same hill in our neighbourhood. Have a 6 month warranty so brought it to mechanic. All their "scans" were showing everything working so they guessed at replacing the fuel pump and filter. A week later did the same thing but this time it stalled out and I had to jump start to get it back to garage. My wife scanned the internet and noticed other similar complaints. The crankshaft position sensor seemed to come up as being replaced in these incidences, and apparently the "scan" will not show it as failed if it is still somewhat operable. Based on that, we told the garage to replace it as they literally could not figure out what was wrong with the car, having driven it over several days for it to repeat the jerking and stalling we had experienced. It has only been a few days so here's hoping that was the answer.......
View 1 RepliesSo my R32 just recently started to stall at any stand still longer than 1-2 mins with the A/C on. Every thing works perfectly fine as avertised as long as the engine has not warmed up yet, I am driving at a cruising speed, or the A/C is not turned on. I'm thinking the issue maybe be heat related causing the crank position sensor to malfunction. Is there anyway to check the cps with Vagcom?
View 18 RepliesI have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
View 9 Repliesthis is regarding a 2001 taurus sedan 3.0 liter 116,000 miles.She developed an intermittent starting problem. No particular time or situation to when it would do it.Had it diagnosed as a crankshaft sensor which was replaced. fixed the start issue but then had a noticable missfire or jerkiness to the car while accellerating. I was told it could be fuel filter so replaced that.After getting it back it still had a very noticeable jerking to the drive. Was next told it might need injector cleaning. The exhaust sensor light would come on at times. So it was suggested to change an injector in cylinder 1 as that was the problem cylinder. Not sure if that has fixed the problem as I have not yet got the car back as there was a problem reinstalling the tank that required parts from Ford to fix.If I get it back and it still misses what else could it be? I was told maybe a valve for that cylinder, does that say the end is near for this vehicle?
View 2 RepliesRecently got my oil change and doing the oil consumption test at the same time. Just put like 200 miles since but this past few days engine stalls. What could be the problem? Already check battery terminals. Could be the battery dying. Its 2009 camry.....
View 1 RepliesLooking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
I have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Ranger with stalling problems. Recently I have narrowed the range of possibilities to a fuel delivery problem. The truck has 85,000 miles on it and I had the fuel pump replaced about 10,000 miles ago, the fuel filter was replaced at the same time. The stalling usually happens after it has run for a while and can happen while idling or driving at any speed. . .whenever it lacks fuel. It will restart and run ok for a while after if you leave it alone for a half hour or more. Over the last few months it has happened with greater frequency to the point where I am currently not driving it. I can get it to stall in my driveway by letting it run for ten min. or so. I am getting two computer codes: PO 402 and PO 453.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesMy standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.
I get a whooshing noise coming from under the dashboard on the drivers side of the car every time I accelerate from a standstill. It sound like water flushing down a pipe. All the fluids are ok & I have zero leaks. Before I take the car to a repair shop & get a bad deal. The car has 58,000 miles on it.
View 15 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
Why my 2002 volkswagen jetta station wagon is jerking, resetting the clock, flashing all the indicators on the dash, and Its stalling. When it start it to drive the transmission won't shift until it runs for about 5-10 minutes. One mechanic said the computer keeps resetting itself. The dealer said I needed a new transmission, but after 5 minutes the transmission shifts. It only has 117,000 miles.
View 19 RepliesI've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
My new LS460 AWD 2008 is jerking on 60-80KPH(37-50)MPH, when you driving without any acceleration.
I have only 900km on odometer. And it's started jerking from 0. I gave my to Lexus for a test. They tested it over 7 days, and now they are saying nothing is wrong with it. And it's normal for AWD version.( WHAT???? )
They have one more new AWD 2008 and it has the same jerking issue.
My 05 Cherokee has begun to jerk while driving. It's only just a jerk or two and then it smoothes out and drives fine. It only happens while driving never from a stop.It is also hesitating a little while starting. It always starts but I have never had this problem before. Not sure if the two issues are related or not but thought I would mention it.
View 16 Replies