Kia - Spectra :: 2002 - Can Idle Air Control Cause A Kick When Shifting?
Aug 13, 2013
So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today. So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out. However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today.
So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out.
However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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My 2002 Standard Kia Spectra. My car had been sitting and undriven for 6 months, after charging the battery and starting the car, I am having trouble shifting to gear. I was able to shift into reverse, with lots of grinding, but getting into 1st gear, I had to shut off the car and shift into gear, then start the car. I test drove around the block and I was able to get it into a few gears, but really had to press on the clutch hard. Although, when I stopped and tried 1st again, i had to shut off the engine to shift.
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I have a 2004 KIA Spectra with an automatic transmission which now has slightly over 100k miles. It has been a very reliable car up until last year when it stopped shifting into third gear. It shifts easily from P to R to N to D, shifting easily to 1st and 2nd, yet when the speed is met to allow changing to 3rd it becomes neutral, slipping only back to second when the speed of the car slows. My question: Is this something electrical or mechanical?
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 74K miles. It was apparently neglected before I bought it (at 55K miles), and has a case of engine sludge. It's clogging my oil control valve, and a couple engine flushes (by Kia dealer) over the last year have failed to correct the problem thus far. The car runs ok, but cannot pass an emissions test due to the check engine light and corresponding codes. Can I perform the flushes myself? What product should I use? Can I safely remove and clean the OCV myself? What product should I use?
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I owned a 2012 Ford Mustang that had a safety issue with the stability control. At random times around 50MPH, the stability control would randomly kick on, cutting throttle and applying the brakes - sometimes with force - causing the car to slow down, shimmy, and sway from side to side. These incidents didn't happen often, but when they did - watch out! Since the dealer couldn't replicate the issue, I decided to take a video of the car performing it's deed (and others have as well. This is by no means limited to just my car). Ford - at the corporate level - basically told me that unless the problem was happening when the dealership was looking at it, they weren't going to do a thing about it. As far as they were concerned, what I was experiencing was perfectly acceptable, and apparently normal.
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2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
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I own a 1987 Plymouth Horizon, 70, 000 miles on it. Long story short, The car sat for 3 years without being driven. It would just be started up whenever the other owners wanted to. I have fixed a lot of its problems, and replaced tires, brakes, hoses, belts etc.. Problem I am having is when itis started up it is at a very high idle and will not allow you to kick it down till it warms up or it idles down on it's own after being warm. I have sprayed carburetor cleaner around the linkage and so on but it still does it. What could be causing it?
Like I said the car sat for 3 years and did have gas in it when I bought it and not being able to drain out the old gas I put HEET gas-line antifreeze & water remover in it. The fuel filter has been changed out twice. Once you get it on the road it runs like a champ for being 24 years old. It's just the high idle when you first start it up. The owner of it had some little quirks I guess you would say. He had and they are still there, two clothes pens on the gas rail/line and they were there because of vapor lock. They are located on two different parts of the line I guess to balance it out. Now I don't know if this is true or how even remotely possible two clothes pens could have anything to work with vapor lock. Now I do know that on occasion it will run a bit and stop when you cut off the engine, though not all the time....
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Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
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2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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My trusty 1994 Ford F150 is starting to show her age, I think. I'm noticing a few issues:
1 - most concerning to me is she jerks pretty hard when shifting through the first few gears during relatively warm weather. The cold snap has abated the issue for now. Had the transmission fluid checked - mechanic said it's fine.
2 - This is a fun electrical issue. I'm driving down the highway when suddenly the cruise control shuts off, as does the speedometer and the digital odometer. The Tach still works, as do the rest of the gauges. Maybe 10 - 15 minutes later, they all come back on. It's done this a couple times.
3# - Really annoying but very minor; when I push down on the foot feed, there's a bit of a squeak in the engine. I'm guessing it's a tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt, but why it would only happen when I give it some gas?
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After I start my Lesabre when cold, after about 15 minutes or so it starts idling high, usually about 1500 , but sometimes it's as high as 2300 while stopped at a light. And a few times it has been 3-4000 rpm after putting it into PARK. After it starts idling high it starts shifting late. If you shut the engine off and immediately restart it, it usually starts idling fine again temporarily. Engine has normal power and runs smooth and idles smooth. It has also randomly died a couple times while driving at 30-40mph but then immediately restarted as if there was no problem.
It has a P0121 code which is "throttle position sensor switch A circuit range/performance problem". It also has a P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) ", which I'm not sure is related to the issue because the check engine light had been on a long time before the idling/shifting issue started happening. Like in the neighborhood of a year and a half before the current issue, but it ran fine the entire time and got 30+mpg on the highway.
First thing I did to troubleshoot was to test the TPS and it seemed ok. Voltmeter readings were .4v with throttle closed and seemed to advance smoothly up to 4.4v at WOT. But, I tested it before the engine was hot and I don't have a Oscope. I then used some carb cleaner and shot it around the injectors and a few vacuum inlets to check for vacuum leaks, to no effect. Engine runs quiet and I don't really hear any vac leaks.
Next, I cleaned the idle air control valve which was pretty dang dirty, but that didn't seem to resolve the issue, although it may have had a slight effect because the issue seems to come and go some while driving now, but I'm not totally sure. I also tested the connector at the IAC and had voltage on all 4 pins between .4v - 11.4v approximately.
Lastly, I got the engine to reproduce the problem and then pulled and then reconnected these sensors one at a time while the engine was idling high:
MAF Sensor
TPS
IAC
Intake Air Temp Sensor
This didn't have the slightest effect on the engine... I'm thinking it might actually be the TPS or IAC but I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing damn near certain it's going to resolve the issue. Could a vehicle speed sensor cause this? How I should proceed from here? :?
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I just bought a 1997 Saturn SL2 5 speed it runs great but when shifting gears the RPM stays high while changing the gears. The man who sold it to us said it's done this ever since he's had it (2yrs) and it also burns oil in between the oil changes. I've been told so much I'm torn what to try and do to fix's the RPM to not stay so high while changing the gears.
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My 2001 Suburban, 1500, 5.3L, 2WD with 164k miles, has a problem with high idle and delayed shifting. The high idle occurs when the vehicle has been driven around for awhile. When I start it up, even when already warm, idle is normal (~600 rpm). After some time, however, it idles at 900 to 1100 rpm. The delayed shifting happens right away--almost like I have the tow/haul mode turned on.
I have cleaned out the idle air port, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the idle air control valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the engine temperature sensor, and unhooked the battery to reset things. It still idles high.
I first noticed this a few weeks ago when the battery died. After I put in the new battery, the idle was very low. So I cleaned out the idle air port and valve. Then it was high. I drove it around for a few days like that and then started replacing stuff, to no avail--still high. I also cleaned around the throttle plate.
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Kia Spectra have a problem with coolant swishing around behind the dashboard? Any permanent repair for this? After having the coolant purged of air, it is quiet for, at best, 2 months.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Durango with 151K on the clock. It looks like it was well taken care of, clean inside and out, and runs/drives nice. I just have 2 "concerns". There are times when the vehicles shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 it "shudders", only does it for a split second, and seems mainly when pulling out on some sort of upgrade, but not always. Otherwise it runs and shifts fine.
The second "concern" is that it seems to surge a little at idle. At a warm idle in park is when I noticed it. It goes from about 750 rpm to 950 rpm over and over. I haven't really noticed if it does it during regular driving.
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