Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 - Missing When Accelerate At A Dead Stop / Cylinder 4 And 5 Misfire
Dec 14, 2014
I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
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My brother has an 02 ford escape that he bought cheap because it needed a transmission. He just replaced the transmission in it as well as tie rod ends, front axles, axle bushings and seals. The front pads and rotors are new and the tires were just rotated. Now when you are going 15mph and up and are on the accelerator there is a severe shaking as you accelerate and a loud thumping noise. If you let off the accelerator it goes away. If you get it going fast enough it will shake so bad the mirrors will shake. He is a ford mechanic but said he is having a hard time pin pointing what it could be . He took me for a ride. He said he has had other mechanics look at it but they can't figure it out.
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I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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I have a 2001 Escape I bought new so many years ago. It only has 90k miles. The other day I drove it to work running fine. It rained REALLY hard that day and when I came out to go home it would barely start, missing really bad. Limped it home and into my garage where I examined it for water under the hood. Nothing. Started pulling things apart, nothing on the engine, around the coils, in the spark plug conduits, etc., dry as a bone. Let it sit for a couple of days and no change. Replaced the coils just for grins. Drained the fuel from the injector assy, looking for water. Nada. Verified spark, fuel, compression. Still, very difficult to start and when it does it's only running on cyls 1,2 & 3 because I can disconnect the coils on 4,5,6 and it makes no difference.
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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I had a misfire and my CEL came on had it read and it said cylinder 4 was misfiring and that there was a misfire in the first 1,000 RPM's. I replaced the COP and plug and now I'm getting terrible MPG. I tried to reset the PCM by removing the Neg. battery connection and it seemed to work for 4 days now my MPG has gone bad again. It seems to run smooth/good.
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Couple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
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My escape struggles to reach 30 mph.. throttle position sensor code when scanned.Replaced the sensor but still barely any power check engine light hasnt come back on.
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I have a 2009 Escape, 2.5l engine and manual 5 speed transmission, 205,000 miles. It has has an intermittent miss that has been getting gradually worse over the past 3 months or so. I've been seriously futzing with it for the past 2 months, so far no luck. Definitely worse when it's cold. Not noticeable at all in gears 1-3 (even when cold), noticeable in 4th, mostly between ~2000-2500 RPM, and pretty bad when cold in 5th in the same RPM range, still noticeable when warm. No service engine light until today (#1 misfire).
If I let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes or so, the miss is much less noticeable. Replaced the plugs, absolutely no difference. Bought one COP and cycled through all cylinders, no difference. Finally broke down and took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it new and had them do a power balance test, which isolated it to cylinder #1. Swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and took it back to Ford, still showing cylinder #1. Did a compression test, #1 and #2 both around 165lbs, #3 and #4 both around 185lbs.
I'm a electrical engineer, so I spent some quality time with an oscilloscope to compare the drive waveforms of the #1 and #2 cylinder COP and injector...both COP and injector drive waveforms look identical when comparing to #2 cyl. Tried heating the PCM, made no difference (engine was cold, PCM was hot).
So it finally DID throw a code today, cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking I can almost hear a miss at idle now. And listening to the valvetrain at idle, there is unmistakably more valve noise coming from the #1 intake area than the other cylinders, but not terrible.
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
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I've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
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I know I can fix this problem, but my question is which cylinder is #4? I don't see it marked on the engine. The counter guys at both my local parts supply stores (whose initials are A and O) can't even look it up for me. If #4 is on the front of the engine, then it's an easy fix. If it's on the backside, then the intake manifold has to come off to get to the plugs and coil packs. It's a bit more labor. I can do it, but I'd rather not have to.
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Well, I have been through the tech folder and all over the forum reading but cant seem to come up with a good first step. When i accelerate the truck shakes, by the sound it seems that its missing a cylinder. I guess it could also be the motor mounts. Besides replacing the plugs and coils, is there something else that could remedy a misfires or dead cylinder?
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My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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Question about a 4th cylinder misfire question? The engine light has been on off and on for about one year. I have not had any problems with performance until about one week ago. sometimes it shakes and the engine light flashes when it is idling. Today my husband drove it, and it would not accelerate when he put his foot on the gas, but it would pick up speed when he left his foot off the gas! Weird. This is an old car (2001 Ford Taurus station wagon) with 137,000 miles on it. We need this car.
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Ford F150 1999 5.4 XLT... I've had this truck since may 2013 from the 2nd owner who only drove it
occasionally to make sure it ran. For the last 5 weeks there have been two occasions where my service engine light appeared...once on 12/28/15 and again today. Both read cylinder 4 misfire. Upon searching this piece which I'm assuming is the boot that covers or houses the spark plug is very unsecure and causes a shaking feeling as I accelerate or idle. Being so far back I can't reach it with extensions on a ratchet and barely fit my hand back there. Having to consider taking it into a shop for further analysis and repair but I'm trying to save as much money as possible as I am in between jobs since mid January. I have a picture attached...
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