Ford :: 1997 - Engine Disengages RPMs Drop Below Idle
May 25, 2013
Twice now this has happened to me and I'm concerned it will become worse if I don't fix it. Driving down the road my engine has disengaged. By this I mean the vehicle both times has been at 55 MPH, my foot on the throttle rpms riding around 1300 revolutions, and the engine disengages rpms drop below idle and my "wait to start" light comes on. This both times lasts approximately 2 seconds and throttle reengages while still traveling 55 MPH, "wait to start" light goes off and its like it never happened. What's going on with my truck? Ford diesel 97 250 7.3 ...
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1997 Audi A4 that has been acting a little bit strange lately. When it is started up and left to idle all of a sudden the RPMs drop from around 600-800 to 100-200 sometimes rebounding back up and sometimes the car just dies. This also is happening while I am driving and stopped at a stop light for a short time. It will idle fine then suddenly drop RPMs and if I don't give it any gas then the car usually dies. I have just had some work done on it to try and fix this problem thinking it was the air flow sensor (or something like that) but apparently that is not the case.
View 2 Replies
1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
View 2 Replies
Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 Replies
Two weeks ago Sun, truck ran fine, however Mon morning all hell broke loose. Truck was running very sluggish and stalling while coming to a stop. My first thought was tune up. I replaced the plugs and wires. During this I found that i could not get a socket around the ever loved driver side rear plug so i was only able to replace 7 plugs however in that process i managed to break the metal coolant tube that runs to the heater core.
Aday later replaced the entire intake manifold,egr valve, egr tube, IAC valve, both coil packs, fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter. During the removal of the intake i looked at the rear spark plug and found that a screw had been wedged into the hole breaking the plug and got it changed now it is all back together and the truck runs amazing however did not solve the low rpms during stopping. ive replace the above and checked fuel pressure which is good.
I have a TPS sensor just haven't installed it yet not sure if it is related to the issue. Tranny guy says it may be a bad solenoid or TC however last night I reset the PCM and drove it it ran flawless. this morning the problem returned which leads me to believe its not the tranny. ok one last kicker that 6 experts have failed to answer when i manually put the truck into 2nd gear the engine dies! no studder no fighting just quits.
Truck is a 98 F150 4.6 V8 186,000 miles i have yet to
1) change TPS.
2) clean throttle body.
3) clean MAF sensor. n
Not sure if any of this has an effect on the issue. There is only a EGR insufficient Air flow code..
View 14 Replies
1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
View 7 Replies
So I know there has been lots of posts on surging issues and how to troubleshoot. My truck is a 97 f150 4x4 xlt 4.6l v8. I have noticing surging and dropping in my RPMs lately. No CEL. I have kept a journal when I notice when it happens. I only have issues when I am driving around 40-50 mph and if I go over bumps/pot holes/rough spots in roads or when I'm braking over bumps/pot holes/rough spots, my truck surges/RPMs drop CEL flashes on and off only during these instances. Makes me think something could be loose or something causing this. It has stalled at times when having to brake fast (yellow light, etc.). Where to look first? 1997 F150 4x4 4.6 V8...
View 1 Replies
I have a 1997 forkd F150 with a 4.6L Romeo engine. I have recently rebuilt the engine and now since it is put back together I am having a issues that i cannot pin point. When the truck is running and in gear my RPM drop to around 500 or below and my oil pressure drops and comes back up when the rpm's come back up this an intermittent problem and I have replaced the IAC valve and every once in a while i get a P0401 code for the exhaust recirculation. I think I am loosing some kind of vacuum. It was not doing this when I tore into the truck. It seems to be running okay not hesitation.
View 2 Replies
My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
View 14 Replies
Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
View 2 Replies
I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
View 2 Replies
As listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
View 12 Replies
I'm in the military overseas and having a starting problem with my 2006 Ford Five Hundred. When the weather is cold, around 45 degrees F or lower the car starts OK however within about a second the RPM's drop between 400 and 500 and the engine starts to stumble. After about 3 to 4 seconds the RPM's gradually increase to around 1300-1400 RPM and is OK at that point.
View 5 Replies
I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 with 100k. Every so often the RPMs will drop by 500-1000 or so for a second and then come back up to normal. This happens both when stopped at a light and while accelerating, and doesn't seem to happen predictably. I've already changed the filters and cleaned out the IAC, without any success. I've sprayed the obvious connection points in hopes of locating a potential vacuum leak, also without any luck. Other ways to locate a potential vacuum leak that wouldn't be overly time-intensive?
View 7 Replies
I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 F150 with the 4.6 engine. I get an intermittent drop in the idle from 700 RPM to about 500 RPM. The computer catches it quickly and brings the idle back up. It might drop several times and clear up or it might not happen at all. Seems only to happen on a hot engine, never when cold and in gear, if in park or neutral seems to idle ok. Changed the idle air control valve but no different. Runs fine except for the idle dropping when stopped.
Never get a check engine light, and no codes from the computer when I had it checked. Could this be the vapor management valve turning on?
View 8 Replies
Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
View 19 Replies
I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
View 6 Replies
I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
View 14 Replies
1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
View 9 Replies
95 explorer 4.0l ohv. I go to take off and then come to a stop after about 10-15 feet, i just give it a little gas then lightly press the brake, rpm's drop to around 400-500 then back to normal. I have replaced:
IAC
MAF
Plugs & wires
Coil pack
intake manifold gaskets
fuel system cleaner
fuel filter
air filter
View 3 Replies
