Alright, so I've been battling this for a few hours. I know I need to replace a sensor, and that's about it. The issue, is I don't know if I need to replace an oxygen sensor or an air fuel ratio sensor. I have searched, but I keep finding conflicting information. So which do I need?
View 3 RepliesI have a check engine light come on in my 07 Avalon and had the car scanned. It was throwing error code P0031. I'm gonna go ahead and replace this O2 sensor, however, I'm having a hard time finding the correct part# for this sensor.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
I received error code P0031 on my 06 Avalon the other day. It states that the HO2S (Heated Oxygen Sensor) is bad. Bank 1 Sensor 1. I located the sensor but have a few questions...
Just to give an over view for those that don't know where these are, there are 4 sensors the one in the front on the manifold (upper - B2, S1), (lower - B2, S2) and the rear manifold (upper - B1, S1), (lower - B1, S2).
All of the sensors look the same with 4 wires. what the part number is for the sensor? Also since this is the hardest one to get to, I would like to know where the wire routes to. I found the wire up to the connector on every other sensor except the one I need (B1S1). It looks like it runs towards the top of the engine but from the top I don't see it.
Check engine like on my 03 Camry with 2.4L is own & got an OBD code of P0031. Just bought the car with 38k miles one owner & can't pass local emissions.
View 10 RepliesIt's time to go thru emissions testing, but I'm getting a P0031. New A/F Sensor (Denso 234-9041) did not fix it. California Emissions compliant.
2003 Camry, 2.4 16-valve
Car runs good, MPGs same as always, 26/27 and 30+
Old sensor has no resistance or continuity thru any of the pins.
New sensor has 2.5/2.8 ohms res between blk/blk pins. (? +B and HT ?)
200K miles, has burned oil since I got it w/ 140K. Have had MIL light on for two years, but did not care until now. Previously had diff DTC's, not P0031.
Swapped EFI relay with Headlight relay, no change.
Checked all fuses, all OK.
Cleaned ground on engine block and fender, no change.
Checking voltage at engine connector, sensor disconnected, car running, I'm seeing
Orange 3.31 = Blue Sensor wire (AF+ ?)
White 3.017 = White Sensor wire (AF- ?)
Blk/Red 3.827 = Blk Sensor wire (HT ?)
Blk/Wht 13/14 = Blk Sensor wire (+B ?)
I cannot find FREE online wiring diagrams anywhere. I have searched TN exhaustively, have not found anyone who actually fixed this problem, or provided a link to a wiring diagram.
So, which wire is the ground ? Should it show 0 voltage ? Is it controlled by ECM ? How do I test the ground continuity ?
Where is ECM located ? I want to unplug and re-plug.
What to do to get rid of P0031 check engine code on my 4 cyl. Camry LE. He replaced O2 and A/F sensor (Denso with CA emission), computer module (got dealer calibrated it), verified wiring/voltages, inspected the catalytic converter. When the code is cleared it will not come up for some time, but when the car is started cold it comes right back again.
View 2 RepliesI have 2 x P0031 and 2 x P0051 after an accident. I rear ended an SUV. My hood got bent and the radiator got pushed in. The body shop said they don't think it was due to an accident. I can't possibly have 4 sensors go on me.
View 9 RepliesI own a 2003 Camry LE. I went to Autozone to find out what the check enginge light was for and was given P0031. When the service person checked it out on the computer he said the probable causes were:
1) open or short circuit conditions
2) poor electrical connections
3) failed oxygen sensor
4) EFI relay fault.
I asked how it could be narrowed down and he said it I would have to get the car checked out.
2007 GS450h Lexus owner, and have got a few error codes appearing on her They are as follows:
Quote:
P0031 - Powertrain
HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2195 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank1 Sensor1
P2238 - Powertrain
2) O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit
Low bank1 Sensor1
P0138 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Am I right in saying, these are all just a dodgy bank 1 sensor 1 (engine bay) and possible sensor 2? Is replacing them myself feasible?
My 2007 Camry SE has an intermittent electrical issue. The problem started yesterday, no accidents of any time ever in the car. 195,000 miles on car.
As I was driving along the speedometer, tachometer, temp gauge all started bouncing. Simultaneously the ABS and Emergency brake light came on. The engine did not change, still drove fine. I got the code U0073. I checked a couple obvious fuses like ABS and Alternator as well as cleaning the contacts on the computer at the actuator. I've also checked my battery terminals -- fine.
I am hoping to narrow something down other than just going straight to replacing that ECU by the actuator. That is an expensive part not to be 100% sure of it, but as it stands now I would almost rather it be something "simple" like that because chasing these electrical phantoms is quite aggravating.
Also all the items I have focused are based off the assumption it is something electrical revolving around the ABS unit. Is it possible the instrument cluster is the culprit, wiring in the harness or a simple fuse related to that panel?
I have a 2007 Camry Hybrid and got the front and rear rotors and pads changed last Friday at a shop. On Monday morning, I drove the car to a Pharmacy drive-thru and briefly stopped it. It would not start a few minutes later and showed - Check VSC System Error. Push it out of the way and then I tried re-starting, and it did. Since then it has happened a couple of times again. A little push and then it restarts. Otherwise, all error lights come on when attempting to start the car. I check the brake fluid- it is at Max or slightly higher. The driving seems ok when it is driving. What could be happening? Is there a reset button or do I have to take it to the dealer to get it scanned? I disconnected the 'positive' terminal of the battery (the negative was hard to reach) but that did not seem to change things.
