Durango :: 2000 - Shudders On Shifting Gear / Surge A Little At Idle
Jul 2, 2014
I recently purchased a 2000 Durango with 151K on the clock. It looks like it was well taken care of, clean inside and out, and runs/drives nice. I just have 2 "concerns". There are times when the vehicles shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 it "shudders", only does it for a split second, and seems mainly when pulling out on some sort of upgrade, but not always. Otherwise it runs and shifts fine.
The second "concern" is that it seems to surge a little at idle. At a warm idle in park is when I noticed it. It goes from about 750 rpm to 950 rpm over and over. I haven't really noticed if it does it during regular driving.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8cyl., auto transmission with about 211K miles on it.For several months now the car has problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. It goes from first to second without trouble, but to get to third I have to over-rev the engine and then let off the gas and then give it a small bit of extra juice for it to catch the third gear. In the past it seemed to happen only AFTER the engine got hot. Interestingly for the last couple of months it shifted just fine, maybe because it's very cold outside.
Today, the transmission gave me a ton of problems and I was afraid it would give up on me before getting home. It just wouldn't shift into 3rd gear at all. I limped the last 5 miles home in 2nd gear. Checked fluid and that was fine. I added a 1/2 quart. After a few hours I drove the car for short distances at various speeds to force the transmission to shift. At first it seemed to be OK again, but as soon as the engine got hot I ran into the same problem again.
I last changed the fluid 3K miles ago, but before that I drove it for 120K miles without a change. What to look for now or is this a job for a specialist? A neighbor of mine suggested to pour a cup of acetone down the transmission and this would "clean up" and cut through the gum and varnish. I am not so sure this is a good idea, but wonder what it could do to seals and other rubber-type things inside the transmission.
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My 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
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have a 2000 Honda CR-V with a B20Z2 engine and automatic tranny. This Honda has an idle surge that just won't quit!! (surge= rpms rise and fall, repeat) It's really driving me nuts and I need this car to drive for school next week! So far, I've:
-cleaned throttle body
-replaced spark plug wires (plugs are fairly new), distributor rotor, and distributor cap
-bleed coolant
-ECU relearn idle
-adjusted intake and exhaust valves (tight exhaust valves are incredibly common on my engine)
-cleaned out Idle Air Control Valve with Simple Green
-performed vacuum test (with propane, not carb cleaner since it works the same)
-performed compression test (every cylinder checked out)
-replaced throttle body gasket
I've had Check Engine Light misfire codes for a while now, but they pretty much disappeared after the valve job. All that's left is an Idle Air Control System code (P0505). I'm am completely stumped at what to do now. What's more is that white smoke has started pouring out of the tailpipe and it doesn't smell like coolant. At first I thought it was the oil in the cylinders from the compression test, but now I'm not sure. It doesn't really smell like oil or coolant, but it smells like something is burning....
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8 cylinders, with 200K miles. For the last 6 months the transmission is sometimes hesitating shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I have to play with the gas at around 25-2700 rpm before it smoothly shifts into 3rd. Downhill or when accelerating slow it shifts OK. It also seems to shift much better when the weather is cooler and the engine is not hot.
I changed the transmission fluid, filter and speed sensor, but it did not work. While it does not seem like an emergency I like to see what I can do next to fix this problem before it gets worse. What else I should look at?
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I have a 2005 Accent GL (4dr Sedan) base model, 5 speed. I live in Canada (not sure if that will play a part); I notice that when I shift from first to second there is a 'clunk', not really a grind, and not a major clunk... but it's noticeable. As the car warms-up, it seems to be less pronounced (or maybe I start to ignore it). Is this something to worry about? or could it be the clutch plates.
I have had lots of bikes with wet clutches and this is 'normal' for a bike going into first gear. With the bike it's due to what I call Hydrolic-stick ... (2 or more) plates 'sticking' when you let the clutch out, one spinning faster than the other. Off topic now...
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
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I come today for a apparently transmission problem. I have an automatic VW Jetta 2000 2.0 that i bought a few months ago, the car is great, has 250K miles.
The problem is in the morning when car is still cold, the transmission isn't shifting gear until 3K RPM (For 1-2 is about 2.5K RPM, and 2-3 is about 3K RPM). After 5 minutes of driving all back to normality and transmission shift gear about 2.2K to 2.3K RPM.
The question is: this is normal?, what could be wrong?.
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent GT automatic (83,000 km) and I am having a problem with the gear shifting. It's happening more and more.
