Impala - Chevrolet :: 2009 - No Heat In Cabin At Idle
Feb 4, 2012
2009 Impala, 6 cyl., 32k miles, with the engine warm and running below 1000 rpm I only get cool air entering the cabin. As soon as I rev up to 1000 rpm and above heat enters the cabin. The coolant level was a little low and I added about 2 cups. I haven't driven it since adding the coolant but I doubt that is an issue. Since the day I bought this vehicle (at about 16k miles) I could detect a whine sound coming from the engine compartment at start up. This may have something to do with this problem, but until just recently the heater did work fine. The A/C works fine. Thinking maybe a water pump?
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I have a 2003 Impala LS with around 114,000 miles. I noticed today that the control switch that turns on the AC or heat is not fully working right. My switch has 5 levels, and on levels 1 and 2 nothing happens. But when I switch to levels 3-4 or 5 it works just fine.
My question is is fixing this going to involve removing the entire dash from the car? My guess it's a contact issue, and figure it might be pricy to get repaired.
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My 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
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I've been trying to get her up and running for awhile now in order to sell her. I bought the car from a neighbor who never drove it (only 50k miles on it) and my dad had a great idea to get some new parts for it...I just wanted the car as it was... So we replaced the original carb for a newer carb and my father did all he wanted to do to it (I do know he took off the distributor, did some thing with the clutch, and replaced the fuel line to the distributor).
Well, when all was said and done (after a year and a half), the car is back up and running BUT when it sits idle it stalls. It will only stay running when you keep on the accelerator to rev the engine. As soon as you let up, the RPMs drop and she stalls. He's not sure why it's doing it, and I'm even less sure.
What are some reasons/causes/possible fixes for this?
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I have a 2009 Chevy Impala. It has 28,000 miles and since November my gas mileage averages between 20-24. I took the car to the dealership and they say nothing is wrong. This car was titled in Hawaii. I live in Wisconsin. Could the colder weather have something to do with the mileage or what else could it be?
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So I have a 2008 Chevy Impala LS that hasn't given me any real problems. I had some battery troubles recently that were the result of me leaving the parking/security lights on for 10 consecutive hours, but overnight-charged the battery and was good-to-go after that. But it seems like RIGHT after that was when the whining noise started.
It seems to be related to my power-steering system. I know this since the whining seems to pick up with acceleration and turning. However, I checked my power steering fluid and it did not appear to be depleted at all. I did notice, however, that it seems to be a light greenish color...which from doing a google search, I've gotten the impression that it's probably not supposed to be that color.
What exactly is going on here?
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I have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
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2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?
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I have an 05 Impala. When I turn the car off, the heat gauge stays where it is. When I start it up again, it stays there until the car warms up and then goes up from where it was. I have found that by turning the key off and on quickly several times it goes down each time to bottom. What can cause the gauge to stick like that?
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I took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
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Seems below 20 my car cannot defrost the windows or heat the cabin. It has been 0-10 the last couple days here in SE WI. The coolant temp gauge is straight up right in the middle. Some how coolant isn't flowing through the heater core. Could this be a design failure? It doesn't seem to matter what settings are on dash. I have tried with ac on and off, recirculation on and off, full defrost on, fan on all speeds, have also tried a combination of cracked windows open.
Are other people experiencing this as well? Is a call to the dealer in order?
For ref car is 2014 tdi se with 34,000miles.
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Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
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I just bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado , have only had for a week and have noticed an irregular fluctuation in idle, also the transmission has lack of a better term jarred a few times and seems to downshift rough sometimes. The irregular idle seems to be worse when the ac is on, I can hear the compressor kick on and off alot. And just once I was driving and tried to accelerate and it didn't want to very much. Factory warranty is out and dealer didn't give option for extended warranty. They have agreed to look at it but aren't willing to do much other than clean injectors and throttle body.
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2006 Acura MDX w/160k miles running like new but cabin heat levels began to fall off. Service at dealer (who also performed all vehicles scheduled service) revealed 2 cracked cast iron cylinders in the motor allowing coolant to leak by and not reach the heater core. Leaking coolant fried two catalytic converters and remedy is a used engine replacement and new converters.
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My 2007 Prius has stopped producing cabin heat; the blower fan is working. I have no dash warning indicators. I am in an area where the are no Toyota dealers and need to drive 160 miles to home and shop. It has just turned cold. Why and if I am ok to drive to the shop?
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I have been lately feeling that the engine heat is penetrating to the foot area of the cabin even when heater or blower is not running. Engine is running at normal temp as I monitor temp gauge all the time when I am driving.
Pulled out the carpet around clutch and surrounding foot area to see what is going on and found out 2 heater core pipes are running hot and dissipating a quite bit of heat when the blower is in off and cabin temp controller is in cold position. Is this normal, I believe when the temp controller is in cold position there should not even be hot coolant running to heater core from the engine? Could heater tap or temp control valve that stops engine hot coolant running to cabin/heater core be faulty? If so where are they located?
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My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
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My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
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The dealer has tested every system for leaks and can't find any. They have changed the filters. They have contacted Nissan to see if there were other complaints of this nature and there weren't. They did a smoke test to detect any leaks that weren't visible to the naked eye and found nothing. This problem has not occurred at the dealership only when I'm driving but my husband, daughter, son-in-law and car pool buddy have all been in the car when the smell was evident. It's very strong and smells like you're in a gas station with the windows open.
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94 ford f150. I have replaced a leaking heater core and replaced all heater hoses, radiator hoses and water pump. I do not have any coolant leaks at this time. The problem is: when operating the vent or heat, there is a residual coolant smell. Is it possible that the vents were coated with coolant when it was leaking, thus still producing the smell? If so, is there anyway to clean out the vent system?
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Where the cabin air intake location is? I'm not talking about the air filter.
My 97 F150 has some sort of exhaust leak and it's coming into the cabin when the heat is on. I want to tape up the cabin air intake port but I don't know where it is. On later models, it's on the right passenger side near the cowl of the hood. Where is it on the 97?
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