Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Gas Smell From Vent When Idling
Jan 6, 2014
Getting a fuel smell especially when 2004 3.0 escape is idling. Is there a replaceable evap filter or maybe the pcv valve?
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Jan 6, 2014
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Ford Escape :: 2004 - Burning Smell When Idling At A Stop Light
So every once in a while, probably a dozen times, over the winter I am idling at a stop light and smell a bad burning smell. It doesn't matter if I have my heat on, or if I switch the temp all the way to cold. It smells like burning rubber or plastic. So far there doesn't seem to be a common factor involved. Doesn't matter the temp outside or how long I have been driving the car. Haven't noticed a loss in fluids, no puddles under my car. And it's not a sweet antifreeze smell.
2004 Ford Escape
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2010 - Check Engine Light Came On / Randomly Went Off While Idling
So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2007 V6 - Mystery Rattle In Crankshaft Area When Idling
2007 Ford Escape XLT V6, ~60K miles .... My wife has this rattle in her escape, has had it about a month now. The rattle happens when idling, is less noticeable when driving the car, but might just be drowned out by road noise, etc. Revving the engine in neutral doesn't seem to affect the rattle at all as far as I can tell.
I listened around the engine compartment with a stethoscope for awhile and couldn't pinpoint anything so I told her to bring it in and have it looked at. She brought it in to "Brake King", they do full service mechanic work, but i'm not sure how great they are, but they are flexible about bringing the car in and looking at it right away and my wife can't be without her car for very long since she uses it for work. They said it need the sway bar rods and bushings replaced (they did this and the noise didn't go away). I was pretty suspect about it since the rattle happens when idling, but i'm no expert so I figured they knew what they were doing.
We brought it back and the guy said that the noise was internal to the engine and asked about where we get the oil done. (I do the oil myself and always use Mobil 1, I really don't think it is an oil issue. Maybe the oil filter since we don't change that every time, but again... They did a free synthetic oil change + filter change and that didn't work.
All the while i've been doing research and I decided to go ahead and remove the drive belt to see if the noise would go away when I did ( this whole time I was suspecting something on the drive belt). So I removed it and the noise did go away for the minute or so I ran it without the belt. This pretty much confirmed to me that it was something on the drive belt. I replaced the tensioner since I read that that could be a suspect and they are "relatively" cheap and easy to do. That did NOT work. (I also broke the bolt that holds it on and had a helluva time trying to find a replacement, but that is a whole other story).
So while I had the splash guard off, I listened some more. The rattle really seems to me to be coming from the crankshaft pully area rather than from the A/C compressor area or the alternator area. If it was the C/S pulley, wouldn't it still make the rattle even with the belt off? Looking in the Haynes manual, the C/S pulley doesn't necessarily look like that easy of a replacement (especially if I'm not sure it will actually fix the problem). Anyny opinions as to whether that might be the problem, and if so if a DIYer can do the replacement?
Here is the video. When watching it live, I swear I see a bit of a wobble on the pulley compared to the other pulleys on the belt line, but in the video, you can't really see it...
Video : Mystery rattle ford escape 2007 - YouTube
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Exhaust Smell In Interior Upon Startup And Especially If Using Remote Start
2007 Escape XLT 3.0 AWD. During the winter there can be quite the exhaust smell in the interior upon startup and especially if using the remote start. During driving the smells will clear out and appear again with an extended stop but not as bad as initial cold startups. I realize the hotter the engine and exhaust components the smaller the leaks become. Hopefully not an exhaust manifold leak.
Looking for a way to find where a leak may happen. I saw a video of a garage using "smoke" pushed up the tailpipe to find leaks. Or any other techniques or similar situations.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 2WD Stalls Out - No Codes
2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Headlights Always On When Running
Lights come on when the ignition is on, regardless of the position of the headlight switch. They shut off about 1 minute after the engine is shut off. The warning chime dings the entire time until the lights shut off.
I want the light to work with the switch and not come on all the time.
It is not just the daytime running lamps. High beams also work with the headlight switch in the off position, ignition on.
Ignition off, the headlights switch functions as it should.
I bought the Escape about 1 month ago. Dealer purchase so I don't know how to get a hold of the previous owner.
It only has 51,000 miles, very clean and all service records.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Cannot Seem To Get Air Bled From Brakes
I had to replace all brakes because the bleeders were rusted in, wouldn't come out. So I bled and re-bled, but the brake pedal is still squashy and goes down too far if I have to stop from any speed. I even used my vacuum pump for evacuating air conditioning systems, pulled quarts of fluid through all the brakes-definitely no 2004 vintage fluid in there any more! Yes, I made sure to never pull the master cylinder reservoir empty, which would let in air. I always start from right aft and end up at left front, in order of bleed first. No leaks, the fluid level is always where I left it on previous session. I must be missing something...How can there still be air?
View 14 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Stuck In Limp-In Mode?
Wife come home the other day after leaving for work with the truck no going past 20KM to 30KM.. After some investigating it seems to be in Limp - In Mode. There was a Check-Engine light & after further investigation found a Vac hose with a leak, repaired this & test drove. Same issue.... then there was a loud hissing sound from the engine area so I investigate & now found the EGR sensor (DPEF pressure sensor ) had blow a hose & fried the sensor.