As I am driving I am pretty sure that it's changing to a higher gear but when I slow down it seems like its not shifting down at all. Coming off the Highway I have to slow down and when I speed back up it seems like its still in the high gear. The RPM's instantly jumps up.
The only way it fixes it self is when I pull over and shut off the car and then start it up again and I am fine. A friend at work said that I may have to have my transmission fluid checked and filled up.
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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I drive a 2002 Accent GL, automatic transmission with only 86,000 on it. For a while now I've been having transmission issues where the car will jerk violently when shifting or starts to rev in certain gear or in park. It also doesn't seem like it knows what gear it wants to be in half the time when I accelerate. Recently, while driving somewhere, it got real worse. It started revving and jumping and redlining and just going crazy while I was driving. I turned the car off and waited a while and turned it back down and it seemed to calm the issue a bit.
But I am afraid to drive right now. It's not the fluid. I've changed it twice in the past two years. Never works. I've seen issues like this on here before. If it IS the transmission needing to be replaced, why so soon with just 86,000 miles on it? And would having the transmission rebuilt be a better choice, cost-wise, but still just as effective?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 120,000 miles on it. Up until a few months ago, its been a great little car. The transmission started acting funny by shifting irregularly and then getting stuck in 3rd gear occasionally. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the tranny is shot. The estimate for the repair is $2000.00.
I just can't see putting that much money into this car. It needs Struts, Shocks and a timing belt. Basically what it needs is what its worth if it were running well.
How hard it is to replace the transmission in this car? I have the 1.6L DOHC with the Automatic transmission.
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My problems started out around the beginning of the year. Mostly, it was the transmission. It would slam really hard when shifting. Worst, sometimes while on the freeway, it would shift on it's own, for no reason, into a lower gear and get stuck. (Happened twice and was really scary).
Along with this, a couple times I would start it up and it would rev really hard, about twice what it normally would.
Usually, with the revving, I could turn it off and back on, and it would stop. A few times I could disconnect the battery, reconnect, and it'd be fine.
As for the tranny, I could turn it off then back on and sometimes that would work. Other times after a few miles it'd work itself out.
I did take it to my local Hyundai dealership. The first few times they couldn't get any code to pop, and they couldn't simulate the issue. It was very random when it'd happen. Luckily, on the 3rd try, they did get the tranny to shift hard. They said it was a bad tranny and replaced it (free due to warranty).
Unfortunately, that hasn't gotten rid of the issue. After a few months... maybe 3K - 4K miles the issue is back. Again, it's very random.
I've had the high revving which I've had to disconnect the battery to resolve. And the tranny is slamming again.
I don't notice any other issues. No engine light (except the one time the engine was revving really high and I had to disconnect the battery to reset, then the light went off).
Sometimes I can go a month with no issues. Sometimes it'll happen back to back days.
Could it be a computer issues? Is that something I can fix/change out as a novice?
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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My grand am has a gnarly idle issue. It stalls to turn on and once on it has a very rough idle. When I put the car into drive it stales then just turns off. Drained the heck out of my battery so I was thinking it was an alternator issue but I did a quick test and my alternator seems to be working fine. I did manage to drive my car but once in motion, gears wouldn't shift which has me leading to thinking it can be a transmission issue.
Specs:
2000 grand am
3.4L V6 SE model
automatic
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The trans in my motor home has made a growling or slight grinding metallic noise after it shifts into 3rd gear. It only does it for maybe 3 seconds and it doesn't seem to affect the operation. Only way I can describe it is that it grinds, and shudders then goes away. I have towed my race car all this year and it has not caused any issues at all. I am planning on driving out west next year and would like to figure out what the deal is before I hit the road. Also if a rebuild was in order what improvements can be made during a rebuild?
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My wifes 2001 Accent at slow speed seems to change into its gears ok. But when at normal driving speed, it seems to hang I believe between 3rd and 4th grar. If you let off the accelerator a little, it will change, kinda hard into gear.
Also, when decelerating, it seems to "surge" when going from 2nd to 1st and almost acts like it wants to die. this is an Automatic Transmission.
Things I have tried: replaced flex exhaust and reset a P0133 error code. Condition still exist after 100+ miles of driving. Tried cleaning MAP/MAF sensor, PCV valve. It will not showing any more codes or check engine light with this current condition. I am at a loss as where to go next for diagnostics. If I just had a code # to work off of....
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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I just got 03 f250 with 6.0 and when shifting has a weird surge/lag thing happening. Reminds me a little of the old 7.3 surge when it was just started on a cold day. Seems to be worse in higher gears.
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