View 17 RepliesMy new '07 Camry with 5K miles on it, driving along, minding my own business. The navigation was on as it always is, but not in guidance mode. All of a sudden I notice the screen turn dark and I see this error: "MAP DVD - Unable to read data. Check if map DVD is correct." (see image)
I have never removed the DVD from the drive. It is clean as a whistle. I wasn't on a bumpy road. I tried resetting and cleaning it, but no good.
About 2 months ago, the check engine light came on and I had the code read, it came out as P0031, which is the 02 Sensor. Today, I had this 02 Sensor replaced and had the code reset, but later on today the check engine light came on again. The mechanic said I needed to drive it for about 100+ miles before the car resets itself. I drove it for about 30 miles before it did come back on.
View 8 RepliesVSC, Check engine light just came on my 2006 GS300. I only have 50k miles on it. I had this happen a few years back and it was the Gas cap o-ring. This time I changed the gas cap and reset the codes but no luck. After starting the car, with a minute the lights come back on. So checked the code and here is what I'm getting:
P0031
Heated Oxygen
Sensor Heater
Control Circuit Low
Bank 1 Sensor 1
Doing a search for the code yields this: [URL] .....
Changing the sensor vs. checking something else that might be the issue?
Both the P2195 (Oxygen sensor or A/F sensor stuck lean - bank 1 sensor 1) and P0031 (Oxygen sensor heater control circuit low - bank 1 sensor 1) were pulled on my 2009 LE (77K miles). Is it safe to assume that the upstream b1s1 sensor is the culprit?
I believe I've found the OE Denso part 234-9056 - is this the right one?
General question about O2 sensors - is it recommended to replace both the upstream and downstream at the same time, or is it not necessary to do that?
I just changed the battery in my 07 Camry with factory installed navigation system and now my whole radio/navigation system is DEAD.
I ejected and reinstalled DVD in NAV system and it has no effect. The ON/OFF button on radio does not turn radio on. Error message on screen is 'No DVD - Please insert MAP DVD. I have checked the radio fuse and it is OK.
I have a 96 camry 4Cyl 2.2L with 360k miles. The CEL came on and I checked the code and it came up with P0340. This points to Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit. Well the manual indicates that this sensor is built into the distributor and it's a whole assembly.
When I do a search for the part (camshaft position sensor) on a auto parts website, it comes up with a totally different part. The part that comes up looks like a crank shaft position sensor. Where to start first? The crank shaft sensor or the camshaft sensor on the distributor? I did ohm the cam shaft sensor on the distributor and it's within cold specs. Where would I find the crankshaft sensor?
Also, I did clear the code and started the car up and within 5 minutes the code came back up. The car seems to be running fine, smooth idling, no hesitation on the road either. II don't hear any noises coming from the Timing belt either, I just don't want to get stranded!
Had my Check Engine light come on so I went by a local AutoZone to see if they could read the code. He said it was P0137, but what his reader can't tell is which one it is.
A co-worker pointed out where it was on my 2006 2.4, but I'm not sure if it's the sensor in the engine bay or the one closest to the catalytic converter. The engine bay looks easy to change out but I'm in no condition to be crawling around underneath.
Which sensor the P0137 is referring to?
I recently got a 2014 Camry SE and have started to experience problems with the USB port in the center.
I generally plug in my 5th gen iPod to listen to audio, but I've started to get an connection error. The message reads Connection error. Please consult your Owner's Manual for instruction on how to connect the USB device." (see image link below)
Sometimes the iPod will connect, but most times it won't. If it does connect, the error will appear when I hit a big bump or pot hole, leading me to believe there might be a connection or soldering failure somewhere.
I can confirm that it's not the iPod's problem, my cell phone, tablet, or any other device plugged in will not get a power signal either. The iPod will connect via Bluetooth, but that is not optimal as I'd rather have my phone connected for hands-free calling.
If not, how easy is it to open up the console to get at the connection to check/fix it myself?
Car's a 2005 SE I4, auto, US-made
So, I finally got the Techstream to work; I think. I had ordered one which never came, then ordered a second one, which showed up after some five weeks. It took some playing around with the software, but it seems that I finally got it to work tonight on my old, and slow, Dell laptop (Windows 7, 32-bit), which will be devoted purely to car diagnostics, since there are supposed trojan viruses in the software.
The car's temperature gauge had been running very low, I had lost top-end power, as in, hitting a wall at 80-85 mph+ where there was no acceleration despite the pedal being floored, and eventually the check engine light came on. After the light came on, I took it easy on the car and ordered the software and cable. In full disclosure, I did a complete coolant flush in late Summer/early Fall, 2015, pouring in the proper fluid. There are no leaks and the level is correct. There are no foul odors from the engine. There is a slight head gasket leak on the upper right hand corner which I plan to address when the temps warm up again (no codes pertaining to vacuum leaks).
Tonight I managed to use the software and cable for the first time and pulled the following codes:
Engine and ECT, Monitor Status COM, DTC (Code) P0128
Occupant Detection, Monitor Status None, DTC (Code) B1771
So, do the symptoms described above, including loss of power, "match" the bad thermostat diagnosis?