Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Stay Idle Kick Into Gear And Jump Start - O/D Light Flashing?
Jun 30, 2012
I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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It's a 2002 explorer, 4.0, 5R55W trans, all was fine then O/D light starts flashing, so I limp it home. Trans isn't slipping, every gear works, it does kinda bang into 4th but is otherwise normal. Took it to auto zone to have the code read, but no codes found. Disconnected battery to see if it just needed a reset maybe, let it sit for a few hours, reconnect, OD light still flashes. Borrow a different OBD2 tester, still shows no codes, still drives the same just bangs into 4th. I've read up on the solenoid pack replacement, just kind hesitant as I feel like I'm guessing at the problem and might be throwing money away.
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In the last month or so, my Phaeton started to 'kick - jump' when it shifts between 2nd and 3rd gears. It mostly happens during downshifting below 10mph, close to stopping (the car is hot/cold; sport/regular mode - no difference) It sometimes does it during up-shifting. What may have been causing it?
I took the car for service last week, after talking VW techs service manager suggested to replace the 'Mechatronics (?)' in the transmission and have already ordered the part. I am wondering if this is a major work, and I am a bit worried if they can put my car together the way it is.
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I have a 2004 f150 with an edge programmer. My transmission will only stay in 3rd gear, the overdrive light is flashing, and it is giving these dtc's: p0720, P0722, P0731, P0732, P2106.... What is going on?
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I jump started my santafe becouse the battery was weak. After it started the check engine light on the dashboard came on and it stays on. What could the problem be.
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Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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Was driving into town today in my 96 Ford Explorer XLT v6 4wd, when I noticed my O/D off light flashing. I thought to myself, "Another problem I have to bash at with a wrench to get going again." I figured that meant I'd be stuck with gear 1 and would burn some extra gas on the ride home, but after parking and running an errand, woe behold me but my car won't start! The starter turns, but no other noises come out of my now very-large paperweight. I've tried shifting into neutral, moving the car to get the gearbox turning, starting the car in neutral and park, yet the stubborn car remains dead. Am I drawing a connection between the light and the failure to start where one need not exist?
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The air bag lite is flashing 3-3 when you start up the truck. After several 33 codes it stays on constantly. I look up on internet and 33 is "passenger air bag open circuit". Pulled the glove box door and disconnected the wires and wiggled and reattached, still have code.
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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My 2000 Explorer overheated and I had water pump and intake manifold replaced.. then it had a freeze plug rust out and its replaced, I'm holding water.. but now it just wont start.. we've tried everything from changing fuel injectors, fuel delivery unit on intake, now the fuel pump is changed.. still wont start and the theft light is flashing fast.. my dad changed computers while I was out of town,, is it the theft device or does the computer need coded for this explorer?? we have taken negative off battery but nothing.. And if I change the motor will that work or still not run because of theft light or computer??
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My 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
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How to reset the Anti Theft on my explorer? The light is flashing fast and the engine won't start. Without the anti theft being reset the truck won't start. Been checking around to find an answer but can't find one...
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
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My alarm and lights started going off one night. By the time I got to it, everything stopped. When I tried to start the next morning, I got nothing. After several tries, horn and lights started again. The only way to stop it was to disconnect battery.
One person told me that it was the key or the ignition not recognizing the key. I was then told that my truck, 97 f150, had no chip in the key so the problem was the computer.
I replaced my computer with a refurbished one. Once I hooked up the battery, the horn was still going, lights flashing and theft light still blinking. Also, not sure if its related, but when I try to use the key in the passenger door it turns, but there is very little resistance and the door does not unlock.
1997 F150
4.6L V8
4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
235,000 Miles
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The brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
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01 F150. Cranks but no start, will fire with starter fluid spray. Theft light fast flash, Check engine light on. Only have one key and don't know what the kid that had owned has done.
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A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
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While driving at highway speeds the "n" light on the gear shift starts flashing. This indicates that the automatic transmission is overheating, and that I should pull over to let it cool per the owners manual and a sticker on the drivers door. Which I do - I let it sit for about 5 mins and its ready to go again. However, this is inconvenient and has happened on numerous occasions. I have search all over the internet for a solution, and the only thing that seems to be the solution is to get a bigger pan?
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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I just bought a 99 explorer sport and the abs and air bag lite stays on. I ran a OBD test and no codes came up.
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