Ford - Explorer :: 2002 V6 2 Wheel Drive Will Just Shut Off / Engine Shudders And RPMs Drop
Apr 29, 2016
I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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95 explorer 4.0l ohv. I go to take off and then come to a stop after about 10-15 feet, i just give it a little gas then lightly press the brake, rpm's drop to around 400-500 then back to normal. I have replaced:
IAC
MAF
Plugs & wires
Coil pack
intake manifold gaskets
fuel system cleaner
fuel filter
air filter
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Yesterday I noticed when I pushed the 4x4 high and the 4x4 low button nothing happened, there was no light indicator coming on at the dash, and also there was no differece in gears when 4x4 low was selected, is there an easy fix to this like possible a fuse blown?
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I own a 2001 Ford Explorer and have had the regular wear and tear but this problem has me stumped. A few months back I had to change the auto body gasket because the truck would not go into gear. After doing this the truck ran fine, I also changed the tranny fuild and filter. The other day i went to back up into the garage and the truck stalled and died out. it started right back up and it runs fine in all other gears. (P,N, D, 1,2, 4x4 high and low) and the over drive is working fine. when the truck is cool and hasn't ran in a while i can start it and the rpms stay at about 1000 th 1200 and the reverse works great. Now when the eng. heats up to normal and i put in in reverse the rpms drop to about 4 to 500 and it stalls out and dies. I have cleaned the mass air flow sensor, the throttle body, and the IAC valve but still dying out. Im thinking it may be a vaccume leak or the IAC is bad and cleaning just wont do the trick. I have also read that it may be the back up light wiring that hooks to the tranny may be shorted out.
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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After the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
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I'll start by saying that I've only had my car for a month ... 2002 taurus i have replaced the computer on it so i went on by giving it a full tune up . 3.0 v6 with 91,000 on it . so i noticed it yesterday when i turn on the heat or defrost for the windshield that the R.P.M drops from 1000 down to 500 or 600 R.P.M but only in park . i can put it in drive or reverse and it's fine. a/c compressor does engage and it works fine .
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I'll start by saying that I've only had it for a month ... 2002 taurus... I have replaced the computer on it so i went on by giving it a full tune up . 3.0 v6 with 91,000 on it . So I noticed it yesterday when I turn on the heat or defrost for the windshield that the RPM drops from 1000 down to 500 or 600 RPM but only in park . I can put it in drive or reverse and it's fine. AC compressor does engage and it works fine...
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I'm in the military overseas and having a starting problem with my 2006 Ford Five Hundred. When the weather is cold, around 45 degrees F or lower the car starts OK however within about a second the RPM's drop between 400 and 500 and the engine starts to stumble. After about 3 to 4 seconds the RPM's gradually increase to around 1300-1400 RPM and is OK at that point.
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Twice now this has happened to me and I'm concerned it will become worse if I don't fix it. Driving down the road my engine has disengaged. By this I mean the vehicle both times has been at 55 MPH, my foot on the throttle rpms riding around 1300 revolutions, and the engine disengages rpms drop below idle and my "wait to start" light comes on. This both times lasts approximately 2 seconds and throttle reengages while still traveling 55 MPH, "wait to start" light goes off and its like it never happened. What's going on with my truck? Ford diesel 97 250 7.3 ...
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2002 Ford Explorer Sport .. Just started last evening when I returned home .. Closing lights low beam ( yellow & rear tail light ) did not shut .. Bell sounding .. Not dealing with it last night disconnected ground cable off battery ..
This morning took a look .. Connected ground cable too battery. Expecting low beam lights too go on. Did not .
Turning lights on & off. Head lights work fine. yellow and rear stay lit ..
Disconnected battery, OFF .. Reconnected battery cable yellow light stays off until I turn on head lights, and will not shut off from switch .. Thinking light switch ?
Could a burned out fuse in another fuse cavity cause this effect? How can I test ??
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Is there a way to disable the auto 4 wheel drive on a 98 Explorer for testing purposes? I believe there is a module but can't remember where it's located and I don't know if it can be temporarily disabled.
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My problem is that my explorer, 130,000 miles will not engage in any gear while in 2 wheel drive or 4H. Truck will only engage in 4L. And when it does engage in 4L it hesitates and jumps into gear, especially drive. Also takes some doing to get it out of 4L. While truck is in 2 wheel and in drive, my speedometer reads about 20 mph with truck not moving. It does not do it in reverse. Also gears will grind when I attempt to put vehicle back in park because of it registering that I'm doing 20. Dropped pan and changed tranny fluid and filter. No change. Also not hearing transfer case engaging while I shift between auto, 4H and 4L. Really need this truck fixed ASAP, and need to do repairs myself.
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I have a weird issue with my 2002 4x2 manual Nissan Xterra...when I drive along (usually happens when I'm in 3rd or 4th gear), and depress the clutch pedal to start slowing down for traffic, while the gear lever is still in the 3rd or 4th gear position, the rpms start coming down as the car coasts, but then a strange grinding/whirring/grumbling noise starts happening. The noise immediately goes away if I pull the gear lever into neutral, OR if I re-engage the clutch to start accelerating again. So, it only happens when BOTH the clutch pedal is depressed, AND the gear lever is "in gear". What could this be? The car has about 115K miles, but I believe the previous owner changed the clutch recently (80-90K), and the clutch itself feels fine.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and besides the seemingly oh-so-common annoying crack in the tail gate, I have another issue I consider to be major. Recently, on a short trip to the store, I hit an incline in the road of a slight degree. At this point I noticed the RPMs going wildly up and down and ultimately the truck died. I tested this out on a few drives and what I've noticed is that if I'm on a flat surface, the truck seems to be okay. OR if I do hit an incline, either lifting of the gas or powering through it seems to work...although neither of which is a long-term solution. I just lost my job a couple weeks ago and the idea of taking it to a mechanic scares me as I'm very limited on savings. I don't really know where to start.
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Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
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So my Push Button 4 wheel drive wont engage. The light on the dash wont light up and it doesn't shift into 4x4. Where to start? I would like to check the simple stuff first. O and my heat only gets hot when im giving the vehicle gas. This is all on a 2003 Ford Explorer.
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My 4.65L V8 Explorer has an issue in low gear - RPMS rev high but car doesn't shift up.. eventually "catches" with a jerk but the OD Light started flashing and the Systems Screen reads Check Transmission. Light goes out and message goes away after turning car off and restarting. Had one Tech look at it - he said second gear is toast and need full transmission rebuild. Another Ford Tech looked and could just be solenoid needing replacement and advised to have a transmission service (not a flush) done....
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Alright so a friend of mine has a Ford Explore with the little switch on the dash for auto 4 wheel, high 4 wheel, and low 4 wheel. When it is in Auto it has no issues drives fine and good. As soon as you turn it to 4 wheels high and start to go all you get is a loud clunking noise constantly. Another friend had a similair issue with an AWD explorer that we just pulled the front drive shaft and it seemed to solve the issue. How would I test the driveshaft to see if that's the issue.
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It's a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test well. Tested plug c1048 wires with the digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the EPC solenoid bad or is it pcm? I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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Its a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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