Start - Chevrolet - Classic - Caprice :: 1975 Hard Startup Despite Of New Battery And Fuel Tank Full
Jan 21, 2011
I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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On my 86 caprice classic. the gas Gauge jumps to full when i turn the key even when car is started but its only like a gallon of gas in there is it the sending unit the ground or something else and is there any way to test it.
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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First it was the gas pedal then the distributer cap and then what I thought was the starter so when there's no spark going to it it wants to start up just fine the starter hits the flywheel without it slipping then when it does get spark the starter is constantly slipping and doesn't want to hit the flywheel right.
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Last summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
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Last year, around Jan/Feb, our temperatures dropped down to about -30F, and I had a weird issue where my brakes literally froze. I couldn't push them at all. I let the car sit for a few minutes, and started slowly pumping the brakes, and eventually got them freed up.
A few months later, the brake line going to the rear popped. I eventually got it replaced. Then a few months later, the front brakes started scraping and squealing, and so I replaced the front pads and calipers about two weeks ago.
Now, the other day I was slowing down to make a turn, and my brakes completely went out. When they did, I heard a pop from up by the engine. I pulled over, lifted the hood, and there was brake fluid covering my hood, abs unit, and a small amount on the engine.
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I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
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I recently bought a used 2015 F250. When the fuel level reached 1/4 tank it became hard to start. Sometimes up to 6 seconds of cranking to get it to start. I filled it up with fresh diesel and it fired up as soon as I turned the key. A week later the problem returned, this time I was above 1/2 tank. I run the recommended additives, I changed both fuel filters, but it didn't work. I have only had the truck 3 weeks, and it still has a warranty. There are no fault codes, and the truck run great once started. What could be wrong.
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Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
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This has happened to me 4 times now in the 7 years I've owned my car. It happened so infrequently I thought the problem was the pump's sensor was not working properly. However now it's happened twice the last two times I've tried to fill up. On Friday my son was supposed to fill the car and could only get 1 gallon in and the fuel pump kept clicking off as if the car is full of gas. The bars never moved and I thought the problem was the pump. Then today, Sunday 2 days later, I decided to go ahead and fill it up. I have 250 miles to drive and want a full tank of gas. The tank shows 3 bars. I started fueling and it clicked off at 1 gallon. So I pulled the pump trigger again and tried to force more fuel in and it stopped and wouldn't add anymore than 1.7 gallons.
So now I have a long drive tomorrow and I can't figure out why the pump is clicking off as if the tank is full yet it can't be because I drove 250 miles since my son tried to put gas in and it's showing I have 3 bars.
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I generally average north of 50mpg on a regular basis. Yet, my cruising range is always somewhere around 300~ miles for a full tank.
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I am the original owner of a 337 with 292,800 miles, that's correct. I recently have had a fuel cutoff problem when the fuel tank gets less than 1/3 full. So I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter thinking that would solve the problem. It still stalls with a low fuel tank. It runs fine with more than a 1/2 tank. I have a Vagcom and no issues there.
Mystified at what could be the cause. Possibly fuel pressure regulator or vacuum line, is there a check valve somewhere in the fuel system that could be sticking, or what about an issue with the EVAP system? By the way this car still looks great, has been to the track many times as well as autocrossed, and still has the original clutch. Way to go VW. My race car is a spec miata.
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So I'm now on my second week with this 2012 Prius and still trying to learn how to roll in it.
I filled up my very first tank yesterday (dealer gave me a full tank when I bought it) and the miles remaining display said 424 miles after I filled up. Does it display 424 on all Priuses by default?
The first tank gave me right around that many miles before I filled up - the miles remaining display said I had 9 miles left so I got too scared to see if I could go farther. But when I filled it, I only filled just under 10 gallons - does that mean there's more miles for me to drive, despite that remaining miles meter?
And...am I getting pretty bad fuel economy?
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Full tank and the gauge reads empty. Has happened to me a few times. Occurs after a fillup and disappears after the car is left to sit for a while off. I would hate for this to happen on a long drive. Dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the issue. Am wondering if this might be related to the hiccup in some way. Also, am wondering if this is a fuse issue.
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The computer apparently calculates the fuel economy per trip (or a series of trips if the car is stopped less than 2 hours) but I don't know how to get it to display the fuel economy for the tank full. Normally I'd reset the computer upon refilling but since it calculates per trip it doesn't calculate per tank. Fortunately the fuel gauge seems to be pretty accurate and each mark is approx 1 gal so I can do a quick approximation but I'm used to having the car do the tankful calculation. BTW, I reset on MFA 1, I've never reset on MFA 2 and that doesn't show tankful economy either.
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I'm new to the Gen 1.
All has been well in just over a month of driving the car and about 3300 miles logged. The 12v, Aux battery was dead from the car sitting on the lot for so long (I replaced with a new OEM Toyota 12v battery) After a week of the car experiencing dim headlights, and various other electronics
No codes or CEL though.
Now that the 12v battery has been replaced, the car runs exceptionally well, aside from an intermittent fuel gauge issue where it only reads full bars (completely full) if I let the tank get to empty (Flashing single bar) or close to that. If I fill the tank from s
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I just bought my 2012 Elantra Limited from the dealer today . The fuel gauge showed about two bars, a quarter tank I estimated. However when I went to fuel it, the pump clicked off after about 1 gallon, indicating the tank was full.
That was odd so I just figured there was some air in the tank or in the hose, so I tried adding some more fuel. I got about a half gallon more added when it clicked off again. Well, I know you're not supposed to top off the tank so I tried to add more. Got about two gallons added when it clicked off. I stopped fueling at that point for fear of causing damage.
My fuel gauge now shows a little less than half full. How can that be? Is there something I can do to fix this?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. If I fill the tank to full, or close to full I will have a fuel smell in the car until the tank runs under 3/4. If I keep it under 3/4 I usally do not get the smell in the car.
The dealer could not figure it out and I still have this issue. It seems the smell is more in the front of the cabin then the rear. It just could seem that way since the smell is very strong. I have to park the car with the windows open.
There are no fuel leaks, no fuel on the ground, no drips, and the no spillage when I filled the tank.
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