New sensor was replace along with 2-hoses cleared the engine light but the truck still will not go more then 20KM or 30KM max.. I checked the EGR valve with vac pump & engine stalls or so the valve is good. I have left the neg cable off the batt to try & clear the Limp-In mode without success. Looking for a way to clear the limp-in mode or do I need to clear it with a scan tool?
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Loss Of Power With 6 Cylinder?
My escape struggles to reach 30 mph.. throttle position sensor code when scanned.Replaced the sensor but still barely any power check engine light hasnt come back on.
View 9 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 XLT V6 - Power Loss / Vehicle Won't Go Over 30 MPH
I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 and I am experiencing a major loss of power in the vehicle. It idles smooth at about 1000rpm's but when you drive it , the vehicle won't go over 30mph and has a significant miss to it. I replaced the fuel filter, put in some Seafoam and took it for a drive and it still did not have any power and I blew out the EGR valve on the test drive. I replaced the EGR valve and the problem still remains. I hooked up a handheld computer to it and I got a P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0316 and a P0355 error codes.
View 1 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Doors Won't Unlock Either With Key Fob Or Keys
I noticed the lights were staying on after the switch is turned off and engine off. I thought the lights might just stay on for a few minutes, they were still on an hour later and now I can't unlock the doors with either the key fob or the key. Not sure what to do next.
View 4 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Alternator Went Out - Hood Won't Open
My son's escape has been parked for about 6 mos... alternator went out and I refused to pay to fix it due to some disciplinary issues with him. Anyhow, yesterday I went out to go look at it and the hood won't open. When I parked it I took out the battery and shut the hood. Never had an issue opening the hood prior.
When I pull the lever, its real tight - like the cable is not really moving or if it is, it cant be much. I'm afraid it might break if I keep pulling. I tried having him pull it while I pushed and pulled on the hood, still stuck. I have no clue why or how it is stuck, but wondering on any way to get it open. I can't really see in there...through the grill or under the hood.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 V6 - AC Defrost Only - Vacuum Leak
I have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.
The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.
I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 3.0l Limited - Airbag Code 36
What airbag code 36 is and how to fix it?
Its a 2004 3.0L limited .....
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - P0403 Code Came Up For EGR Solenoid
P0403 code that came up on our 2004 Escape 3.0.
Weekend before last I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it and the pickup screen out, and replaced the gasket (switching to full synthetic has been a double edged sword with the leaks that are popping up...); put in new plugs new upper intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body and manifold out. All vacuum hoses inline with the EGR solenoid have also been replaced since the light went on.
While driving the following day the check engine light (CEL) came on and when checked at pep boys read P0403 (no other codes for low EGR flow, etc.). Now, the EGR solenoid is the newest non-regular maintenance item under that hood because the same code came up a couple of years ago (a new solenoid from pep boys fixed that lickety split) so I wasn't overly concerned that it had popped up again, but a bit frustrated that the solenoid only lasted as long as it did. Also, since the light popped up, I have replaced a couple of vacuum lines with some generic 4mm ID (5/32", I think) rubber vacuum hose, but that just headed off what looked like some potential future problem leaks.
Now, here I am a couple of weeks later having tried 4.5 new solenoids (Amazon sent me one with the wrong wiring harness clip so I couldn't verify that it was connected when it didn't work), and thrown some other "just in case" parts at it (new EGR valve and flow sensor, but these may be returned, but may just end up keeping them on, we'll see how things work out). I'm getting a solid reading from the hot lead on the solenoid harness at idle and during static revving, but I can't seem to get anything on the ground pin.
I've cleaned the connections and the larger pin block going into the top of the firewall to no avail. Should this read as a fluttering ground signal all the time, is it only grounded exactly when it wants the solenoid to open the EGR? What can I do to confirm that it should read grounded so I can know one way or the other whether there is a break in the line? I can't find my multimeter (or just dreamed that I picked one up last year). I'm also curious as to whether or not there's a good way to bench test the solenoid. I don't really get a reaction when I hook it up to 12v directly like I do with a vacuum solenoid from my Saab where there's an audible "click."
Is the wire harness for the solenoid a known weak spot? I've found two potential donors at the local junk yard that I can cut the wires out of to play around with/solder a new one in if that's something that the consensus deems may solve my cause. I also had an ABS light come on not too long after the CEL, but when I reset the CEL the ABS light went away and never came back (it only came on when I hit a big expansion joint on a highway bridge, no braking issues since it's been reset and ABS seems to be fully functional, per gravel road test). I still can't seem to read any ground signal at the solenoid harness at idle or with throttle input. I'd like to fix it, but don't want to start digging into the wires blind.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Front Tires Wearing On The Inside
I have an 04 ranger with 31x10.5x15 mud tires on it and the front tires are wearing on the inside real bad if you look at it the tire look tilted in on the tops...
View 1 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Airbag Light Is Blinking - Code 37?
Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
View 2 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Code PO136 For Bank 1 Sensor 2
Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
View 3 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 XLT - CEL Popped Up For P0136 / O2 Sensor Code
2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 V6 - Code P0403 EGR Circuit Fault
I'm pulling a P0403 EGR circuit fault on a 2004 v6 Escape.
Last night I changed out the EGR solenoid. Cleared the code and drove around for a while, got on the highway and cruised for a few miles and everything seemed fine. Turn the car off and back on and the code showed up again.
My next step will be to check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I don't do a lot of auto repair.
With my multimeter I will check for 12 volts. But from what I understand I can not check ground as the PCM sends ground to the solenoid to activate it. How should I check the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid?