Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: A/C Blows Warm Air Then To Cold Air
Jun 5, 2013
2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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I've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
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Is there a filter for the AC somewhere?
2001 F-350 gas
The air blows cold but it smells like something died in side it somewhere.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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I have a 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel and my AC isn't working properly. On Max AC as you're driving it would be ok and then it would be warm and then cold and then warm and then cold and so on. I've noticed that the clutch stays engaged as well. I've never seen it disengage. The freon is at the level it needs to be. Then just a few days ago, if you have it on Max and High the air disappears from the vents and you hear a noise somewhere in the dash on the passenger side. I think something might have come off?? What's wrong with my AC with it going from cold to warm constantly? I heard that maybe clutch has too big of a gap?? I have almost 200,000 miles on it.
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I bought a used 99 f250 v10, i went to turn on the a/c today, and it only blows where the defrost is toward the window. it gets cold after awhile, but nothing out the vents, the heat either.
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2002, F250, 5.4, ZF6, 140k.
My heat only blows through the defroster. I was looking for my vacuum pump, but can't seem to find it. I find plenty of diesel threads where they show it, but mine isn't in the same location. I can actuate the diverter by hand and it will make the heat stop at the defroster and come out at your feet.
I have attached images of my rig.
Were to look for the vacuum pump? Any key spots to look for failed vacuum lines? What is this?
This is where most threads say the vacuum pump should be.
This switches from defrost to floor when operated manually.
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I have a early 2003 SD with the 5.4 triton. It has a oil leak on the passenger side, the oil blows back and gets on the exhaust.
I have been under the truck with the engine running looking at where the head meets the block and at where the valve cover meets the head and can not see a leak.
Sitting there running at idle it does not drip a drop off the engine but the entire underside of the truck is coated in oil.
I did notice that the depression around one of the upper valve cover bolts was filled with oil, I cleaned out the oil, let the truck run and it stays dry.
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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The truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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My truck is a 2000 f350 with a 7.3 init but when I shut it off and open the doors the power is still on in the truck and ac blows then shuts off. Relays are going crazy and I can not find the problem.
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Its hot in St. Louis and my windshield sure is staying cold (ac blows from defrost vents only).
1999 Ford F350 7.3 diesel 4x4 (4x4 lever on the floor). About a month ago, the ac starts blowing out of the defrost vents only. I assumed it was a vacuum issue.
Lines looked good; very plyable still. Canister looked fine. The vacuum pump on the pass fender well smelled burnt, so I replaced it. Got the new pump in and it didn't work. Checked the fuse panel and found two blown fuses, replaced them and the pump worked.
Here's my issues: if AC max is used, the vacuum pump stops working and air blows through defrost only . If the dash switch is in the off position and then turned back on, air blows through defrost vents again and vacuum pump will not work.
Is there a solenoid or switch to this vacuum pump that I'm not seeing?
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Truck blows smoke like a blown NASCAR engine occasionally when pulling heavy load....pull over, cool off and resume driving. Its as if it never happened. All fluid levels are in range and truck drives fine minus load. My last f350 5.4 did same thing at about 200k miles. My local ford dealer tells me I'm the only guy on earth this Has happened to.
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I have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
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this doesn't make any since to , what's going is, sometimes the AC starts blowing warm air, I found out if I goose it I can hear what sounds like the damper door slamming shut, then AC starts blowing cold again. I changed out electric vacuum pump, but it still does it, starting to get worse & its hot.
Truck is a 2002 f250 powerstroke, the way I understand it, is only thing vacuum pump is supposed to control is AC & 4 wheel locks, my truck is only 2wd. I don't understand why when when I goose it ,it goes to working, what can I do to fix this.
I just found out the " heat and cool "adjustment is electrical, not vacuum, it goes to something under dash, but what it is, heat strip, reastat(sp)??? where and what damper am I hearing. It is not like heater is on ,not that hot, feels like ambient temp, I am at a loss...
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I just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
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