Camry :: 2004 - Vibration During Braking Repeatedly
Oct 6, 2013
Fairly early (maybe 50k miles) my '04 Camry 4cyl began developing a vibration during braking that suggested a warped disk . It got progressively worse until it was very severe. So, even though the pads had plenty of life left, I changed the front rotors and pads at about 80k miles. This cleared up the vibration for a little more that 20k miles, but now at 105k miles on the car the braking vibration has returned. It's not bad yet but I can feel it progressing. Why would a warped disk problem return so soon after replacing both front rotors and pads to cure this very problem?
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I have a 2006 Camry 4 cylinder that I turned the rotors on all four wheels and replaced all the brake pads on all four wheels with ceramic pads. I did this a year or two ago.
Now this doesn't happen every time you brake but sometimes you will get a vibration in the steering wheel when braking.
When I had the rotors turned at O'Reillys they said they were too thin. So I had them bring out a new one and that one was too thin as well according to whatever specs they were using. So they turned my old ones.
And the car doesn't pull to either side when braking. There are not grooves in the rotors and it doesn't make any screeching when braking. I did notice that there is a ridge on the edge of the rotor when you run your finger across it from the inside to the outside of the rim of it. My guess the rotors are warped.
And if the rotors need to be replaced is this rotor better than the stock ones and thicker? [URL] ....
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I bought this car new around 6,000 miles the dealer machine the rotors (front only) do to a vibration when I was braking to make a long story short I took the car to 4 different mechanics including 2 toyota dealership. The car vibrates at 65mph they did 2 alignments, I got new tires, balanced the tires like 10 times by different mechanics, got new rims and tires, check all the suspension parts and the car still shakes I don't know what to do next........my next step is changing the rotors and brakes on the front and see what happens... Because the shaking start after they machine the rotors.
2011 Toyota Camry LE
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It all started around 18,000 miles when I noticed a vibration under highway braking. I convinced myself that everything was fine for the time being and I would have the dealer inspect the brakes at my 20,000 service. Fast forward to the service and all four of my rotors were warped. The dealer turned them all and said I wouldn't have any more problems. The car sits at 28,500 miles now and I'm starting to get the same vibration sensation as I had at 18,000 miles. I'm definitely going to be bringing the car in for it's 30,000 mile service and I will bring up the issue again. What type of warranty is on the brakes as I hope they will replace the rotors this time.
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I have an 03 Camry LE I4 with about just under 100k miles. Recently, under semi hard braking at highway speeds, the steering wheel will shake quite a bit to the point that I don't feel safe braking hard. I initially thought the brake rotors were warped, but those were replaced less than 2 years ago somewhere around 80k miles. I've taken it to many shops and here are the verdicts they've given me:
1. Rear drums are warped which is the problem (I don't think so...)
2. Control arm bushings need replacement (coming from shop who did brake work before)
3. Ball joints need to be replaced
4. All rotors should be resurfaced
What should I do?
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2004 GC, 6 cyc, 2wd. Had TERRIBLE noise & vibration when braking but problem was intermittent, no codes generated. Everybody suspected ABS problem. New pads, new rotors, new ABS module no luck. Frequency increased but severity decreased. Technician finally experienced one occurrence, identified & replaced a weak steering stabilizer. Problem has surfaced again but not so severe and appears to be increasing in frequency.
My best description is when braking from 45-50 mph, Vibration & noise begins at about 35 mph, increasing in intensity until about 18-20 mph then stops. Seems to me that the transmission downshifts and the noise stops. AMCO suggested a cracked flywheel or loose bolts on the torch converter. Also the engine idles at 1100-1200 rpm on start-up then goes to 850 rpm - will not go lower. Does this sound like a transmission problem? The transmission was rebuilt/replaced at about 94,000 miles and the problem started at about 111,000 miles.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Ford F-150 (5.4l RWD). I was fully aware of a problem with the brake rotors when I bought the truck from a dealership. They supposedly changed the rotors and the rotors appear to be new...But every time I brake the truck almost flutters in the front end. I haven't noticed vibration while on the highway, only when braking. I am worried because I can fix it I just cant seem to figure out what the problem is.
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I have a 09 camry 2.4. I have a problem with it starting about 5 times a year. It will start and shut back off and just keep doing this or just crank over. Then if we let it sit for about 15 minutes it will start and be fine for months. It's been doing this about 2 years. It has about 104,000 miles on it and there has never been any lights come on like the check engine light.
