Camry :: 2009 LE AC Operates Intermittently, Blows Warm Air In Cold Mode
Jun 10, 2016
I have a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) that has an intermittent operating A/C unit. The blower will always work, however the cold A/C only operates intermittently, but the unit will continue to blow warm air half the time and cold air the other half of the time while in the cold mode.
I read that there is a relay fuse in the 5th Generation Camry, which sounds like my problem, however, I am not able to locate such a fuse in the 6th Gen Camry.
Could it be a relay fuse? Any other culprits? I would like to see if this is a problem that I can fix.
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So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited. Dual climate control issue. The passenger side blows cold air regardless of the temperature setting or mode. How to remedy this?
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Bought new oct.2012. Fiirst time used heat blows cold from one side hot from other. not consistent, will vary from left cold, then hot from right or the opposite. been fighting with chrysler from then till now. engineers know problem exists and are working on a fix. haven't found it yet. contacted chrysler numerous times, just get passed from one to another.
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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I have a 2014 Lexus IS350 Fsport. When I press the button outside air mode and no fans are on. I get warm/hot air even when the outside temp is cold.
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Why my air-conditioning only blows cold on the passenger side on the driver's side It barley bows cold most of the time it is warm.
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Why my 1995 740i only blows out cold on the drivers side and warm on the pass side? this happens when i put the a/c on.
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I have a 2009 Camry 4cyl. I bought the car during the winter and did not really test out the A/C. Now we have 100 degree weather in NY and I tried to start it up but only hot air blows out. I have tried to do some research on here but from what I learned and tried everything was in tact. I checked the fuse (Inside the cabin) and freon everything was in order. I also tried looking for the non moving dry belt for the A/C but from what was visible all the belts were moving as they should. From what I saw and heard the condenser is non operational, is there a fuse that I might have missed?
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My 2009 silverado ltz is haveing heating issues. when you first start truck all work fine. After a couple min the drivers side vents loose heat and blows cold air. the heat on the pass side works fine. then the vent will change to defrost even though the display still shows its on vent. the only way to get it back is to mess with the vent control. then it will last about a min then back to defrost. at this point i just turn it off. I have already replaced the control panel to no avail ...
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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