Camry :: XLE - Clunking In The Rear Sounds Like Something Rolling Around In Trunk
Dec 4, 2012
My wife claims that it sounds like something rolling around in the trunk. I emptied the trunk and checked the spare tire and jack, it was all good.
I drove the car last night in the rain, I think that I heard something once, not the end of the world noise that she describes. Tonight I plan to crawl under and look at the sway bar bushings etc. She claims that it does it mostly when she hits a "big bump". The real cause/solution is probably not to hit big bumps!
I think the sway bar bushings usually make a popping noise, maybe its the sway bar link.
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Was having some clunking sounds coming from the rear end on the old F150. Bro in law said it was lack of gear lube and the rear diff grinding from the start. Wasn't the issue. U - joints are shot and causing the issue. My question is I marked the drive shashshaft and flange with a sharpie but it rubbed off on the flange from free spinning the rear end seeing if the issue was there. From the drive shashshaft to the rear diff flange does the flange need to be marked or no? I did scribe with a nail the transfer case and marked the drive shaft with sharpie. So is the flange being marked important or just the bracket with the u-joint? Would've used soap stone but don't have any on hand.
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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I have a 99 B5 stock with 114,000 on it. On Saturday my wife and I went out for a ride, she had to get something form the trunk so I unlock the doors and she gets out when she gets back in the car I notice the trunk lid light is on and i tell her to close it she said she did so I get out and close it. I noticed when i went to close it the latch wouldn't engage. I turn the car off and try to use my key to lock the trunk, I noticed the alarm doesn't engage when I try to lock it. I then try to start up the car and it wont start.
I pop the hood everything looks good I try it again no luck after about twenty minutes of testing, I decide to disconnect the battery. The car starts right up but while im driving i notice the trunk lid light comes back on and my doors keep trying to lock, then my windows go down for no reason...What is going on, I have heard that some passats have a real bad electrical problem with time but what causes it and is this something Im going to have to bring to the stealership to get fixed.
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Just recently I've noticed clunking in the rear of the car while driving on bumpy roads, on semi-smooth roads the clunking barely happens. I jacked up the rear of the car today to check for broken brackets/bolts/ect. and found nothing. Re-greased the sway bar bushings and tightened down the endlinks a tad (part where it attaches to the sway bar, the top ones look tight but didn't check. ). Cant seem to find anything wrong. The car is 40k miles, had tein solara springs since 3k miles, got the 23mm ur racing sway bar put in at around 15-20k miles, and then bc coilovers around 35k miles. My best guess is that the rear endlinks are done and need replacing.
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My 2004 camry still has a clunking sound out of the right rear when i drive over rough road. I replaced the rear struts, sway bar links and grommets and right rear bearing hub assy. What else could it be?
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2012 SE 4 cylinder. Noticed the other day a humming noise from under the rear trunk area, maybe an evap test, seemed to be running for several minutes, I did key on/off and it shut off. How often does this run, is it a battery drainer?
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I have a 2012 Camry LE and notice that when i open the rear driver side door, there is a clunking noise when it opens into one position. I tried greasing the hinge and it didn't make much of a difference.
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I noticed something clunking around in the plastic piece that is on the trunk lid itself - the piece that covers the brake lights. When the trunk goes up or down, there is a distinct noise that is something rolling around in there.
I pulled off the access panel to get to the lights, but is does the rest of it just snap off if I pull at it or use a pry tool?
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So, I took my 2012 SEL in for a number of issues - one of which was a "clunking" sound in the trunk lid. Dealer had me come pick the car up, letting me know they fixed all the issues and found the source of the noise. Turns out it was a small rubber block that looks to be a sort of spacer/sound deadener, but the dealer has no clue where they go. There were two (2) of these little bastards rolling around in there, and I really want to put them where they belong...but I dont know where they go...
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I'm having a problem trying to troubleshoot the warning buzzer circuit. Normally,the warning buzzer beeps twice when the trunk begins to open. It will also beep twice when you press the button to close the trunk. Yesterday I noticed that the warning no longer sounds when i open the trunk, but still beeps when i close the trunk. I examined he trunk closer, but couldn't find the buzzer or an activator for the beep generator. The service manual was worthless.
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I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
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So today I detailed the car, as I am moving on to do the windows *(last thing). My rear right window started acting up.
1. I rolled it down to clean the top.
2. I clicked for it roll up and it did
3. 1/2 second later it rolls back down on its own all the way down *(well as far as they roll down on the back).
4. I click again once for it roll up and it does, but 1/2 second later rolls back down on its own.
So I walked over to driver side to use controls on that side and same thing kept happening. The only way to get it to stay up was to roll it up, and take the key out as soon as its up all the way. It kept doing it for some time, not sure what to do. I literally very lightly tapped on the rubber housing thats between the door jam and frame *(when you open the door) and window is now working fine.
I am about 150 miles of 36K
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My 2001 jeep cherokee sport had a transfer case boot replaced a few months ago where the "oil spinner?" is near the rear portion. Before that went out i had periodic noise that i narrowed down to the transfer case using a mechanics stethoscope. Now i have a cluncking noise with gear grinding sounds periodically between 15-35 mph. I have annecdotal evidence from another forum that it may be the oil pump in the transfere case related to a TSB, yet i cannot find this TSB. Am i on the right track? It appears that i can get an oil pump for $60 but i have to consider dropping the case myself and pulling it apart.
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I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
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Having issues with the driver's side seatbelt rolling over and jamming in the guide? This has been an ongoing problem with my 2005 Camry, and seems to be widespread as it is a major complaint on other websites. [URL] ....
I keep a small flathead screwdriver in the car to pry off the plastic door trim panel to untangle the belt.
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I have a 2006 f150 extended cab and the rear passenger window stopped rolling up one day. I ordered a replacement regulator and installed it. It still doesn't work and I tested then switch in the door and it seems to be working still. The window itself does not seem to be caught on anything either.
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I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
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I just purchased an Automatic 2009 Camry LE with 64k 2weeks ago, and noticed that twice it felt like it was losing power on an incline so I bought the fuel system cleaner to see if that worked (seaform). Tonight I go to park it on a street with a slight incline. As I shift to reverse to line the car up, it rolled forward. It shocked me bc there was a parked car right in front of me. I tried putting it in Drive/Park etc then back in Reverse it still rolled forward. I put my foot on the brake and gas at the same time to try to reverse but not wanting to give it too much gas bc I was scared it might fly forwards into the car in front of me (still rolled forward). Finally I was so close to the car in front of me I gave it a try and it still rolled and bumped the truck in front of me but with enough gas it went into reverse.
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Some of you may have seen my thread on my new car: [URL] ....
Its got just over 500 miles on it and I have noticed that at moderate speeds(40-50), if i turn, I hear a noise in the rear part of my car as if there's a metal ball rolling inside. I've already checked and there's absolutely no loose objects or any objects for that matter.
I checked the spare wheel bay, removed the spare, and found this beauty just sitting. Where it came from or why it was there.
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My father recently purchased a 2012 Prius 3. To reduce his insurance premiums, he purchased an alarm system, which the dealer installed for him a few days after he first took the car off the lot. Now, when unlocking or locking the car from the driver's door handle sensor or via the remote, it both chirps (not the horn) and briefly sounds the horn twice or once, depending on whether you are unlocking or locking.
The problem is that when the car is unlocked from the trunk or the passenger door (using the door handle sensor with the key in pocket), this does not disarm the alarm, and the alarm will sound when the door is opened. The alarm is only disarmed when using the remote's unlock button or using the Smart Key sensor at the driver's door. One of the major differences between the 3 and 2 trims is that the 3 has Smart Key capability on the front doors and the trunk, rather than just the driver's door but the alarm has negated this benefit, as opening the trunk or passenger door without first unlocking from the driver's door or remote causes the alarm to sound.
Is this normal for a Toyota-installed alarm?
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