Kia - Spectra :: 2002 - Lots Of Grinding While Shifting Into Reverse
Feb 9, 2014
My 2002 Standard Kia Spectra. My car had been sitting and undriven for 6 months, after charging the battery and starting the car, I am having trouble shifting to gear. I was able to shift into reverse, with lots of grinding, but getting into 1st gear, I had to shut off the car and shift into gear, then start the car. I test drove around the block and I was able to get it into a few gears, but really had to press on the clutch hard. Although, when I stopped and tried 1st again, i had to shut off the engine to shift.
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today. So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out. However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today.
So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out.
However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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I have a 2004 KIA Spectra with an automatic transmission which now has slightly over 100k miles. It has been a very reliable car up until last year when it stopped shifting into third gear. It shifts easily from P to R to N to D, shifting easily to 1st and 2nd, yet when the speed is met to allow changing to 3rd it becomes neutral, slipping only back to second when the speed of the car slows. My question: Is this something electrical or mechanical?
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-5 sedan with a manual 5-speed transmission. It runs like a champ until recently. I've been having a lot of difficulty shifting into reverse. I've taken off the gaitor and looked down into the shifter to make sure everything is ok - looking for broken plastic, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. Clutch fluid is full. It all of a sudden started doing this. The car shifts through all 5 forward gears with no issues. I can eventually get it into reverse if I'm patient enought and other times it goes right in with out issue. Any clues? A saab dealer says its the transmission, but I'm not so sure.
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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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My car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
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2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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My friends truck is having a problem, and I haven't found any info on the specific issue. when you shift from P to D and accelerate, there's a slight grinding clatter in the tranny i think, bump it to 2 and the noise is completely gone! pull it to 1, and there she is again, also in reverse it does this, speed is not a factor, only the specific gears. i had read a thread which mentioned a "sun gear", and also that 1st and R are on the same bands?
I believe it was for a manual tranny that I had read about, but what this could be?! he's got a slight drag on the rear brakes, i assume it's his E-brake, could that have caused a transmission failure? We've removed the driveshaft and checked u-joints and all, nothing there, but when the truck reverses on the ground, you can watch the driveshaft bounce like it's binding. We grease the slip joint while we had it off, and we were able to spin the rear wheels by turning driveshaft w no problem while off the ground.
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A friend of mine has a 2002 Century with a 3100 engine, 65,000 miles. The car has been well cared for, with all regular maintenance performed on time.
The car is losing coolant, the low coolant sensor comes on every few hundred miles. The local garage has added coolant, replaced the coolant sensor , and flushed the entire system. At this point my friend asked me to have a look.
1) Slimey "milkshake" on oil cap. Cleaned & dried it 4 days ago. 100 miles later, it's all slimey again.
2) Rad cap also has slimey gunk on it.
3) Coolant recovery tank is CRUDDY. The walls are all darkened with what I'd assume is oil residue.
Now, before anyone starts saying this is normal with Dexcool, I'll mention that I have a '98 and an '02 Grand Prix with Dexcool, they have 218,000 and 158,000 miles, respectively. My oil caps are bone dry. My coolant caps have only Dexcool on them. And my coolant recovery tanks are so clean they look new.
In seems to me that there is some kind of internal issue, e.g. intake manifold gasket, where the fluids are mixing. FWIW, I don't see any sign of external coolant leakage. Do the 3100s have any known issues in this area? I suggested my friend have the Buick dealer pressure test it (when it's cold), and go from there.
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7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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Just recently, my car 6 speed has started acting up and it's got me worried. First, and most notably, when I go to shift into 4th gear, there is a slight grinding noise and its a little tough to shift into 4th. Once it is in 4th gear, though, it shifts and drives fine with no other grinding noise. A buddy of mine says it might be the synchros, but what that means or how I can fix it.
Also, it has been having a rough idle on startup for a while now. It will idle at around 1,200 RPMs for a bit when I start it up, and it will kind of backfire out the exhaust a bit, kind of like it's a misfiring coilpack or something, but will usually go away after I drive for a bit.
Driving my car right now isn't very fun when I am only worrying about what's wrong with it, so I really want to get it fixed sooner rather than later, before these develop into larger problems.
