I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
View 8 RepliesI looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 RepliesI got a piece of bolt stuck in the trans pan bolt hole, how to get that out if there!
View 9 Repliesso I have a 2azfe engine
So there's an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket (just purchased vehicle dirt cheap with 220k)
found this
Notice all the oil sitting on top of the exhaust mani gasket
In the left(lower) part of the picture it appears to be scraped.
the gasket appears to be newer, I did NOT use a screw driver to remove the valve cover, which is what this appears to have been done..
Can this be sanded down then filled with jb weld, and then regasketed?
So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
View 14 RepliesI changed my leaky valve cover gasket today, along with my spark plugs and PCV valve. Now after driving a few minutes my CEL and oil light come on.
the car was/is low on oil from the leak. I was going to change the oil but it has been pouring rain today and it was all I could do to get the valve cover gasket done.
I put two quarts in after the oil light came on, I haven't had a chance to check the level since then.
I don't see oil leaking anywhere on the engine. I cleaned it up pretty well around the valve cover and should see any new oil easily.
How low does it have to be for the oil light to come on?
2007 2.4L Camry LE.
Took the plastic engine cover off and found that there are two rubber gasket/washers that stayed stuck to the valve cover (around the threaded rods that stick out of the cover). When I tried to remove them, they disintegrated. Now, my plastic engine cover is having problems tightening on properly, if that makes sense.
So, if you look at the engine cover, you take the two nuts off and remove the cover. There are rubber isolators/gasket that is there. Mine have disintegrated. Call to the Dealership says I have to replace the entire cover as you cannot get those separately.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 210,000km on it. Today I popped the hood, noticed the coolant was slightly low in the over flow reservoir so I looked around the engine bay. Now I know generally coolant does not go up that far and it's just oil... But this has got my head turning. There's a crusty coolant residue drip that looks to start at the valve cover. At first I thought maybe the water pump was leaking, and the pulley was spinning it farther up, or spraying back from a rad leak when driving. but the fact it's crusty and A clear line that looks like a drip that's a slow leak and has crusted over time makes me wonder.
I mean generally coolant wouldn't come out of the valve cover unless it was right full of coolant, causing enough pressure to push it out... Am I wrong ? Once I get to the shop on Monday I'm going to pressurize the cooling system and pull the spark plugs and the valve cover to look at the head, The highest spot I see the drip start is the valve cover, only thing I could think of is the intake leaking, and traveling over there but even then, it doesn't make sense to me. The thermostat housing is about 2.5" under so it can't be that... It's such a small leak, the reservoir is only down about maybe half an inch and the oil looks clean as can be.... There's some pictures below that you can somewhat see it.
I have a 2002 toyota camry xle 6 cyl i believe i have a valve cover gasket leaking vehicle has 112,000 miles. is there a step by step removal proccess i can access. I have done one on a 1995 honda passport 6 cyl how difficult is it
View 2 RepliesOwn a 2000 Camry XLE 6-cyl. Both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Rear one leaks onto the manifold and causes stench. Have been quoted $350. to replace because the job is complicated. Have any of you done this on your own, and if so, would you recommend it or go to a qualified mechanic?
View 9 Replies2002 Camry 4 cyl was leaking a small bit of oil on the rear passenger side of the valve cover - about directly behind where the timing chain is. I replaced the valve cover today, but noticed that there is still a small amount of oil leaking at the same spot. Is this a common problem with the '02 Camry? Or perhaps I have a valve cover problem?
View 2 RepliesThe garage said that the "carrier bolt" is broken. What is this and is it a harbinger of more death to follow? This truck is rowdy and distrustful to drive to begin with.
View 4 Repliesjust got back into a .:R 6/18/13 and took it to a nearby jiffy lube to get an oil change not 100% sure if they're responsible or not but i noticed the belly pan was hanging rather low and broke not too long after. ordered a replacement from ecs w/ the 3 M6x20 pan->subframe bolts since they were missing. got under the car today to replace/install new pan and noticed that 2 of the missing bolts were broken in the frame. tried searching but found nothing?
View 4 RepliesOk, here it goes. I was changing the timing belt on a 2005 PT Cruiser. Everything went good until I tried re-installing the harmonic balancer. No one in town carried the tool to reinstall the thing, so I ordered a tool from Amazon. I was installing the balancer, had a box end wrench just holding the bolt that screwed into the crankshaft and an adjustable wrench turning the bearing nut to push the pulley back on. I got the pulley down where the balancer and crankshaft started turning, so I held the box end wrench steady as I snugged the bearing to make sure it had bottomed out when the bolt broke down in the crankshaft.
Now, this bolt had threads at the top to turn the bearing, a shaft, and then about half inch but no more than 3/4 inch of thread at the bottom to thread into the crank and a long shoulder in between. The bolt broke at the bottom where the threaded part started. And, to make things worse, it turns out the bolt is made of pewter and is about 3-4 inches in the crank. I tried to feel for threads with the crank bolt itself, and t appears to be where the crank threads start. There appears to be abut 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of space on the other end of the broken bolt. I have considered drilling the center out progressively bigger until I could get something in there to back the bolt out, and I am not sure I could get a bolt extractor down in the hole and then turn the thing to back it out.
well Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
View 14 RepliesI'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
I've had two control arm bolts broken in the last year (resulting in the arms being replaced) during my '3 year alignment' program.
The bolts have been broken and then I get a call and a bill for the new control arm and labor.
Is it that common to break the control arm bolts when aligning the wheels? I do live in Michigan where salt is used on the roads.
There are some other things that seem have not inspired my trust (billing mistakes and not torquing the rear wheel after replacing the arm and letting me drive home) ...But, I want to be fair and if this/these are regular occurrences I'll go back and work with the shop.
The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-