Camry 2012+ :: 2016 SE Won't Start Consistently - Check Charging System
Mar 8, 2016
I've had this new car (SE Special Edition) for two weeks and I've received the Check Charging System 3 times over two weeks when trying to start the car and it fails to start. My foot is on the brake when I press the Start button. Battery is OK as lights and radio work fine.
This morning I spent over an hour trying to get the car started before having it towed back to the dealer. Service promptly said the car started right up. They confirmed that the battery is OK. Dealer says they are looking further but I'm frustrated that it started right up for them.
The first two times (a week ago) I couldn't start it, I would wait 5 minutes and then it started right up.
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I just got a Camry SE 2016 last Wednesday. and when I put the ignition key in and switch it, before turning on the engine, this message shows up: "Check charging system". and when the engine starts, the message is gone. Is this normal?
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The display says "check charging system" only when I turn the key to on position. Is this normal?
2015 Camry XLE
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I installed some 5K HID's with 35W ballasts and a relay on my 15 toyota camry SE. When I start the system, it says check charging system and once the engine starts it goes away. I initially had 50W ballasts installed but I changed it to 35W as the 50W caused the HIDs to be too bright for my taste.
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I have a 2008 f350 6.4 (105,000 miles) and I am randomly getting the check charging system the batterys have a standing voltage of 13.8 and 13.9-14v (read from the ecu with scanner) both at idle and under a load. I also checked the alternator and its making 13.8-14 all the batteries are tight and there is no corrosion.
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I have a 2003 mercury mountaineer 4.6L AWD. The other day it died at the grocery store and now won't start. All it has is the check charging system warning light on. Changed Alternator, battery and starter already and still nothing. It does start sometimes but i need to give it gas to keep it running.
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New Interstate battery, new alternator (x2, 1st was Napa (DOA), 2nd Motor Craft) and 1 new Napa idler wheel. The battery test at 12.5 and when the truck idles it shoot to 15.14. It holds a charge fine, but the check charging system keeps popping up which concerns me, not only because its annoying. Also why such a spike when started...?
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So mad today. Check engine light came on, plugged in my scanner, got P0441 EVAP Emission Control system Purge Flow Fault and P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large).
8-month old '13 TCH XLE is getting a check engine light already.
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After clearing my 2013 Avalon today, which took about 2 hours to complete, I attempted to start the car and it would/will not turn over. I waited a bit and attempted again, same result. The battery appears to be fine, all the lights and the console are working, power windows, etc. The heads up display had this message: "Check Charging System" I have check the owners manual and read something about the car being in Accessory mode. Another item referred to the fuel system being disable. None of these examples make sense.
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Check Charging System message, battery-shaped idiot light, and audible beep has happened a few times over the past month or so. Yesterday it happened while my wife was driving so I had to bring it to the dealer, not to mention I drove it last night and there was constant beeping for about a minute which was pretty annoying.
But first I had the battery checked, which turned out to be OK. Also we got a new alternator 5 months ago, installed by the dealer.
Today they said they "updated the computer" whatever that means, and otherwise couldn't find anything wrong. $99.85 plus tax.
Needless to say I'm not confident that "updating the computer" has fixed it. What are the odds we get the warning again in a couple of weeks? Short of disconnecting the sensor, is there anything that can be done?
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Three weeks ago I replaced my battery and serpentine belt as general maintenance before heading out on a prolonged trip. The next day I started receiving 'check charging system' whenever I turned the a/c on and the truck is at idle. Power steering becomes very hard to turn and engine feels like it is going to quit.
This is not a problem at highway speeds. Looking at the engine when the a/c is engaged, a slow down of the belt/pulley is obvious. The alternator has been removed and checked, battery checked good, and the belt is the right size/length. What could be causing this? Again it started behaving like this after a belt and battery change. There is no issue if the a/c is off...
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I have a 2004 Explorer with 167,000 miles that has begun to display erractic messages such as, check charging system, low tire pressure, AvTrac off and about everything there is. Reset and everything looks good then messages start again. I am thinking computer module.
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My 2008 2wd 4.0l XLT is having a strange power steering issue. When I start the truck and back out of my driveway it feels like I have no power steering. Within about ten seconds of putting the truck in reverse the "check charging system" warning comes on the dash. As long as it is on I have no power steering. That warning stays on for about 15-20 seconds and then goes away. As soon as it goes away power steering is restored.
I have checked my battery and it is good, it is also pretty new. The power steering fluid level is good. Based on another thread that seemed to have a similar issue I replaced the serpentine belt, the idler pulley and the belt tensioner. No changes at all to the issue. My next step is to replace the power steering pump....
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I have an '04 F-150 4 x 4 Supercrew Lariat w/ the 5.4 V-8. It has 105,832 miles on it. No issues until a week ago. Battery light and "Check Charging System" message appear 30 seconds after cranking the engine. I have replaced the battery (Ford Motorcraft), belt and alternator (Motorcraft 130 Amp). Still getting battery light and error message. I've read some post that indicate it could be a short in the fuse box.
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I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
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Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
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I just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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I would like to make one or both of the 12v charging ports in the center console supplied by constant power, instead of accessory fed.
I haven't torn too deep into this car yet, so is there an easier way to do this besides running a lead from the battery? An empty spot in the fuse block perhaps?
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12V power charging outlets not working but car runs well with good lighting.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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