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Last summer my 04 SantaFe (140,000 mi, automatic) would feel like it was sticking and bumping when backing out of a parking space, then after shifting into Drive it would jerk and then make a huge thunking noise when applying the gas pedal. However, this would only happen sometimes, not all the time, and was not dependent upon the weather, surface, whether it had just been driven or not, etc. It would just happen when it happened. I brought it to the Hyundai garage and they replaced an axle and sensor. I continued having the same problem, brought it back to the garage and they replaced the viscous coupler.
I continued to experience the same problem after that, brought it back to the garage and they had the car for 10 days. I was told they had to get a mechanic in who was familiar working on 04 Santa Fe's and they determined the axle they replaced was bad, so they put in a new one. Everything ran great until I brought the car in early February for an "off balance ceiling fan" noise when accelerating. I brought the car to the Hyundai garage again and had the transfer case replaced.
Now the "clunking/grinding" is back when moving from R to D!!! So I brought it back to the garage again Monday and they said they cannot find anything wrong, and they are convinced it's just a symptom of the age and mileage of the car. However, it happened again today, but worse than ever before. This time it felt like it might not even move from R to D, and then it continued the grinding and bumping after accelerating and then the car felt "sluggish". I am convinced something is really wrong, although they assured me at the garage that the transmission is good, the axle, sensor and boot are all good etc. What else could it be?
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I just had all the plugs and wires replaced on my car. The mechanic said this (MAY) fix the problem.I am still having a problem with the car shifting very hard,and make grinding noise coming from the rear. It sounds like the transmission is falling out! Does it maybe the clutch sensor. I have had it to 2 shops and analyzed, and they have no clue.
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We got the clutch replaced on our 1996 Saturn several weeks ago and ever since we get grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The mechanic said the synch ring was shot and it wasn't their fault...this problem did not exist before the replacement. Whether this sounds plausible and what we can do to rectify i
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I have been doing some research on why my 6sp MT makes a weird almost "Plastic Grinding" noise when shifting from 1st to second on cold days when it sits overnight. It has been getting under 40 degree that last couple days and it seems to go away after just a few minutes of driving. It only happens from 1st to 2nd. I have been told its normal and just because the trans fluid is thicker when cold.
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got a sweet deal on it but only 1 problem with the car. when i shift into 2nd gear there is a grinding noise, however it doesnt grind if i drive super slow... it doesnt really matter if i upshift or downshift into 2nd it will make the noise either way... also the grinding noise is only there WHILE shifting the lever into 2nd gear so its only there for a second, once the lever is shifted into 2nd gear there is no grinding noise at all...not sure if this is related but the clutch pedal also feels very lose just when its about to hits the floor...
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I have a Subaru Baja 2003 with only 48,000 miles. It is a manual transmission.
My question has to do with the clutch (I think). If I am driving with the windows down and have something beside me that reflects noise ( a big hill, a wall, etc.) when I shift from first into second or second into third I sometimes here a "Creek" sort of grinding noise. I do not have to be moving the shift hence why I assuming it is the clutch. The noise is not bad, as I said I can only hear it occasionally and when I am next to something that reflects sound.
My questions are: Is it the clutch? Is it something I should have fixed or should I wait until it gets worse? I am not sure if fixing a clutch is expensive period or if there are some interim steps to a repair that prolongs the clutch and saves money.
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Our 05 Corolla, 160,000 miles, has started making a grinding sound when we upshift into 3rd, unless we let the rpms fall to below 1000. My husband said the clutch needed adjusting, but the dealer said this clutch is not adjustable. The dealer found nothing wrong and could not get the car to make the noise while in the shop. (It did actually get better for a while but got worse again almost immediately after the visit to the dealer.)
Our other car (a Saturn) has over 250K miles on the original clutch, so I don't think it's our driving. What could be wrong, and is this something that needs to be addressed soon lest we damage something irreparably? Also, this car has, since purchase, been nearly impossible to shift on the coldest mornings. Really, sometimes it is all I can do to get the lever in reverse to back out of the drive in winter (in Kansas). Warming up works, but it seems to take an inordinate amount of time before shifting is"normal."
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