Camry :: 2006 SE Engine Smooth But Dash Rattle At Idle
Sep 29, 2012
I recently purchased a 2006 SE with 4 cylinder/at combo. Engine is silky smooth, but I have a rattle that I think is coming from behind the driver instruments or against the fire wall where the brake m/c is. This only occurs when the engine is in gear, mainly with a/c on, & the idle drops to 600-700 rpm range. Like if I am sitting at a red light for more than a minute or two. If I put the tranny in neutral, cut the a/c off, or step on gas to raise the idle speed the rattle goes away. It's definitely rpm dependent.
It's not the a/c, because I have been able to repeat the issue with the a/c off. I did notice that on the back of the air filter box, there are several plastic components attached but what they do. Is there anyway to increase idle speed?
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I have a 2006 Ford 150 with about 120,000 miles on it... For almost 9 months now I've had a really rough idle and I can't seem to get it to smooth out. I've tried new plugs, tune up, new fuel filter, higher octane gas, fuel injector cleaner, octane booster, cleaned my mass air flow sensor and nothing works... I've checked the trucks ECM for any codes but it comes up clean every time...
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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I recently became the proud owner of a 2004 Camry, 2.4L, AT. Since gas(petrol) prices are touching the sky in this part of the world, I got it converted to CNG(Natural gas) promptly. After 3 days of smooth driving on natural gas, I got the dreaded Check Engine Light. The error code being thrown up is P1135 and upon reset is comes back again almost instantly.
Since this happened after 3 days of running smoothly on CNG, the kit installer is feigning ignorance. Moreover, the light stays on even on petrol mode. None of the original fittings were disturbed by the CNG installer but one of the oxygen sensor wires was stripped(not cut) and attached with another wire which provides input to the CNG kit. This wire was promptly disconnected by the installer to prove that it has nothing to do with the CNG installation, and the CEL still comes on.
While I do understand that the o2 sensor can go bad anytime but this is too much of a co-incidence. On the other hand, the car did run fine for 3 days after the installation so that should rule out the CNG kit as a possible culprit. I don't want to go about randomly changing the o2 sensor, etc.
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130k miles, 4 cyl camry LE 2006, im very good about my oil changes
The car gets a good amount of vibration while it idles, you can sort of notice it with the dashboard vibrating, I've known it was happening but didn't seem terrible so I hadn't put much thought into it. It also goes away when i get moving, but will sometimes get worse again at stop lights.
Today I was jumping a friends car (2009 mercury mariner), having both hoods open at the same time made the amount my engine was vibrating pretty noticeable compared to hers. Totally different cars, i know, but still seemed like it was a bit much.
My question is what areas should i be looking into as the possible culprit? What could possibly cause an engine to have more vibration as it ages? Just to clarify, it doesn't seem super intense, like about to tear itself off the frame, but just enough so that you would notice it.
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My 07 gs350 only has 67,000 miles on it, and I've only had it for 2 weeks. I've noticed a rattle in my dash, seems to be up where the front windshield meets it. It only seems to happen when I hit bumps, which is quite frequent. The roads here in Michigan are absolutely terrible. Also I have run flat tires on it, which I heard makes for an extra bumpy ride... Is this a known problem? If so what's it gonna run me to fix it? Or is it just these run flat tires that I need to change maybe?
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So I have finally solved the rattle that has been seemingly coming from my driver side dash speaker. I'm not exactly sure which of the 3 things I did fixed it, but it's fixed.
First, I removed the 2 10mm bolts securing the speaker and removed the wiring harness. I noticed that there are 2 metal clips that those bolts screw into and they are loose, so I took some electrical tape and just taped over them to keep them from rattling.
Next, I found the wire for the speaker has a plastic shroud around it that is very stiff and could make noise, so I wrapped that with electrical tape as well.
Finally, the thing that was most likely the cause of the rattle was a loose wiring harness attached to the firewall. If you reach into the speaker hole you will feel the harness just under the hole. Where the harness is attached to the firewall it was extremely loose. I simply took a paper towel and was able to wedge it behind the harness and the firewall which kept it from moving.
Now the driver side rattle is gone, but I've noticed another rattle somewhere else near the center/passenger side of the dash. Every time I fix one rattle I seem to find another. Maybe I'm being a little OCD about it.
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I recently purchased a certified pre owned 11 350 AWD and am noticing a dash rattle on the drivers side. It seems to be on the dash above the tachometer. If I apply pressure(w my hand) it seems to go away.
I know rattles come in all shapes and sizes but where would you start?
Here's a night pic: Only had it a few weeks.
This is what I have done so far.
20/10 Tint
6K Low Beam Headlights
LED Parking Lights
Quick question: By replacing the HID low beam bulb do I lose the headlight turning adjustment feature. It doesn't appear to work now.
Thinking about Plastidipping the AWD GS350 emblem
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I drove my car downtown this morning. It was 7 degrees outside! - The windshield/dash rattle is no longer a rattle noise. It sounds like two Styrofoam boxes that are next to each other making a loud rubbing/creaking noise. I can hear it over the radio! I don't even have to go over a bump! Just turning in a curve in the road where the car leans slightly will produce this noise.
This problem is so un-Lexus like that I cannot believe it! - We are not talking new technology here folks! Cars have had Windshields and Dashes for over 80 years. Lexus had this problem solved when they released their first car! I have never owned a car that has done this. I am betting even a Yugo would not have this problem!
My car is going to the dealer on Monday to fix this problem. Luckily my dealer has said they have fixed this problem before and have never had it re-occur. We'll see about that! This is the only thing that is wrong with my GS350 in over a year of ownership. What I cannot believe is that Lexus knew about this problem in 2006 vehicles and it is still there in 2007! This is not rocket science! I will be very interested in hearing if this problem is truly corrected in the 2008 models!
