94 ford f150. I have replaced a leaking heater core and replaced all heater hoses, radiator hoses and water pump. I do not have any coolant leaks at this time. The problem is: when operating the vent or heat, there is a residual coolant smell. Is it possible that the vents were coated with coolant when it was leaking, thus still producing the smell? If so, is there anyway to clean out the vent system?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Taurus. I have noticed a faint knocking sound for about 6 months. I took it in and the mechanic said ' what noise? '. Then it got louder so I took ot back in and he ssid 'bad water pump' I had another mechanic friend check, and he said the water pump was fine. Plus, I've never had any overheating . a 3rd mechanic said "could be loose torque converter bolts." It sounds like metal clunking on metal under the hood.. rpms, speed, & temperature make no difference. Occasionally get a smell of coolant inside the cabin . I'll attach audio of the noise.
View 15 RepliesAs soon as I turn heater on I smells coolant, I checked all over inside cabin there is no coolant liquid inside, I'm wondering if the heater itself is leaking or there is another problem.
View 3 RepliesFirst background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
I just bought 2003 king ranch with a 5.4 it started burning coolant and the heat was coming on then while the engine was at operating temp would blow cold air. Then the temp gauge would start to rise,once it got to the top the heat would start to come on and the temp gauge would then go down to normal.I started by changing the thermostat which didn't work.
Then i figured it was air in the system I kept burping the truck at idle but it never worked, it kept burping while driving all the coolant out that i put in back out finally i took that cap off the one that clicks when you tighten it and replaced it with a cap that tightens down all the way and doesn't click. Every morning I check the reservoir fill it up to the proper level and so far so good.
I have a 2006 chrysler town &country. It started trying to overheat but always cooled itself down to now overheating. My fans are working. I hear a like Gurgling noise. I can smell the coolant when i turn on my heat and it goes hot then cold. Not sure what's going on but it's pretty frustrating this a lease vehicle. I've put antifreeze in it several times. Not sure what to do.
View 6 RepliesI was wondering if there is a vent setting to just blow air through the cabin or is it required to set a temperature to have the fan blow air?
View 13 RepliesI have a 1993 Celica GTS 2.2L manual trans. A hose blew on the way to work, got it towed home and repaired the hose. I also checked the Thermostat, it worked fine, replaced it anyways with a new one.
The problem is when it is under stress, in any gear, it will heat up past regular operating temp (all the way to red if left long enough) but as soon as I engage the clutch and put it in neutral, it drops back down to normal operating temp. It will never overheat at idle, only under stress.
I have checked the Radiator, done a flush, it seems to flow fine with no blockages. Also checked the rad cap, no issues. I have gotten the air bubbles out of the cooling system, that did not work either. The only other thing I can think it could be is a degrading water pump. It is still pushing coolant through, but not at a fast enough rate due to degraded blades??Or maybe I have missed something on the Radiator and it could be not cooling the water enough? By the way, this whole engine was re-built 42,000 kms ago, ran like a dream until this happened.
Why the outside air is coming in even though circular is on?
View 2 RepliesMy 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
2000 F150 4.6 i have an anti freeze smell and coming from my AC vents, stronger from Passenger side vents. I am losing some anti freeze from the reservoirs, where should i look for the leak?
View 7 RepliesGetting a fuel smell especially when 2004 3.0 escape is idling. Is there a replaceable evap filter or maybe the pcv valve?
View 3 RepliesI don't have my manual handy, wondering what the normal operating temp of the coolant is for a 1.8T B5? I believe it is 190, but want confirmation.
View 1 RepliesWhere the cabin air intake location is? I'm not talking about the air filter.
My 97 F150 has some sort of exhaust leak and it's coming into the cabin when the heat is on. I want to tape up the cabin air intake port but I don't know where it is. On later models, it's on the right passenger side near the cowl of the hood. Where is it on the 97?
2003 Pontiac Montana 3.4 L
225000 Kms
Intake Gasket replaced already at 60,000 kms (yes a while ago)
Recently, noticed a major external coolant leak at the front of the motor (passenger side). It only leaks when at operating temperature and under pressure. It does not leak when you first start the engine, it takes a while before it leaks.
I replaced the rad cap, just in case it was faulty. Upon the second test, after getting it running good and hot, it leaked again. But only when at operating temp. It is not overheating.
Problem is, as the coolant is leaking out, the main drive belt is splashing the coolant all over the place and thus I am having a heck of a time pinpointing if it is a head gasket or intake manifold leak or perhaps somewhere else.
I can't take things apart to get a better view, because it needs to be running at operating temp to get the leak. If I pull anything apart for a better view, I won't be able to start the engine to reproduce the leak.
I have a 2004 Ford F150 4X4 5.4L...and lately, have been smelling gasoline inside the cabin. The usual troubleshooting hasn't given me any leads...
View 6 RepliesI just picked up a 78 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M in it this past friday. I am absolutely in LOVE with her. She is a great solid truck. One issue I am having though is that she blows hot air out the vents over the hump but nothing is coming out the top of the dash. I am guessing that i will have to take the dash off and clean out the box check the door etc. What did you do to rectify?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Montana. Recently I have no heat/air movement via the defrost vent. All other setting work along with fan. Plenty of heat when set on floor or dash vent. Just doesn't work with the defrost setting in either alone or with the floor.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed a strange problem that makes it next to impossible for me to use his truck unless the vents are off or I have both windows all the way down with it on. It smells like it has a fuel leak of some sort and in the cab of the truck it smells bad while driving and gets worse when sitting still, to me it smells like gas and when I open the hood on his truck after idling about 5 minutes or so I can smell it in there so i know its somewhere under the hood but for the life of me I can't see anywhere where its leaking or anything like that but I can smell it all darn day. His truck is an 05 F-150 with a 5.4 and I'd like to figure this out before it becomes a real big problem. I've worked with fuel injected cars and trucks before but I have little knowledge of the mod engines at all. And he is still driving it like that and I just wanna make sure it either is not gas or is just something simple I'm overlooking.
View 12 RepliesTook truck to a mechanic he advised me that the no heat was because of high back pressure in engine...never heard of this before, is this a correct diagnosis? No heat, air blows through all vents, defrosters.
View 1 Replies