Ford Excursion :: V10 Shudders In Third And Fourth Gear At 1 To 2000 RPMs
Jan 13, 2016
My 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
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I was driving my elantra today, and hit a big pothole. Since then, sometimes when I'm driving in fourth gear (I think), I'll feel a thud, and the rpms will go up a little. Then, when I try to accelerate after a stop, the car won't accelerate normally, like it's still stuck in fourth gear. 2005 Elantra ...
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. I recently have been having issues with the transmission. When I'm in fourth gear, I will sometimes feel a sudden jolt, and then the rpms will go up, and the engine will seem to be working harder and be noisier. When I then come to a stop and then try to accelerate again, the acceleration is very slow, as if the car is still in a high gear. When I turn the car off and then on, the car accelerates fine again. Since then, I have put the car into overdrive off, and haven't had any problems. If the problem is in the fourth gear, could I just use overdrive off consistently and not fix the problem? Could that somehow cause more damage or be bad for the engine? I put about 50 highway miles on the car each day. But I only plan on doing so for the next ten months or so, then I will generally only be using it for short trips around the neighborhood.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Durango with 151K on the clock. It looks like it was well taken care of, clean inside and out, and runs/drives nice. I just have 2 "concerns". There are times when the vehicles shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 it "shudders", only does it for a split second, and seems mainly when pulling out on some sort of upgrade, but not always. Otherwise it runs and shifts fine.
The second "concern" is that it seems to surge a little at idle. At a warm idle in park is when I noticed it. It goes from about 750 rpm to 950 rpm over and over. I haven't really noticed if it does it during regular driving.
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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I posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
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My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
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I have a 2003 excursion... it is a v 10and just yesterday there was a whistling noise. I parked the vehicle and idle it slowly but no noise. I drove it again n the noise was there again. So the noise is there at 2000-2500 rpm. I'm wondering if its my exhaust manifold?? Also I'm starting to loose power. When running and in parked it shut off.
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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I have a Nissan Frontier, 2002, 4 cyl., manual 5 speed transmission. It seem to slip out of fourth gear, and only fourth gear, especially if I try to drive aggressively, or if I try to accelerate from fourth gear. It happens most when I am driving at lower speeds in fourth gear. Also, the colder the morning, the more likely it is to slip. IS this a transmission problem or a clutch problem (or something else), and what needs to be worked on or replaced- i.e. a whole system, or only a select couple of parts?
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At work we bought a 2003 F-250 at an online auction. I was driving it home, and when it shifts into fourth gear, (overdrive) a vibration develops. When I pushed the overdrive lockout on the gear selector and it downshifts to 3rd the vibration pretty much goes away. Turn OD back on and it upshifts and the vibration is back. The transmission seems to shift through all the gears really good / smoothly and is glass smooth when you go from Reverse to Drive. What could this be; fourth gear going out, sticking valve in the tranny, drive shaft off balance? Just not sure where to start on this one.
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So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
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I have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
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I have been getting awful gas mileage lately. I have a 2000 6.8L V10 Excursion, so I wasn't expecting much but it got bad. I know winter weather kills gas mileage but i finally noticed I do not have fifth gear. Fluid is good, clean and not burnt and all other gears hit when they need to, what this could be besides a new tranny.
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I own a 2004 Toyota Celica GTS 4-speed automatic, 24,600 original miles. The car is maybe 11 / 12 years old now. I've noticed that in extremely cold Wisconsin weather it takes a while for my car to shift into fourth gear. It kind of hangs onto third and then eventually shifts into fourth at about 40 - 45 miles per hour. Not sure if that's anything to be alarmed about or not. Drives fine and shifts smooth in warmer weather. I am the second owner. I am going to assume the original owner never changed the transmission fluid, or for that matter, never had a reason to. I purchased the car several years ago. So... is slow shifting enough to change the fluid? Or age of the fluid anything to worry about?
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My husband's 1999 (manual transmission) Honda Accord has suddenly gone from a very reliable vehicle to a very big problem. Last week, he experienced problems while driving in fourth gear going up hill at around 45 MPH. The car essentially stopped pulling him up the hill, so he went into third, and got nothing, then second, and got nothing. It took a few tries to re-start the car, which then started idling at lower-than-usual RPM's.
He revved the engine a bit, gave it a test drive, and was able to get to his destination without any more problems. The next day, at about the same place in the road, he experienced something similar, but this time, he revved the engine to increase the RPM's while in fourth gear and was able to make it through without any stalls. This morning, however, his car did not start. The engine will turn over, but it is not engaging. It does not seem to be an electrical problem, since the engine is turning over. No warning or "check engine" lights have come on at this point.
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Got our 2014 back in March and it still hangs in fourth gear after downshifting with the cruise on. Downshifting from 6th to 5th for small hills is fine but on steeper hills when it drops to 4th and hangs in there uncomfortably long.
What I've been doing is switching over to manual and bumping it up to 5th and then 6th. When I don't, it will hang in 4th and rev high and then eventually shift into 5th and 6th one right after the other long after the road has leveled out..
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
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I have a 2000 v10 excursion and once in a while when I shift from park to drive it will stall and lunge forward. It will stay running if I go to neutral but as soon as it goes into drive it will stall and also reverse seems to work sooner than drive will come back I have been stalled and had to put it in reverse and pull to the shoulder.
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I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
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