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There's a creak/rattle under my dash on the passenger side. I know these cars are prone to have these problems and I'm probably lucky that this is the only one with 120K on it. What it may be before I start pulling the dash apart and doing trial and error?
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Problem: rattle between dash and windshield, mostly in cold weather when going over bumps, road expansion joints, etc. Dealer quoted about $1200 to remove dash and reinstall with some new clips. Car is out of warranty.
Parts to fix: 1 piece of craft felt, a square foot of it. Color not important. 50 cents. I clean putty knife that is NOT sharp (a plastic one is great).
Cut: Felt into a few 3 inch wide long strips, then fold lengthwise, in half.
Insert: Felt into area between dash and windshield with putty knife, pushing into the fold, until felt disappears from view (this is why color doesn't matter)
Drive: the car a bit to see if you fixed it. If not, put another strip next to the one you did, or another one on top of the one you just did.
Worked for me. Clean, cannot see the felt, easy.
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I have an 08 Sonata GLS and today an annoying rattle was coming from what seems to be deep in the dash on the passenger side. I checked the glove box, closed all the doors tight etc. etc. but it is still there. It seems like a vibration as it is pretty constant but it does change going over bumps etc. Is it a known issue?
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I bought a 09 Sonata GLS in July, really nice other than dash noise, what has been described as crackle. Briefly, my sonata is makes crackling noise going over small bumps, more pronounced in colder temp. I have taken it in to the dealer 4 times, problem still persist. According to the dealer, Hyundai regional office knows of my problem, and there is no fix for it at this time. I just bought the vehicle and I am suppose to live with it?????
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I had water pump and belt changed by a Toyota Dealer on 2006 4 cyl Camry LE. Now the car idles a little rougher, gas mileage is down by around 20%, and there is some subtle chatter noise.
Before the car would idle quiet (could not hear it from inside car), now it is noisier with a little vibration- both in park and drive. Gas mileage is worse, and I am compensating for winter temps (no snow around). I fill the tank and reset mileage to check. The needle also confirms lower mileage too.
A little noise around belt or pump area but another mechanic said belt tentioner is fine, no need to replace. So what could the dealer have done to cause this? What parts/systems do they operate on? Dealer said car sounds o.k., can't hear anything unusual (of course).Is there anything I can check myself or fix myself? I may try an auto stethoscope when I get one. Just want the old car back. Car has timing chain, no belt.
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I have a strange rattle from the center vent. This happens only at idle when at light or stop sign. If I move shift to N the rattle stops. This happens after car is warmed up to operating temp. seems like maybe the idle is a bit low. I have 35k miles.
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I have been searching and it seems I am not the only one who has a rough idle with the I4. It is very rough even without the A/C on. I can see the dash shaking, I can feel it in the steering wheel, brake pedal, seat, and arm rest.
The dealership cleaned my throttle body and MAP sensor (They forgot to put one of the screws back in the MAP). This is the third time they have cleaned them. When they returned it to me I told them to keep it until it is fixed. So they took it back in and decided that it might be the motor mounts so they went ahead and replaced them aside from the dogbone or whatever it's called.
When they returned the vehicle it was still having the same issue, they told me that its just the nature of the beast and to live with it. Well my neighbor has the exact same car, and yes it does have a SLIGHT vibration in gear but nothing like mine. I can't stand this car I really wish I would have bought something else.
I currently have 70,000 miles and for the last three oil changes I have been running Full Synthetic in hopes it would work but it has made no difference.
Just a note I have had multiple problems with this particular dealer lying to me. They even ripped up my passenger seat and would not fix it they said it was pre existing. I am over the seat I don't care anymore but I am tired of the rough idle. I plan on taking into another dealer but I am hesitant because they told me if there is no real problem I will have to pay in full for the diagnostic.
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I have a 99 lesabre cold start rough idle but smooths out . Warm no start. Trouble codes P0171, P0300, P0336. Had plennum replaced 2 years ago but I'm seeing coolant around the base of the plennum so I'm going to have to do that again but I don't think that has anything to do with the warm no start.
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My truck has been running great for the lasts 2 years. Today is actually the 2 year anniversary of me buying the truck. Still have great power and rumbles great down the road with no lights or anything.
Lately though at stop lights my idle will be inconstant. Will either sit smooth at about 550rpm, or be high but smooth around 700, OR that one that worries me the most is it will idle at 550rpm then drop down to 450 or so then catch itself and go back to 550, then drop back down.
It has the usual maintenance, new spark plugs around 100k, oil change and air filter just a few weeks ago, so this idle has me a bit puzzled. Maybe time for a new fuel filter? MAF sensor dirty?
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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'02 V6 30v with 73k.. engine noise sounds like rattle consistent with idle sounds like its coming from rear section of motor. i did search came up with a few probabilities but no resolutions just wondering if possible it could be oil pump because if i add oil then start up the noise disappears for a few mins then comes back, a few guys mentioned it could be camshaft tensioner.
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Like many Prius, mine has suffered from a persistent dash rattle. The dealer fixed it once while it was still under warranty, and it took an experienced technician several hours to disassemble the dash, fix the rattle, and put it all back together again. Eventually it started rattling again, and I have just lived with it rather than spend the time tearing apart the dash. I figured that any fix would be temporary, and I would likely cause another rattle trying to fix this one.
Well, a couple of days ago we were driving into the city. The rattle was particularly obnoxious, and seemed to be growing in intensity. I pressed on the dash in several places to see if made any difference. The rattle got louder and looser sounding, and then went "Tink!", like the sound of a falling screw, and then went silent. I can only assume that somewhere under my dash there is now a wayward screw. Hopefully it won't cause a short, but at least the rattle is gone for now.
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