I got a 96 caprice sedan...have very little heat at idle but pretty good as long as I am moving or above idle rpms..put in new stat....ran water through core...appears to have had new water pump recently...check heater box for blockage..its clear and all flaps are working as they should....I am at my wits end....
View 2 RepliesI'm using a compressor clutch kit to try and pull off the compressor clutch plate from my '96 LT1. Using the tools I got the clutch plate almost all the way off but then it stalled. I've broken every one of the remover screws trying to get it off the last bit. I'm considering picking up a 3 jaw puller to get the job done.
View 5 Replies1996 Plymouth Voyager ... My Van has about 90,000 miles and runs good. The heat worked great last year but is just blowing cold air out this year. I do not know where to start looking for the problem. I do not have a over-heating problem and it blows air out just as strong as before this problem. I had to replace the battery last month, could that have anything to do with this problem?
View 3 Replies1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 RepliesI have an 07 prius with 105k miles. It had no warning lights on and drives great with 1 exception. The heat gets cold at idle, it works great as soon as i drive or if the ICE starts to charge the battery. I believe the problem was the ICE not coming on to heat it back up, it would only come on if the battery drops not if the air temp drops.
Then my mechanic replaced the pump on the coolant heat storage tank and it made no difference so he put the old one back on. However since then the ICE will occasionally kick on for heat even if the battery is charged (like it should be) but not frequently enough and sometimes not at all.
My son has a 1994 Celica GT with the 2.2 5S-FE engine. Recently told me his heat didn't work very well, he had mentioned it last year but due to extreme cold we've been having I decided I would look at it for him. So anyway, I started by pulling the thermostat thinking it was probably stuck open or possibly someone had removed it completely, well there was one in there and it was closed so I tested it in boiling water, worked fine, replaced it anyway.
So then I checked behind and under the dash, thinking maybe something was opening or closing completely, but they are connected and operating, when I move the controls inside I can hear the doors moving and closing and all the linkages under the dash are connected and operating. Still no heat, so I figured the heater core was clogged since the return hose didn't seem to be getting hot, or the heater control valve was bad, pulled the heater core hoses, checked the heater control valve, control valve worked fine and was not plugged. Flushed the heater core, nice clean antifreeze, I then checked it with air, manual said put 6 psi on the input and make sure it was coming out of the return, which it was.
Reconnected everything, bled the air, still nothing, took the hoses off and connected the return hose to the heater control valve, bypassing the heater core, both hoses got hot. Sure seemed like a clogged heater core, did the air test again with 2 psi, still made its way out the return side. Reconnected everything again, still same issue, return hose never got hot. So while it was running hot with thermostat open, I removed the return hose, nothing coming out of the core, then I revved the engine and it started coming out, reconnected it and ran car at 3000 RPM, finally a little heat out of the vent, about 115 degrees by thermometer placed in vent, as soon as I let it idle the temp fell back to 80 within a minute or so.
Now I figured the water pump impeller was worn/corroded or was slipping on the shaft, so I pulled the whole thing apart. ( I should mention that the entire cooling system is very clean I don't see any corrosion anywhere) Any of you that have done this knows what a pain in the butt the whole job is, anyway, when I got it apart I was surprised to see that the impeller looked like new and was definitely NOT slipping on the shaft... what the heck???
When I took the pump off the housing I noticed the housing had a lot of wear, it look as if the previous owner let the water pump fail to the point that the bearing wore enough that the impeller ground down the raised boss inside the housing, I though AH-HA, this has got to be the problem, water is not actually pumping/circulating inside the pump as efficiently as it should, hence the reason I only get coolant into the heater core at high RPM. So i replaced the housing, the water pump, and while I was in there I did all the oil seals, and the timing belt. Well I got it all back together, fired it up added coolant, let the engine come up to temp, bled air, still NO HEAT!
2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 1997 528i with 285,000 KMS...the radiator, water pump and thermostat have all been replaced (within the last 2 years). The temperature outside has dipped to -15 C and I am now experiencing a problem with the inside cabin vents not blowing hot air through the vents. The car warms ups and the temp needle pins to 12 o`clock without any problems.
The vents blow cold air at idle (with temp needle at 12 o`clock) and them warm air when driving the vehicle. I have checked coolant level-it`s o.k, the fan speed setting ( hi and low) work fine, and the wheel located at the middle of the dash vents can be adjusted fine ( red and blue)...I have tried turning off and on the unit, adjusted temp setting up and down and tried to turn the wheel slowly (blue to red) but still not giving off heat as it should.
Well of course with the coldest weekend of the year coming up my heat stops working.
When I'm driving it pulls heat off the engine just fine but stopped it just blows cold air.
My 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
View 2 RepliesI have to admit this is for my 2001 Civic EX. She warms up easily in summer and winter, never overheats, has a new thermostat and flushed radiator and gives plenty of heat when driving....but as soon as you stop at a light or sign no heat...drive off and you have heat. I was thinking clogged radiator or heater core...hoping it's the former.
View 14 RepliesMy wife has a 02 Solara V6. It has been a cold spring and now it has warmed up and in the 80's and a problem has reared its head. Engine runs fine, will warm up normally and while driving will stay at a normal halfway temp.
Problem is it will heat up at idle, say at a light. The fans run, but half assed. They'll kick in with the AC on and the temps will drop, but then they switch off to half assed speed again. I will probably take a multimeter and measure the voltage at each fan plug when they are running slow.
The weird part is both fans go full bore when the AC is on and then slow after about 4-5 mins.
2009 Impala, 6 cyl., 32k miles, with the engine warm and running below 1000 rpm I only get cool air entering the cabin. As soon as I rev up to 1000 rpm and above heat enters the cabin. The coolant level was a little low and I added about 2 cups. I haven't driven it since adding the coolant but I doubt that is an issue. Since the day I bought this vehicle (at about 16k miles) I could detect a whine sound coming from the engine compartment at start up. This may have something to do with this problem, but until just recently the heater did work fine. The A/C works fine. Thinking maybe a water pump?
View 4 Replies2002 Passat v6 - climatronic control...
I have just cold air blowing at idle and under load. I have read posts and checked the following: temp remains at 190, heater coil hoses-both are hot and removed the dash to see if the flapper door (red arm) was moving-it is. Any other things I can check?
My idle seems to always be somewhat rough whenever I put the heat on in cold weather. While in drive I'll come to a red light, heat will be on and I'll stop. The. my idle will bounce down then back up. I shut heat off to test and it only does it while heats on.
View 5 RepliesI have a 09 santa fe and it just started doing this. when we start it and let it warm up it will get the normal temp and will blow hot air but when we start to drive the thermostat goes back down to cold and it will blow cold air. I have had a problem similar to this before and taken it back to the dealership and they replace the same thing over and over. but this time its not fixing itself and it is staying like this. usually it will fix itself.
View 5 RepliesMy car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?
View 4 RepliesSo I turn the heat on, and my engine feels like it's going to stall out, the RPM's drop by 200. What could this be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Excursion Limited with a 6.0 PSD. Recently I have noticed my temp, I have a Scan Gauge II, slowly climbing when I am idling. On the highway it runs anywhere from 175-205 depending on time of year and load I'm pulling. Lately I have noticed it starting to climb while sitting in a parking lot at idle after coming off a steady speed run. Temp goes from about 175 up to about 205 just at idle. It is a slow creep up not a dramatic change. I have checked my coolant levels and it is full. I have made sure the front of the radiator is clear.
View 8 RepliesI changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and had a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and Porsche Piwis Tester II a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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