My 2008 Camry sometimes when I am driving the brake and ABS panel lights comes on and the A/C starts blowing hot air, also all the panel starts behaving crazy. We put the scanner and it does not show any issues, otherwise the car runs smooth.
View 2 RepliesI noticed today, coming to work, my "Brake" warning light is on, on my dash panel. I engaged and disengaged the parking/emergency brake, thinking maybe was stuck there, but the light did not go out.
Is this related to my parking brake or my 4 wheel brakes? I have 4500 miles on this car. It is an XLE, 4 cyl. First time something like this has occurred since purchasing in December.
I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
View 4 RepliesWhile driving in the rain, AC in auto blowing cold air, hot air starts blowing. Cannot shut off blower (now on high), blowing very hot air. Radio control knobs stop working. In fact entire center control panel ceases to work. Shut the car off for 15 minutes and everything works fine. After the first time, car ran fine fine for 90 days before it did it a second time. Mechanic could not duplicate and reloaded software. May not know if car is fixed for months?
View 1 RepliesI have a 4 cylinder 2000 Camry that I recently took to the shop because my check engine light was on and it was blowing out a puff of white smoke when the car first starts. I was told it was an EGR problem and this is what I had fixed:
"Upon client approval, remove and replace defective EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve with new (OE) EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve. Test drive vehicle following service to confirm proper operation. Warranty on parts and labor is 2 years or 20,000 miles (whichever comes first). Warranty valid at FIXCARNOW locations only. "
The problem is my car is still blowing out smoke, the check engine light is off, but it is having the same problems it did before. My concern is that either they didn't properly diagnose the problem,even though they ran a full diagnostic on the car, or just didn't fix it.
I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. A week ago the instrument panel lights and parking lights would not go off after I turned the car off. At first this only happened once or twice but within days it was happening frequestly. In order to get the lights off, I had to turn them off and on frequently in order for the lights to finally go off. I have had the multi function switch replaced but after a few days the problem returned
View 1 RepliesFirst of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The brake light wouldn't illuminate. Found that the brake light fuse (20A) was blown. Put another in and it blew as I was inserting it. Figure there's a short somewhere, so I've disconnected both brake/tail light units in the back, the towing light connection, and have even completely disconnect the 3 brake light switches under the dash (yes, 3.... 2 directly attached to the brake pedal and one attached to the e-brake). Still, when I insert a 20A fuse (which is what is called for), it immediately blows.
Since I've disconnected the brake light switches, it seems to me the short can't be past that on the way to the back of the vehicle. Maybe I'm wrong though. It seems the short must be either between the switches and the fuse box, or somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. Unsure if the wiring routes through any relays under the hood, but I'd think it would at least have to go through one of the relay boxes since that's what eventually gets directly connected to the battery. I've tried using my multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance on either side of the space where that fuse goes, but I'm unsure what to expect from a reading like that, so those results are inconclusive.
I have a 2003 Accent and I'm having a problem with the brake lights not working. The tail lamps work when the night lights are turned on so it's not a bulb issue. The brake lights keep blowing the fuse. Brake lights will only work with a fresh, new fuse but only works for about a trip, give or take and then its blown.
View 1 Replies2002 Camry with check engine light steady on and car shutting off when coming to a stop. Diagnostics revealed error codes P0440, P0441, P0446, P0442 indicating evaporation problem. Found broken closed canister valve. Had valve replaced and check engine light went off. Technician says VSC/TRAC lights were on also when he pulled the car in.
They had not been on before. Now the VSC/TRAC lights are coming on and staying on when the car starts moving. The code is c1336, something about yaw rate sensor. Is there something that still needs to be reset or does this mean that the sensor is bad and what and where is this yaw rate sensor?
I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
My 2008 camry le v4 has some starting problem. So what happens is when i turn ignition on everything works like radio lights but no cranking i tried lock unlock. Ignition on off. But no cranking but after 2 mins it starts in first self.
It doesn't happens every time but normally Everyday in morning it starts fine but in evening it does it more or when weather is hot. Battery is new. Starter has no problems. I even tried different key.
It looks like alarm issue but i am not sure all the fuses looks fine. Every time it does it its always around 2 mins from when i put in key first time. But it always starts after delay. Its been doing this from 4 month with up to 2 weeks with no problem.
I have a 2007 F150 Lariat with a 5.4 L engine. Bought it 6 weeks ago from the original owner. Has 50,000 miles on it. He had a Ford command start installed when it was new, and received a new key FOB at that time. When I drive the vehicle, sometimes the horn will start blowing and the lights start flashing which to me, indicates the trucks security alarm is activated. The only way to make it stop, is to hit the unlock button on the key FOB. It also does it sometimes when it's not running and I open a door. Previous owner had same problem so he disconnected the horn!!?!
View 3 RepliesLet me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
I just got my led switch back lights in for my 08 camry. But I have run into a problem I have installed all four led signal lights (switch backs in the front and led ambers in the back) and the led flash relay for my car. What is happening is that the led will turn on for a couple of seconds and then the fuse for the signal lights burns out both the one under the dash and the one under the hood.
View 3 RepliesEvery time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
Every thing was working great then the AC quit. I ran through the air selector and all I can get is panel and defrost with no heat. I checked the vacuum line on the passenger side engine compartment and it looks good. Oh I also took the control apart and 3 of the five holes had vacuum to them.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Camry with no brake lights. I have: Checked all the bulbs, no failures. Replaced the brake light switch at the pedal Replaced the ABS relay. When replacing the ABS relay, the receptacle that takes the relay looked scorched and blackened where the prongs go in. Everything else in that block works fine. Is it possible that this one receptacle has shorted without that whole block being shorted? If so, I'm guessing I will have to replace the whole thing?
View 1 Replies03 xle 3.0. Recent motor mounts, front lower control arms, LR bearing. All good. Raining. Driving around all good. Stopped for several hours, started up, immediately brake vsc, trac, abs came on. Stopped to get a sandwich, started up again, all are out. Car seems fine otherwise.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2013 Passat started blowing hot air. I checked the fuses and they are ok. I looked at the sensor switch for the AC on the passenger side of the engine compartment and it looks like the wire caught on something and frayed/cut through. I don't see where it went through to fix. Finding info on this car is a slight challenge. The owners manual doesn't even have a map of the fuse panels.
View 3 RepliesSo I went to get my '08 Accent inspected, and we observed that the right side and the 3rd brake lights were out. Replaced the bulb on the right side and still out. Not even going to attempt the 3rd light until I can get more info, because the odds of a complete LED strip quitting all at once are, well, remote enough to be laughable.
I checked the RH tail lamp fuse - connection still good. The left side brake light still works, so I'm doubtful that this is the notorious brake light switch that was recalled - unless such an issue has indeed been reported with said switch...