Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Brake Lights Are Out - Fuse Keeps Blowing
Apr 5, 2007
First of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
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I have a 2002 Jetta Wagon 1.8 t I got pulled over the other day for no brake lights, and I figured it was just a fuse, but I had a look and it isn't that. the middle light thing in the top of the window comes on, so I know the switch works. (is is mechanical on the pedal, or hydraulic pressure?) Both taillights come on, but neither brake light. What's going on here?
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The brake light wouldn't illuminate. Found that the brake light fuse (20A) was blown. Put another in and it blew as I was inserting it. Figure there's a short somewhere, so I've disconnected both brake/tail light units in the back, the towing light connection, and have even completely disconnect the 3 brake light switches under the dash (yes, 3.... 2 directly attached to the brake pedal and one attached to the e-brake). Still, when I insert a 20A fuse (which is what is called for), it immediately blows.
Since I've disconnected the brake light switches, it seems to me the short can't be past that on the way to the back of the vehicle. Maybe I'm wrong though. It seems the short must be either between the switches and the fuse box, or somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. Unsure if the wiring routes through any relays under the hood, but I'd think it would at least have to go through one of the relay boxes since that's what eventually gets directly connected to the battery. I've tried using my multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance on either side of the space where that fuse goes, but I'm unsure what to expect from a reading like that, so those results are inconclusive.
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I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
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According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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99 Jetta VR6... 190k
So the heat doesn't really work on my car- and its getting cold outside.
I read the DIY on fixing the resistor pack, but there is a lot of hooptiness to my ride, (not sure if that's the issue).
All the fan control speeds work, but the most I ever get is vaguely warm air- it never gets fully hot.
The temperature gauge does not work most of the time- it does occasionally (but randomly) work as expected.
The defrost doesn't work either due to an issue with the AC (it keeps blowing the fuse for the AC compressor- like, right away)
There's a multitude of issues happening here I know, but need to narrow down the suspects for the heat, that would be very useful.
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I just replaced the alternator on my car last week, and thought the electrical bugs were gone. Today, I tried to replace the two rear dome lights with LED bulbs. I removed the original bulb, put the new one in and noticed that it did not work...so I put the old one back in and noticed it was no longer working either (everything was fine before I took the old one out).
I then tried to turn on the dome/map lights by the rear view mirror, and those won't come on anymore either. I then tried to close the door and lock it with my key remote, but it also no longer functions. Even if I "manually" lock the doors from the inside (via the lock button on the door panel OR actually pressing the lock down into its hole) they just pop back up and won't lock. Obviously I do not want to leave my car like this as someone can now open it and get in... Does this problem sound like a blown fuse? If it doesn't sound like a blown fuse, what else could it be?
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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The brake lights in my GTI keeping going out, I kept replacing the fuse and it kept blowing out.
I then replaced the relay/switch. They worked for a while now out again.
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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So yesterday on my way to work the EPC light came on. Everything seemed fine. No loss of power or check engine light. Just an EPC light on the dash. So after searching around and checking the forums I decided to step outside and check the codes. I have a bluetooth OBD2 deal that talks to my phone and I have software on my phone to read and clear codes and other things. I checked but no codes. So I decided to do the clear codes function and it made the EPC light go off. On my way to grab some lunch the EPC light came back on and I noticed my cruise control would not work. Did some more research and figured it must be the brake light switch.
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I'm having brake light issues with a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The brake light fuse keeps blowing. The last time driven with me following the driver side brake light was dimmer than the passenger side. At one stop the driver side brake light pulsed brighter for a split second then went back to dim. A few stops later it became as bright as the passenger side and stayed that way for the rest of the trip. The driver put in a breaker fuse and it was in during the observed trip. I'm not sure of the brake light visual symptoms without the breaker fuse in other than that the fuse keeps blowing which prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of park. What the problem could be? Bad ground?
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FUSE 38 Keeps blowing...it controls the fans and dealer is not sure why. Coolant fan control (FC) control Module.....
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