Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Reverse Lights Fuse 26 Blowing
Jan 12, 2006
Since last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
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Description: It will crank over forever but not start. New timing belt water pump, etc, so it is not timing. tried different fuel pump relay. no luck. new fuse no luck. The radio fuse also shorts and blows when I change it. Headlight does not come on, but the cabin "ding ding ding" sound plays. Marker, turning, reverse, and brake lights work.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on during key turn. I may know what caused it or it may not. Before all of this happened, my audio system fuse under the hood blow. It blew again after I installed a new fuse (immediately).
One day, the wires on a portable cigarette light pump snapped and the two wires had been touch. I noticed the truck stalled several times when letting off the gas and coming to a rolling stop. The fuel pump relay makes a click noise when I turn the key
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2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what??
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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Fuse #41 keeps blowing...scan tool says o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Problem is that when the o2 sensors are unplugged it keeps blowing fuse the second I hit the key. Where this short would be? I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. ( I'm new to this forum and I'm sure there is a sticky somewhere..
DTC codes: P1451, P0743. P0750. P0760. P0765. P1747. P0135. P1409. P0755. P0155
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I recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
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My 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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fuse #11 in the battery junction box under hood keeps blowing, the last time I put a fuse in it blew immediately, key was off and lights off. Fuse is for parking lights, dash light and I/P(whatever that is) and switch illumination lights. I have to start following all wires to find bad spot. May just put in piece of metal and watch for smoke...
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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My 2005 f350 reverse lights just started to not work . So I checked the fuse and it was blown and every time I put new fuse in it blows, where to check. Sounds like a ground issue am I correct .
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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I am having a problem with my dashboard lights blowing fuses. I bought an 87 Ranger XLT, and found that the dash lights didn't work. The 5 amp dash light fuse was blown, and the dome light would not come on using the switch. I replaced the fuse with a 15 amp and replaced the headlight switch which had melted the connector at one of the terminals. The dome light now comes on using the switch and I was able to get the dash lights to come on at a very low setting, but the headlight switch will smoke some.
But when I turn the switch to brighten the dash lights, it causes the tail light fuse to blow. I don't see how the dash lights could blow the tail light fuse, but it happens as soon as I install a new fuse and brighten the dash lights. What is going on? I think it is probably a short somewhere, so I pulled the instrument cluster and looked at the wires, didn't see anything exposed.
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I've got a 2008 Ranger FX4, 4.0L with manual transmission. Recently I noticed that I have no reverse lights. I have to parallel park on busy streets from time to time, so this is a safety issue that I need to fix.
I checked the bulbs, both seem fine - would be unlikely that both bulbs would die simultaneously. I checked the fuse. Again unlikely unless the reverse lights were on their own independent circuit. 10A fuse looks fine too.
Last thing I can think of is a switch. I checked my Haynes Manual, there is no mention of it, which is odd, usually my manual is quite good. Where the switch is located? Any experience with swapping this out?
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Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
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I just got my grandpa's 2002 Ford Ranger Edge after waiting years to obtain it. It runs great the only problem is that there is NO power to the radio what so ever. The truck belonged to the family and every one drove it but no one knows what happened.. There is no power to Fuse 28 however 12V to all other fuses that have to deal with the radio.
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I've a 1994 Ranger XLT 4.0L with a missing fuse panel cover. I'm trying to get the horn to work and we've traced the problem to a missing fuse. Unfortunately, there are 3 empty fuse slots and no info on their rating or use. Where I can get the proper info. Truck was a salvage, no ops manuals, and sloppy work putting it together.
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I have a 1995 BMW 525i and the fuse for the AC keeps blowing after a few minutes. It's #9 in the fuse box. Before the fuse blows the AC works fine. I can't find any visible problems. Is there a common problem that I can check?
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I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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My 1990 F150 blows the F1 fuse after driven a short distance. When the fuse blows the ABS light in the dash comes on.
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