Ford - Ranger :: 2001 - Stalling While Idling Or Driving At Any Speed
May 29, 2012
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with stalling problems. Recently I have narrowed the range of possibilities to a fuel delivery problem. The truck has 85,000 miles on it and I had the fuel pump replaced about 10,000 miles ago, the fuel filter was replaced at the same time. The stalling usually happens after it has run for a while and can happen while idling or driving at any speed. . .whenever it lacks fuel. It will restart and run ok for a while after if you leave it alone for a half hour or more. Over the last few months it has happened with greater frequency to the point where I am currently not driving it. I can get it to stall in my driveway by letting it run for ten min. or so. I am getting two computer codes: PO 402 and PO 453.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
View 2 Replies
My 1999 ford ranger, when started, shakes and then while i am driving. my check engine light is on and reads a #3 cylinder misfire. I have taken it somewhere to get it checked out and they can't figure out what is wrong with it. this problem only happens 50% of the time. I don't know what to do. Also just got a tune up.
View 14 Replies
I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
View 5 Replies
My beloved standard, 2000 Ford Ranger, with an estimated 170,000 miles on it, has a problem with stalling that keeps getting worse. 2 different garages have failed to fix this problem three times. Many parts have been replaced/checked (like battery, plugs/wires) and the fuel and induction system was cleaned, fuel pressure, Compression and engine vacuum were all fine. The Check Engine Light goes on and off all the time and does not seem to relate to the problem. When the last garage hooked it up to the computer, nothing related to the problem was identified, they reported. The invoice/report from them is attached to this posting.
My problem began about 2 years ago. The truck would only stall out when I first began driving, after about a mile, and only if I was going downhill and was coming to a stop. Then it would putter and choke and ultimately stall out completely. After my 30 minute commute (near highway speeds) the truck would then be fine the rest of the day, with no problems stalling when I drove to a meeting or out to lunch. Since it began, it has gotten steadily worse. Now, pretty much whenever I decelerate downhill, and come to a halt, it will stall out unless I leave it in neutral and keep fluttering the gas peddle to give it more gas. It even happens when I'm not going downhill. It does not happen when I first start driving, but after a mile or so, it happens almost whenver I come to a stop. It sounds like the truck isn't getting enough gas, and if I don't keep pumping it with signifcantly more gas, it will stall.
Once stalled out, if I try to start it up again immediately, it is VERY hard to make it start. I have to keep turning it over before it finally sparks to life. It sounds pretty awful. otherwise it starts easily. IF, however, I let it stall out in a parking lot at a gas station, for example, and I go into the store and make a couple quick purchases, when I go out to start the truck, it fires right up with no problem. It only has a VERY hard time starting up when I'm in an intersection and try to re-start it immediately after it stalls out.
The two different garages that have failed to fix it were both able to easily replicate the problem, so that was not an issue. Amount of gas in the truck and temperature outside are both irrelevant.
View 3 Replies
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 Replies
Finally back able to start working on the Ranger and have a few questions.
When I got this thing back from my son it was running rough. I've fixed all the codes it was getting so no luck there now. Not sure how to explain it but, it feels like it is cutting back when driving at a steady speed and it idles rough. Not really like a miss but more like a hesitation when driving.
I've cleaned the MAP and IAC and changed the fuel filter. I also pulled the plugs and they looked good. My son installed new plugs and wires but he used the E3's and not sure how, or if, you're suppose to set the gap. I haven't checked the PCV yet because haven't figured out how exactly you get it out without pulling the intake.
So, where to look next? I'm kind of thinking the cam sensor but think I'll leave that to a shop sense I want the shaft replaced at the same time.
View 2 Replies
My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
View 9 Replies
When the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
View 5 Replies
I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
View 5 Replies
MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
View 14 Replies
Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
View 5 Replies
I've got a camry 2001 4cly 2.4l vvti auto with 120 000kms. Recently i had a issue with the car car suddenly jerking while driving and at a stand still and stalling too. i done a bit of scouting around and come to the conclusion the tps has gone (checked on a multimeter) Change it and the car come good till about 1 week ago now it is doing it a lot more frequent.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
View 5 Replies
Today my 2001 ford range edge starting running funny. When in park it idles around 3k rpm and then when driving it feels like it wont shift past 2nd because it is around 4k rpm around 50mph and I'm afraid to go to any higher speed for fear of damaging the engine. I'm currently at work so im unable to really get under the hood atm.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 7.3 ford the seal in the turbo went and oil went in the exhaust. lots of oil like 10 quarts. I had a rebuilt turbo installed ran great for 2 weeks then one day out of the blue started idling rough and then downward from there no power stalling etc I have my super chip scanner it read dtcs of 1249 478 1211 and 238. Is it possible the muffler is plugged with oil? or is it and ipr? 193000 miles....
View 3 Replies
It's been a long time since I have posted here mainly because my truck was wearing a bow tie for awhile. But my wife was nice enough to tell me the Bow Tie wearing truck was making a funny noise on New Years Day (seems a small drum corps took up residence in the oil pan). So anyhow now I am back in a real truck . My new to me 1998 F150 5.4 Liter ran fine until yesterday. It started idling rough and almost stalling at red lights. about halfway home the CEL light came on and is throwing a P0171 code.
So far I have checked for vacuum leaks including all the elbows on the PCV system' tried the spray test with a can of flammable break fluid and a can of starting fluid (man I love the smell of that stuff) could not find a leak. Cleaned the MAF sensor and the K&N air filter (not a fan of these) IAC seems to be working. Only thing I know that is leaking for sure is the driver side exhaust after the cat. But that is the wrong bank if I am correct on which bank is which.
So why only one bank running lean and why does it act like it is only firing on 4 cylinders?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.
Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.
Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?
View 8 Replies
I am getting a drone like sound when driving at any speed only when applying the gas, is this normal if not what would be the problem here.. I drive a 2.7 Litre / 2006 Santa Fe.
View 7 Replies
I have a 1998 Pathfinder with around 160,000 miles on it. This week it has had some issues with stalling when I am idling. The first time it happened, I was at a stoplight and it cut out 3 times and I was able to start it back up and drive the rest of the way home (40 miles) with no problem. The next time it started stalling out I was at a stoplight and was able to put it in neutral and rev the engine and it stayed on. I have a 45 mile commute to and from work every day, and I don't want this to happen when I am on the highway going 65mph.
View 4 Replies