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape that seems to have developed an appetite for one of its O2 sensors, about 1 a month for the past 3 months. Specifically Bank 1 Sensor 2. That is this the downstream sensor for cylinders closest to the firewall. I have replaced the sensor twice and the last sensor just popped the code to let me know it's passed on. The code is P0136 is the code that has popped every time. The live data shows a flat 0.0 off of the sensor.
So before I replace another sensor, what would cause the same sensor to die 3 times in a 3 month time period?
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I've had this happen twice: I'm stopped at a light (on relatively level ground--only slight incline). My gas engine kicks off. OK, fine. As it should. But then it comes on again, maybe a second or two or maybe three or four later, while I'm still stopped. First time, it did this a few times back and forth, all while stopped, waiting for the light.
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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I've got a 2008 GX470 with 38K miles. My problem is that the driver's side front turn signal has quit now for the fifth time! The first 3 times, the dealer's shop said that it was a loose bulb, the was some grit in the socket (which there should not be), etc. The fourth time they replaced the wiring harness. Yesterday, the bulb went out for the fifth time. This is occurring every 4-6K miles. I use my vehicle exclusively on city/highway driving. No off/rough road at all.
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I've made a video of the pumping sound in that seems to get "stuck on" repeatedly at occasional times while the car is in operation or at idle. What it is and if it should not be going on like this without stopping? The car is a 2004 Canadian model, assuming it has the coolant thermos.
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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It took me a while to realize it, but my Phaeton vibrates as it rolls. My wife and friend only noticed it when I called their attention to it, but I've come to pick up on it every time I drive the car, as shortly as a few blocks away from home, from about 30 MPH and upwards.
How do I know? Well, we have two other cars, including a Touareg and a smart, and those two sure do not vibrate the way the Phaeton does! My wife and I just pick up whatever car, so I am likely to drive two or three cars on any given week. I've tried to ignore it, but to me, every time I pick up the Phaeton, it is very bothersome to me.
I've put new tires on the car, had them "force balanced", the computer scores came out great, and the alignment technician at the VW dealership said he can't feel the car vibrate while we rode together. The rims are good and straight. But it clearly does vibrate.
By the way, the front suspension shudders very un-German-like in potholes. I speculate it is related. But I am dreading taking the car to the VW dealer service technician and have him come back that the car is fine.
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I have a 99 Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2L OHV engine, and I've been dealing with vibration when braking, especially at highway speeds. I just had it in for service and my mechanic replaced a warped front rotor and said that was the problem. It's better now than it was, but I'm still getting some vibration.
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Yesterday when I was on my way to a funeral, I noticed that whenever I braked kind of hard there would be a lot of noise and vibration on my car. The noise seemed to be coming from the front passenger side of the car and seemed to pull to the right a bit. I pulled over and took a look and everything looked fine but the sound and vibration was still there.
I drove about 10-15 minutes tops like this, parked the car, did the funeral home service, and 2 hours later while driving to the burial site (about 20 minute drive on the streets and freeway), everything felt fine. No vibration, no noise, nothing.
After the burial site I drove another 15 minutes to my parents house but this time you could hear the sound faintly and only when I braked hard. I jacked up the car and took off all the tires to take a look at the brakes/rotors and everything looked ok. I had plenty of pad left and the rotors seemed fine. With the tires on, I am able to spin the tires with my hands no problem.
This morning I drove to work and had no issues at all. No sound, no vibration, nothing. So at this point, I am stumped at what could have caused the noise and vibration earlier yesterday morning.
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My 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
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Noticing excessive vibration when braking after 50-60 mph speeds.
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Need to diagnose what I assume is a brake problem. On track, first lap is fine. Second lap start to get a vibration under braking. By the third lap the car is shuddering horrible under braking. Let the car cool for 5 minutes and it's back to the same pattern. Car is fine on the street - no vibration. StopTech slotted rotors and EBC Yellow pads. Rotors and pads have one track day on them and a few thousand commuting miles. My OEM rotors with the same brand pads lasted 4-5 track days and 30k miles.
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My wife has an Acura, and when braking at higher speeds, she is getting a really bad "vibration". I am assuming the rotors are warped. We had both axles (rotors/pads) done last year (about 40k ago) at Midas. After they did them, we had to take the car back about 3 times for squeaky pads, and I swear a slight vibration, but they didn't fix them. Anyway, even though they offer "lifetime pads," I refuse to go back there.
So, her pads now started squeaking again. We were dealing with the warped rotors until we had some extra money and time to take it in. At this point, I am wondering where I should take it. I have no clue if the pads are good, and I'm guessing the rotors just need to be turned since they were just put on last brake job.
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