My escape struggles to reach 30 mph.. throttle position sensor code when scanned.Replaced the sensor but still barely any power check engine light hasnt come back on.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 and I am experiencing a major loss of power in the vehicle. It idles smooth at about 1000rpm's but when you drive it , the vehicle won't go over 30mph and has a significant miss to it. I replaced the fuel filter, put in some Seafoam and took it for a drive and it still did not have any power and I blew out the EGR valve on the test drive. I replaced the EGR valve and the problem still remains. I hooked up a handheld computer to it and I got a P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0316 and a P0355 error codes.
View 1 RepliesSo heres the story..........'02 Escape, 179K miles, just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago, ever since then I've smelled oil burning when the car starts up and every now and then after exiting the car. Also have had the check engine light on intermittently for the EGR insufficient flow for the past few months. It comes and goes whenever it wants. Today Wifey called me and said something was wrong with the car, I drove it home (about 26 miles). The car runs fine as shifts through the gears, but as soon as it gets a load put on it, it cant pull hard like it used to and it gets a high pitched/squealy whistle similar to a turbo that's spooled up.
Its hard to say where its coming from but from what I can tell I'd say somewhere under the hood near the glove box. (that's the only way I can think of to describe it). There's a big long hill right outside her work that I wasn't sure I was gonna make it up. Car just didn't have any power and couldn't decide what gear to be in as RPMs were too high in a lower gear but wouldn't pull in the higher gear. Car pulls hard off the bottom but falls flat in the midrange. I was thinking maybe clogged cat but what would the whistling sound be?
So my wife's 2005 escape has been slowly losing power over the past 6 months or so. I regularly change the oil, tried new spark plugs, new air filter and still it's lazy. I know it's not a race machine but it struggles on hills.
This winter it was having problems starting unless the accelerator was pushed to the floor. After a cleaning of the Idle control valve all was well again. It has roughly 72,000 miles on it and uses .5-1qt of oil between changes.
I had a misfire and my CEL came on had it read and it said cylinder 4 was misfiring and that there was a misfire in the first 1,000 RPM's. I replaced the COP and plug and now I'm getting terrible MPG. I tried to reset the PCM by removing the Neg. battery connection and it seemed to work for 4 days now my MPG has gone bad again. It seems to run smooth/good.
View 1 RepliesA couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
View 7 RepliesI am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
View 2 RepliesBrought home tonight a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L 24 Valve V6. Bought it from a mechanic who's customer didn't want to put any more money into it. Has 185000 miles on it and it throwing the P0303 & P0171 codes. Cylinder 3 miss and Lean condition bank1.
Mechanic thinks it is a valve seat in the cylinder head next to the fire wall. Before I start replacing the cylinder heads with new remanufactured heads I plan on doing a compression test and leak down test.?
Having 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
During a highway trip three months ago, my 2004 Prius suddenly lost engine power, the red triangle Master Warning light came on accompanied by a warning sound, and then the Hybrid System Warning sign appeared on the Multifunction Display. I pulled off to the side of the road and stopped. I turned the car off and then tried turning it on again. Engine power was restored although the warning lights remained. We took a chance and carried on with our trip. The same sequence of events reoccurred about 10 times on our 1,300 km journey. I took the car to a Toyota dealer where they found a C2318 DTC. They checked the battery and the HEV fuse but could not locate the problem.
We returned home and on the way the same thing happened a few more times. My service manual noted that the description for C2318 is Low Voltage Error (Power Supply Malfunction) and the trouble areas are HEV fuse, IGCT relay, Wire harness or connector, or Auxiliary battery. Since the car was nearly 7 years old I thought I had nothing to lose by replacing the battery, which I did. However, on a short 150 km trip last week the problem appeared again, once while approaching our destination and once when we were almost home. There seems to be a pattern in that the problem appears every 150 km or so of highway driving. It has never done it while driving in the city.
ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
Our escape recently started loosing its power steering, once the engine is shut off the power steering is ok. Also some times you can feel a pulsing in the steering wheel. I've been doing some googling and it looks like the dealers are replacing the steering columns to fix the problem.
My question : is this the only fix or if something like some contacts being cleaned or maybe replacing a steering sensor of some kind is the fix.
2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
Lights come on when the ignition is on, regardless of the position of the headlight switch. They shut off about 1 minute after the engine is shut off. The warning chime dings the entire time until the lights shut off.
I want the light to work with the switch and not come on all the time.
It is not just the daytime running lamps. High beams also work with the headlight switch in the off position, ignition on.
Ignition off, the headlights switch functions as it should.
I bought the Escape about 1 month ago. Dealer purchase so I don't know how to get a hold of the previous owner.
It only has 51,000 miles, very clean and all service records.
I had to replace all brakes because the bleeders were rusted in, wouldn't come out. So I bled and re-bled, but the brake pedal is still squashy and goes down too far if I have to stop from any speed. I even used my vacuum pump for evacuating air conditioning systems, pulled quarts of fluid through all the brakes-definitely no 2004 vintage fluid in there any more! Yes, I made sure to never pull the master cylinder reservoir empty, which would let in air. I always start from right aft and end up at left front, in order of bleed first. No leaks, the fluid level is always where I left it on previous session. I must be missing something...How can there still be air?
View 14 RepliesWife come home the other day after leaving for work with the truck no going past 20KM to 30KM.. After some investigating it seems to be in Limp - In Mode. There was a Check-Engine light & after further investigation found a Vac hose with a leak, repaired this & test drove. Same issue.... then there was a loud hissing sound from the engine area so I investigate & now found the EGR sensor (DPEF pressure sensor ) had blow a hose & fried the sensor.
New sensor was replace along with 2-hoses cleared the engine light but the truck still will not go more then 20KM or 30KM max.. I checked the EGR valve with vac pump & engine stalls or so the valve is good. I have left the neg cable off the batt to try & clear the Limp-In mode without success. Looking for a way to clear the limp-in mode or do I need to clear it with a scan tool?
I noticed the lights were staying on after the switch is turned off and engine off. I thought the lights might just stay on for a few minutes, they were still on an hour later and now I can't unlock the doors with either the key fob or the key. Not sure what to do next.
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