Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Power Loss - Whistling / Squealing Sound
Mar 5, 2012
So heres the story..........'02 Escape, 179K miles, just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago, ever since then I've smelled oil burning when the car starts up and every now and then after exiting the car. Also have had the check engine light on intermittently for the EGR insufficient flow for the past few months. It comes and goes whenever it wants. Today Wifey called me and said something was wrong with the car, I drove it home (about 26 miles). The car runs fine as shifts through the gears, but as soon as it gets a load put on it, it cant pull hard like it used to and it gets a high pitched/squealy whistle similar to a turbo that's spooled up.
Its hard to say where its coming from but from what I can tell I'd say somewhere under the hood near the glove box. (that's the only way I can think of to describe it). There's a big long hill right outside her work that I wasn't sure I was gonna make it up. Car just didn't have any power and couldn't decide what gear to be in as RPMs were too high in a lower gear but wouldn't pull in the higher gear. Car pulls hard off the bottom but falls flat in the midrange. I was thinking maybe clogged cat but what would the whistling sound be?
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Just wanted to post a recent experience I had with the catalytic converter issues Escapes seem to be prone to. A friend has a 2003 Escape 4x4 with the 3.0 V-6 and automatic transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it, she bought it with 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
Recently it developed driveability issues: No power with a whistling noise and top speed of 10 M.P.H. I researched on here and her symptoms matched threads that came up using the search function. I told her I was pretty sure the front cat was bad and had plugged the rear cat, causing the issue. She took it to a local repair shop and confirmed my diagnosis. Their estimate for repair was north of $1,500.00. My neighbor and I were sure we could repair it cheaper.
We towed it to my house and pulled the front and rear-most cats. As suspected they were both bad. The back cat on the engine looked pristine inside so we left it alone. We ordered all of our parts from rockauto. New front and rear-most cats, exhaust and intake gaskets, serpentine belt, and one O2 sensor that was damaged when the insides of the front cat let go.
Installation was straight forward with no major issues. We also changed the plugs with brand new ones she had purchased but never had installed. The vehicle now runs fantastic and she is extremely happy with it.
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My escape struggles to reach 30 mph.. throttle position sensor code when scanned.Replaced the sensor but still barely any power check engine light hasnt come back on.
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 and I am experiencing a major loss of power in the vehicle. It idles smooth at about 1000rpm's but when you drive it , the vehicle won't go over 30mph and has a significant miss to it. I replaced the fuel filter, put in some Seafoam and took it for a drive and it still did not have any power and I blew out the EGR valve on the test drive. I replaced the EGR valve and the problem still remains. I hooked up a handheld computer to it and I got a P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0316 and a P0355 error codes.
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So my wife's 2005 escape has been slowly losing power over the past 6 months or so. I regularly change the oil, tried new spark plugs, new air filter and still it's lazy. I know it's not a race machine but it struggles on hills.
This winter it was having problems starting unless the accelerator was pushed to the floor. After a cleaning of the Idle control valve all was well again. It has roughly 72,000 miles on it and uses .5-1qt of oil between changes.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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A couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
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I am experiencing some strange behavior from my 2008 Ford Escape LTD. At low rpm's, usually when I am going uphill, the engine sounds like a diesel at low throttle and low rpm. It sounds fine at idle, but as soon as I apply light throttle I hear the characteristics rattle of a diesel engine. The engine returns to normal once I get above 30-40 mph or so.
My escape is at 99k miles (bought at 89k) and I'm not sure what maintenance was has bee done on it (sparkplugs, timing belt, etc?). (I do have an OBDII reader)
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
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ok this has me stumped I get this buzzing/humming/vibration sound from what seems like around Defroster passenger side but it is not all the time only at higher speeds and it it intermittent . I have removed cabin filter and cleaned filter box and checked for a leaf or something even sealed somewhat the plastic shield that covers the cabin filter. I really don't want to rip dash apart but it is so annoying
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2003 Escape 2.0L ... I occasionally hear a single "pop" sound when I turn left. It seems to be coming from the area of the right rear wheel. Any obvious candidates for this issue?
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Today after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
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I went to drive our Escape but when I pressed on the brake to switch it to drive, I heard a clicking sound coming from the center console, the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and there was a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine. I turn the car off and call up ADAC (Germany's road side assistance) and they come and find out part of a hose is missing from the engine and stick something on the end of it and the brakes worked fine. They did recommend I take it in to get it checked out but the mechanic here that speaks English doesn't have access to Ford parts. 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L .....
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
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2002 XLT 3.0L 4X4
Making a grinding sound when traveling straight or turning left. Any turn to the right (even the camber of the passing lane) and there is no grinding sound so I figured it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Replaced it yesterday.... symptoms are still there.
Tight left/right turns don't result in the popping/snapping of a bad CV joint so I don't think that's it.
I don't think it's transmission related since shifting is good and the grinding is not throttle related. Besides, turning shouldn't have an effect on the sound if it was something in the transmission, right?
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My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
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I was out driving tonight and our 03 escape started making a thumping sound like you hear when you have a flat. I turned the corner and noticed that the steering wheel is now at a 30 degree angle as I'm going straight and when I hit the brakes the steering wheel straightens out but the car doesn't change direction. It's dark so I can only see so much but the tie rods are good and tight from what I can tell same with ball joints. They just did that subframe recall a month or so ago. My concern is steering box but other than these symptoms it seems to be working fine.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
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Our escape recently started loosing its power steering, once the engine is shut off the power steering is ok. Also some times you can feel a pulsing in the steering wheel. I've been doing some googling and it looks like the dealers are replacing the steering columns to fix the problem.
My question : is this the only fix or if something like some contacts being cleaned or maybe replacing a steering sensor of some kind is the fix.
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I am trying to run a power wire through the firewall for an amp. I can't find a place to run it ....
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