Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2009 - Intermittent (but Repeatable) Misfire
Apr 7, 2016
I have a 2009 Escape, 2.5l engine and manual 5 speed transmission, 205,000 miles. It has has an intermittent miss that has been getting gradually worse over the past 3 months or so. I've been seriously futzing with it for the past 2 months, so far no luck. Definitely worse when it's cold. Not noticeable at all in gears 1-3 (even when cold), noticeable in 4th, mostly between ~2000-2500 RPM, and pretty bad when cold in 5th in the same RPM range, still noticeable when warm. No service engine light until today (#1 misfire).
If I let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes or so, the miss is much less noticeable. Replaced the plugs, absolutely no difference. Bought one COP and cycled through all cylinders, no difference. Finally broke down and took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it new and had them do a power balance test, which isolated it to cylinder #1. Swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and took it back to Ford, still showing cylinder #1. Did a compression test, #1 and #2 both around 165lbs, #3 and #4 both around 185lbs.
I'm a electrical engineer, so I spent some quality time with an oscilloscope to compare the drive waveforms of the #1 and #2 cylinder COP and injector...both COP and injector drive waveforms look identical when comparing to #2 cyl. Tried heating the PCM, made no difference (engine was cold, PCM was hot).
So it finally DID throw a code today, cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking I can almost hear a miss at idle now. And listening to the valvetrain at idle, there is unmistakably more valve noise coming from the #1 intake area than the other cylinders, but not terrible.
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My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
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Why my BU assist on/off button is intermittant? It comes on and off when "it" wants to but won't respond when "I" push it. When it's on, it works fine but when it's off, I can't turn it on but the "off" light is still functional. Switch, relay, sub computer?
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I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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My wife has a 2009 Ford Escape limited with the six and awd. Lately with all the snow we have had we have found that the 4wd will not engage. I don't hear any clunking noise coming from a possible axle failure or the PTU grinding. Just how does the AWD work on these newer escapes. When does it know to engage? My mother in law's 01 is very trustworthy and keeps plowing the roads while our 09 sits at the road parked. With the surprise snow fall we got today my only alternative was to fire up the Duramax and pull it up our driveway to the street. Something that I can do in the driveway? I'm in hopes that I hay have overlooked something.
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Where I should start looking for the root cause of the following leak? My wife noticed that when it was raining water dripped off the handhold by the front passenger seat. The ceiling liner is dry, no evidence of water soaking into it. I am thinking windshield or door seal as there is no moon roof and the liner is dry but before I start tearing into it I want to see if there is even a chance I can fix it myself.
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I have a 2009 Escape that has developed a clunking noise in the right rear. On any bumpy roads it sounds like the shock tower lost it's top bushing but it could also be coming from somewhere lower. It also seems like the truck drifts to the right on bumpy left hand turns, kind of scary.
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The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
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I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
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Drivers side turn signal does not work, and blinks fast when turned on. The brake light on that side and hazards do not work. when I unlock the car with the remote, it lights up fine.
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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Our escape recently started loosing its power steering, once the engine is shut off the power steering is ok. Also some times you can feel a pulsing in the steering wheel. I've been doing some googling and it looks like the dealers are replacing the steering columns to fix the problem.
My question : is this the only fix or if something like some contacts being cleaned or maybe replacing a steering sensor of some kind is the fix.
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2009 1.8 Corolla . I'm chasing an intermittent P0352 code and misfire. Code points to coil pack #2 . Question is, which one is #2 ? I want to swap coils and see if the error follows the coil but I can figure out which cylinder is #2 and since all of the coil wires disappear into a loom, I'm not sure how else to tell.
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