Just finished setting up a new HU! Next step is setting up my amp and subwoofer. I already ran the RCA and Remote Wire cables when I hooked up the Head Unit. I don't know where to run the power cable through the firewall?!
View 4 RepliesTrunk won't close. Car has 101000 miles, new struts last year as well as belts and hoses.
View 8 RepliesI am able to open the trunk with remote but not from latch inside or key! Whats the diagnosis and fix?
View 8 RepliesI'm no pro but I've installed and uninstalled a good amount of systems in my time. Working on my new (to me) LS is like no other car I've had. The thing is built like a tank.
Usually, running the power into the trunk is the easiest part. Snap up the bottom part of the back seat and then a few bolts to remove the upper part of the back seat and your basically IN the trunk.
Not on the LS...best way to get this from the back seat into the trunk?
How to activate the power trunk release on a 2012 Camry L series? My car came with dealer remotes that don't have a button for the rear trunk lock which I saw is in the vehicle when I added the trunk spoiler. It would be nice not to have to open the DS door and pull the trunk release lever to open the trunk all the time....
View 5 RepliesI have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
I am installing a wiring harness in my 2007 Camry SE so that I can tow a small flatbed utility trailer I have to carry my kayak on trips. I have the wiring harness all installed except for I now have to route the power cable for the harness from the trunk to the battery in the front of the car. The instructions give no suggestions on how to get the wire to the battery other than to avoid hot parts and suspension parts.
What would be the best and easiest way to get the wire to the front? I'm not well versed in car mechanics or how to take things apart so I would prefer the easiest, most direct way if there is one.
I have already found a grommet in the trunk with a factory wire harness going through it to the bottom of the car so I can route my wire through there, but after that where to go next. The only thing I can think of is there is several brackets holding the 2 fuel lines and the 2 rear brake lines, there is a open spot between the 2 fuel lines so I could use the empty spot in those brackets to hold the wire for most of the way to the front, do fuel lines get hot at all? Do you think it would be safe to route the wire that way?
As for getting into the engine compartment, how to do that without getting in the way of the front suspension while keeping the wire away from the transmission and axles.
If this is too complicated to do myself, my dad has a friend who is a electrician and likes to restore cars that could do it for me but he is almost always busy, thus hard to get a hold of and I like to try and learn some things about my car and do as much as I can on my own.
This is the trailer light wiring harness I have, there is a link for the instruction manual there too
[URL]
I have a 2002 camry that stalls out while driving. The car stalls when engine is warmed up and the car is running at appropriate temperature. When this occurs no "check engine lights" stay on and the car re-starts after 15-20 minutes and runs just fine. I had the car looked at by a Toyota dealer and another independent shop and they where unable to pull any codes from the computer module. The car is up to schedule with routine maintenance items. The car is garage kept and I go to the same gas station each fill up.
View 2 RepliesMy wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
This is a 2002 4 Cylinder Camry XLE.It gets cold when running down the highway, but at a stop , AC gets warm.I have replace the cabin filer. A couple of years ago, replaced the AC MAG Clutch Relay, when AC light was blinking.But now I feel the condenser in front of the radiator and it feels very hot, and the fans never seem to come on.I can see the 3 Fan relays, and not sure where the ECT sensor is located, or whether that would be the problem.If the fans arent coming on at all, you would think the car would overheat?
Tested the motor on one of the two, with direct 12 volts to it, and it did not run.Tested the disconnected cable that would be supplying voltage to that motor and it read 13+ volts. So I would think it was a bad motor, but I would like to see the voltage on that disconnected motor go to zero, but not sure if that happens, or when?Guy suggested at parts place that sells the Two Motors, Fans, and Shield all as one unit for less than $100, that maybe the motor burned out because it was running all the time.
WHen should the electric motors not be receiving power?I read somewhere that when car starts that both are on low speed, and Always on when AC is on. But do one or both ever turn off? If I pull this shroud out with the two motors and buy the replacement, I just don't want to have the motor blow out, because there is something making it run all of the time.
Our 2002 LE Camry master-cylinder reservoir is loose, at least with the engine not running. Is this normal? It moves about 1/4", side-to-side. With the engine running, the pedal almost goes to the floor, but I've been told that's normal. I'm not sure that it is, but my wife seems to get by with it that way. Our engine is 4cyl.
View 4 Replies2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
My Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
I have a 2002 monte carlo, driving on the road it stopped running, wouldn't start, when i got it home it started but missing bad, I replaced the plugs and coils, didn't stop, tho one seemed to make it a little better, strangely I have noticed the power brakes don't work anymore, very stiff like standard, so may be connected as happened at the same time, searched for a vacuum line off, don't see one......
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
I have a 2004 545i and while the car is parked and not running the Trunk will open by itself. Its happened about 4-5 times in the past 6 months. I took it back to the dealer, they replaced some parts and said they have never heard of the problem. Since then it has happened two more times.
View 4 RepliesIt seems like you can't... It can't be unlocked if you have keyless entry so long as the car is running... Why? Any way around this?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2014.5 Camry SE 4CYL 29K . Lately the car has been running so sluggish, it almost seems like it has lost power. Acceleration from stop or while driving seems to be a burden almost like if i was towing a boat. I have 5k since since my last oil change, and have the KNN drop-in air filter, so dirty air filter is not the problem. Not to forget that I always pump 91 octane from chevron. Why this would be?? ( should i have them change the spark plugs?) or could this be due to the transmission?
View 14 RepliesI have a mostly stock '02 F-250.
The other day I parked the truck and as I was walking away I could hear what sounded like the 4x4 clicking on and off. I wasn't sure. I figured I would continue to run the truck to get more symptoms and come up with a diagnosis.
Later, backing out of the driveway, I heard what sounded like a buzzing/grinding noise, like something was trying to engage. It quickly went away.
The next day, the 4x4 light came on as I merged onto the interstate. I pulled over, tried switching the ESOF switch to get it to turn off. I never heard 4x4 engage or "felt" it. Re-starting the truck got the light to turn off. It hasn't been on since.
Today the truck made more buzzing/grinding noises. When I tried turning on 4 high with the ESOF switch I got no response. It went into 4 low and the light came on.
I re-started the truck. Tried putting it into 4 high again and the light came on. When I put it into 4 low the light quit and wouldn't come back on.
I run with my hubs unlocked and they were unlocked at the time, FYI. Also, I have air coming out of the vents, so no vacuum issues. I actually disconnected the 4x4 vacuum lines because I don't use the automatic locking future anyways.
I did do some work with my truck and boat during the flood in Louisiana and I took her through really sketchy stuff. My guess is that the ESOF motor is shot, most likely from being submerged.
I have a 2003 MCV36R Camry SPortivo, Australian spec. Have owned it for 12 months. Have had power issues.
Replaced:
plugs
fuel filter
O2 sensors (engine)
MAF sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Have checker EGR valve - all looks good
Have coded OBD II, no codes coming up
Current issues are:
Flat spots from 1000rpm to approx 3000 rpm (esp on gear change from 1st to second)
Once flat spot stop, it powers up enough to throw you back in your seat.
Also, rough running when sitting on constant speed, esp bad between 65-85 Km/h.
Have recently done a 800km trip. half way through, isolated the EGR valve. Running probs have improved greatly, but still lacks power.
7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?