Camry :: 2002 - Grinding Noise And It Won't Move In Reverse Or Drive
Mar 28, 2016
I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
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2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
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Is there a programming sequence that will keep my 2002 Camry from locking all doors when the vehicle is put in drive/reverse. I realize this is considered a safety feature but I prefer to lock them myself.
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My car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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I have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4, the truck has not been driven in a few years and it’s been outside in my driveway up on jack stands. I just rebuilt the front end and did a four wheel break job, after getting the truck off the jack stands, I can't get it to move in drive or reverse. I also noticed that when you go from reverse to park the gears grind and I can't even get it to shift into 4H. I checked the tranny fluid and it is fine, also the tranny was just rebuilt a few years before I stopped driving the truck.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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I have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
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I had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
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I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
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Sometimes when my car as sitting at an idle in either drive or reverse the motor starts to make a knocking noise from the back of the motor towards the firewall side on the top of the motor. I have a video. The car has 114k I just changed the oil I thought maybe it's low but it's not and hasn't moved since it was changed.
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I've got a 02 Camry with a manual. In 5th gear, cruising on highway, there's a low grinding/ rattling noise. it doesn't do it if you try to accelerate, or if you have no throttle input at all, meaning it only makes the noise when trying to keep one speed, typically around 2000-2500 rpm. If i grab the shifter and apply pressure in any direction, the noise goes away. I've owned the car for 3 years now and its always done it, and hasn't gotten any worse or changed at all. I'm experiencing no performance issues and just chalked this up to gear noise, but recently read someone else was having same issue, and everyone was clamoring on about needing new bearings.
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The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
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I had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
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My 2002 Standard Kia Spectra. My car had been sitting and undriven for 6 months, after charging the battery and starting the car, I am having trouble shifting to gear. I was able to shift into reverse, with lots of grinding, but getting into 1st gear, I had to shut off the car and shift into gear, then start the car. I test drove around the block and I was able to get it into a few gears, but really had to press on the clutch hard. Although, when I stopped and tried 1st again, i had to shut off the engine to shift.
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