Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 2WD Stalls Out - No Codes


Nov 16, 2015

2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.

Problem: 2 possibly related

1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.

Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.

Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:

Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes

What I've done:

- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.

I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.

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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.

My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.

No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.

Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.

Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.

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She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.

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Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.

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