Caprice :: 1993 Classic Brakes Literally Froze When Temperature Dropped Down
Sep 13, 2014
Last year, around Jan/Feb, our temperatures dropped down to about -30F, and I had a weird issue where my brakes literally froze. I couldn't push them at all. I let the car sit for a few minutes, and started slowly pumping the brakes, and eventually got them freed up.
A few months later, the brake line going to the rear popped. I eventually got it replaced. Then a few months later, the front brakes started scraping and squealing, and so I replaced the front pads and calipers about two weeks ago.
Now, the other day I was slowing down to make a turn, and my brakes completely went out. When they did, I heard a pop from up by the engine. I pulled over, lifted the hood, and there was brake fluid covering my hood, abs unit, and a small amount on the engine.
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Last summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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On my 86 caprice classic. the gas Gauge jumps to full when i turn the key even when car is started but its only like a gallon of gas in there is it the sending unit the ground or something else and is there any way to test it.
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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Couple days ago it's -24C and I jump in car and head off to hardware store. Shop for 30 min and return and start the car. Starts ok but I notice that I have all sorts of warning lights on dash (ABS, Airbag, Parking Brake) and no power to my center console ie radio, climate stuff, fan etc. Also I can't move the shifter from Park.
Car's running so I dig out the manual to check the warning lights info and look at the fuse diagram cause maybe it's a blown fuse. Anyway 3-4 min after this, the power starts coming back to my center console, I hear the radio, then the fan then everything seems back to normal, except i still have dash warning lights and no shift action out of Park.
A few minutes later my dash warning lights start to go out, one at a time until only the ABS light is on. And my shifter now works. I wait a few minutes, make sure I have brakes, and drive home. Start it a few hours later and all is normal. And has been since.
A few days previous to that, in -27C weather my brakes froze and I had to do some serious pumping to get them to unfreeze. Maybe the two event are related.
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My 93 Caprice is having brake issues. I replaced the master cylinder and bled each of the lines, but the pedal is still spongy and the brake light comes on as the pedal reaches the floor. I'm not sure what in the system to check/replace next.
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It's been quite a while since I was here - which shows that my Passat has been pretty reliable recently. But now I have a problem. WHen I was driving home about a week ago, I saw the temperature suddenly drop all the way to the stop. I put on the heater, and the air continued to come out at regular temperature, so the problem was in the reading/display. I have a Scangauge, which I connected, and it showed the correct temperature (around 190), confirming a problem with the display.
I contacted the dealer, who first insisted that it must be the thermostat (then why do I get a reading of 190 with the Scan Gauge and why is the heater still hot). When I disagreed, they said it must be the sensor. When I pointed out that the Scan Gauge correctly shows the rise in temperature for cold and then show the temperature maintained at between about 185 and 195) , then they said it must be the gauge, which requires a new instrument cluster.
I went to a another service place I've used (not a dealer) and they insist that it must be the sensor, based on past experience. For this to be true, the engine must have different temperature sensors for the instrument cluster display than it does for the computer.
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My 2004 RX330 which has gone many years without a problem suddenly has instrument panel gremlins.
I started the car a couple of days ago (it had rained during the day), and the airbag light did not turn off. Then the TPMS warning light came on, the water temperature gauge dropped to zero. The AC controls stopped responding. Since I needed to get home, and the car seemed otherwise fine, I drove home, after a few minutes the transmission "D" drive light went blank and the instrument back-light went to full brightness.
A few minutes later, all the warning lights went off and the back-light went back to normal. The AC controls still seemed to be off. A few minutes later the airbag warning light came back on, followed by the TPMS light and the back-light went to full brightness again. This cycle kept happening all the way home.
The next morning, hoping the problem had been some errant water getting into something, I started the car, opened the driver's door to get something and got back into the car, closing the door. The light showing the door was open stayed on. I put the car into reverse, the doors did not automatically lock as they usually do. I turned off the engine and restarted it, most of the other lights were off, the doors would lock; airbag & TPMS light came back on.
It has stayed that way, except I also get the A/T temperature warning light coming on periodically, and after some cycle it goes off.
I borrowed a car code reader, it does not seem to show any error codes. In reading some other postings it has been suggested that the Brake light switch is the cause, but the brake lights come on/off without any problem.
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My rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
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My '93 has the RABS lite on when I use the brakes and the brake light comes on when I use the brakes hard. While searching the topic I stumbled on a reference to bypassing theRABS with a piece of brake line, Looking for the particulars on this?
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My '93 Toyota Corolla recently had dash lights come on when I applied the brakes - after parking, gear shift placed in 'park', and ignition turned off. I have never noticed this before (btw, have new battery installed within past two weeks). Is this an indicator of anything I should pay attention to? It did this about a week and now has stopped.
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I have a 93 f250. Have a few inches of play in the wheel. Any way I can tighting this up?
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Something strange happened the other evening while driving. I'll just lay down the facts: I picked up my kid from class. When we got in the Prius there was a song I turned it down kind of fast.
It had rained earlier and there was a puddle at the curb. I slowly went through it and into traffic and accelerated. The music stopped and I looked at the display. The back up camera was on and I was looking at the road moving behind me. It flashed a few times then went black.
I pulled over and turned off the car. Turned it back on and all has been OK since. Just weird that it would do that all by itself.
I didn't "blast" through the water.
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I've read a vacuum leak will cause this problem and my wife heard a hissing noise when I applied the brakes on the way home for lunch. So I'm assuming a vacuum leak someplace in the brake system, but I've not found one yet using the carb cleaner approach. The brakes worked on the way home but on the way back to work they hardly work at all - very stiff. Could the vacuum booster be the problem?
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So it looks like there is no adjustment on the Parking Brake on this ride other than adjusting the shoes up. As far as I can see my Parking Brake should work like a champ, but it won't hold on much of a hill. I have new shoes, new drums and it is adjusted up so I can hear them drag. I can actually feel it getting tight then looser as you spin the wheel, like one of the new drums is slightly out of round, so I don't think I could go much tighter. Is it possible one or more of the cables is stretched? I did see the shoes spread when I had the drums off and I stepped on the Park Brake, so I know things are working at least that much.
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I am the owner of a PASSAT 2.0 Tfsi (2007 year) . Few days ago the pipe from the air condition froze suddenly.
After a few minutes the ice melt down and the air condition was ok again!
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My timing belt literally burnt off today and jammed my engine up.
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I tried starting up the Ex last night and it would not stay running unless I pressed on the gas and once I let go of the gas it would die. It had been pretty cold in Austin the last few days and I hadn't driven the Ex since Sunday.
So today I went to start it just now after it warmed up pretty good and the sun has been out. It would not start on key crank alone, I had to hit the gas but once I hit the gas it would stay running so I left it running for a few minutes then turned it off then waited a few minutes and turned it back on with the key alone and now it starts without needing to press the gas!
Is this just a product of the cold weather, was the IAC Valve froze stuck? Is that something I'd never have to worry about in the summer?
Should I clean the IAC? If so what cleaner recommended? Should I replace it? Will happen again after a cleaning?
I was super bummed when it would not start last night but I'm glad it's running again! I'm sure towing this beast would be expensive if I got stranded somewhere else but home.
In my searching for this problem I found a guy with a different car who said he had to keep both feet on the gas and brake (which was dangerous he said) but was the only way to get it home without paying for a tow truck.
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I am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
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