Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 GTI 1.8T - Unknown Fuse Blowing Constantly When Engine Starts
Jun 21, 2011
I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
02 JettaVr6 auto tranny- car was running perfect, no CEL. Now all of a sudden the fuse keeps blowing out- what exactly is running off this fuse?
View 1 Replies
My '99 Suburban 350 with the autotrac 4wd is having electrical problems. The transfer case fuse always blows. I thought it may be the transfer case shift motor, so I took it out and tried and the fuse still blew. I tested the pins on the fuse, and sure enough they are shorted together, but only when the car turns on.
View 14 Replies
First of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
View 23 Replies
On the way home yesterday I was caught in a deluge. I ended up having to go through one spot where the water was pooled, but not really that deep. Anyways, 45 minutes later I arrive home, park the car, and 15 minutes later the car horn starts blowing constantly. This went on for several minutes, stopped and started a few times, then eventually stopped. Nothing I tried would make it stop, it just eventually stopped on its own. So as not to wake the neighbors last night I pulled the fuse to the horn. With the fuse back in, the horn still works, what caused the problem?
View 5 Replies
2003 Jetta TDI GLI , fuse number 32 (30 amp fuse) keeps blowing immediately after I replace it. I can't start my car because of it. I do have a shorting head light and the glow plug indicator flashes with the check engine light on. This doesn't happen all the time. When it does happen, sometimes the accelerator will not work and instead of idling at ~900 rpm it idles at ~1100 rpm. I usually just restart my car and then it works again. Not sure how these issues are related but I can't start my car because of this blowing fuse.
View 2 Replies
99 Jetta VR6... 190k
So the heat doesn't really work on my car- and its getting cold outside.
I read the DIY on fixing the resistor pack, but there is a lot of hooptiness to my ride, (not sure if that's the issue).
All the fan control speeds work, but the most I ever get is vaguely warm air- it never gets fully hot.
The temperature gauge does not work most of the time- it does occasionally (but randomly) work as expected.
The defrost doesn't work either due to an issue with the AC (it keeps blowing the fuse for the AC compressor- like, right away)
There's a multitude of issues happening here I know, but need to narrow down the suspects for the heat, that would be very useful.
View 2 Replies
2000 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine with 220k miles, recently started intermittently stalling (about 15-20 minutes into my trip) while driving mostly on city streets but has also stalled on the freeway at 65mph. Fuel level is always > half full, verified against my tripometer. When it stalls, engine completely cuts off, all dashboard lights are all lit, and no power steering.
I have VCDS but know only enough to be dangerous My mechanic has no answers and I don't want to randomly throw new parts at this the car, hoping to resolve the problem. It's becoming seriously dangerous to drive, knowing it will die at least once on every trip. What's the chance the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ?
Symptoms
(1) Most of the time the engine just turns off, as if I turned off the ignition. Other times, I can catch the engine RPMs drop to ~300 and just hit the gas, which sometimes saves car from stalling.
(2) Immediately after it stalls, there is is rotten egg smell.
(3) Once stalled, the engine won't start back up again for at least 5 minutes. (turns over, but doesn't start)
(4) Confirmed error codes from VDCS: misfires on all cylinders and random
(5) Took it to my mechanic for diagnosis. They were unable to duplicate on a road test. Smoke test showed no vacuum leaks, road test monitoring data did not capture any additional faults, and found no faults running it heat soaked and parked. They captured sensor signal data and found no abnormal patterns. They feel replacing the O2 sensors is an expensive guess.
(6) Replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the car would not start at all, one morning. (discovered that the CPS tested at a faulty ~50k ohms). Bought a new one, installed it and it turned over immediately but the stall issue continues)
Fault Codes
Code:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
seen separately
Code:
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 35-10 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
Note that I have been ignoring the ABS-related errors for 4+ years. (not a concern or priority). On the short list are ignition coil or crankshaft sensor. Both of which require my mechanic to replace, I think.
View 3 Replies
I own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
View 3 Replies
I am trying to narrow down what could be the issue to my 2002 vw Jetta VR6 air conditioning. It is blowing air but the air is not cold. If I need to add refrigerant, where I can find the low pressure valve so I can do this on my own with one of those store bought cans.
View 2 Replies
I bought a 2002 gti mk4 with about 127000 miles on it .I did not know the turbo fans were blown out , they were sitting in my down pipe next to my catalytic converter . So I replaced the turbo myself , and 2 hours later the fans fell out of the new turbo , what might be the problem ? why it keeps blowing.
View 7 Replies
I got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
View 2 Replies
The AC on my car (2002 Jetta 1.8t) quit blowing cold. Did some troubleshooting and...
1. Checked Freon- level was ok
2. Noticed cooling fans were not coming on with AC button pressed and ignition on. Fans also not coming on when car up to temperature, but gauge never went above normal. Seems strange considering I live in Houston and it was 95+ out.
3. tested fans with direct power and both high and low are fine.
4. jumped terminals 1,2 and 2,3 on plug for cooling fan switch and fans turn on high and low...so thought must be bad cooling fan switch.
5. Replaced cooling fan switch and still no fans or ac when AC button is pressed and ignition on.
6. replaced Fan control module. Still no fans.
7. Checked Freon once more...and although it was in the ok range decided to add a little more. (was in the middle of ok range, and a cheap gauge)
8. Compressor kicks on, along with cooling fan. End up using the 1 can I had and now have cold air and fans that come on when hitting the AC button with ignition set to on position.
I thought the mkiv cars would always turn on the fans when AC button is pressed with ignition on? Or does the compressor also need to be charged?
View 13 Replies
The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
View 5 Replies
Why my 2002 cavalier keeps blowing the ERLS fuse?? Happened a while ago, and I heard the pop. Then my check engine light came on, along with the off track light and the air started blowing hot air, and it won't shift out of first gear. It is an automatic. I replaced the fuse, quit using the A/C and it ran for a couple weeks but not real far. Then after a 6-8 mile round trip it blew again and I can't seem to find any answers for a very odd problem.
View 1 Replies
I have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
View 8 Replies
The 7.5 a/c fuse blows every time the a/c button is pressed. replaced the a/c relay but problem persists.
View 3 Replies
Have problem with Golf IV 1998 1.6 74KW.
Ignition is troublesome, takes few seconds to start. RPM stays still at 800 idle but when pressing down gas pedal it takes few seconds to accelerate to 2000+. While driving engine starts to sputter under 1500-2000, happens after every gear shift. 2000+ does not sputter much but car still feels very weak.
Everything works fine at the morning or several hours after last ride. Problem starts when car hasn't run in 15min - ~1hour, problem seems to go away only in several hours.
View 2 Replies
When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
View 1 Replies
Fuse 29 was blown when I got my truck, automatic headlights and overdrive lock didn't work. I replaced the fuse, the lights came on and overdrive locked out but when I shifted into park the doors locked and the fuse blew. How the door locks are related and why they would lock when shifting to park?
View 2 Replies
FUSE 38 Keeps blowing...it controls the fans and dealer is not sure why. Coolant fan control (FC) control Module.....
View 6 Replies
