I have a 2009 Escape that has developed a clunking noise in the right rear. On any bumpy roads it sounds like the shock tower lost it's top bushing but it could also be coming from somewhere lower. It also seems like the truck drifts to the right on bumpy left hand turns, kind of scary.
View 1 RepliesI am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
View 4 RepliesI have noticed since I got the car( 6 months ago), when ever I have passengers in the back seats i hear a clunking noise coming from the right rear suspension area.
( I don't know if this is from the suspension or not and I only notice this noise when there are passengers in the back). The clunking noise is really annoying.
I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
Noticed this rear suspension noise on their RX330's. Every time I go up a slanted driveway (driving into a driveway at an angle, not head on), there is a clunking noise coming from the right rear of the car. The sounds it makes is almost as if I the spare tire is lose hitting on the right side of the car. This only happens if I am driving into a driveway coming from the right side, the sounds does not happen if I am entering my driveway from the left side.
View 1 Replies2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
My wife has a 2009 Ford Escape limited with the six and awd. Lately with all the snow we have had we have found that the 4wd will not engage. I don't hear any clunking noise coming from a possible axle failure or the PTU grinding. Just how does the AWD work on these newer escapes. When does it know to engage? My mother in law's 01 is very trustworthy and keeps plowing the roads while our 09 sits at the road parked. With the surprise snow fall we got today my only alternative was to fire up the Duramax and pull it up our driveway to the street. Something that I can do in the driveway? I'm in hopes that I hay have overlooked something.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Escape, 2.5l engine and manual 5 speed transmission, 205,000 miles. It has has an intermittent miss that has been getting gradually worse over the past 3 months or so. I've been seriously futzing with it for the past 2 months, so far no luck. Definitely worse when it's cold. Not noticeable at all in gears 1-3 (even when cold), noticeable in 4th, mostly between ~2000-2500 RPM, and pretty bad when cold in 5th in the same RPM range, still noticeable when warm. No service engine light until today (#1 misfire).
If I let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes or so, the miss is much less noticeable. Replaced the plugs, absolutely no difference. Bought one COP and cycled through all cylinders, no difference. Finally broke down and took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it new and had them do a power balance test, which isolated it to cylinder #1. Swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and took it back to Ford, still showing cylinder #1. Did a compression test, #1 and #2 both around 165lbs, #3 and #4 both around 185lbs.
I'm a electrical engineer, so I spent some quality time with an oscilloscope to compare the drive waveforms of the #1 and #2 cylinder COP and injector...both COP and injector drive waveforms look identical when comparing to #2 cyl. Tried heating the PCM, made no difference (engine was cold, PCM was hot).
So it finally DID throw a code today, cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking I can almost hear a miss at idle now. And listening to the valvetrain at idle, there is unmistakably more valve noise coming from the #1 intake area than the other cylinders, but not terrible.
Water leak at the rear hatch. The water is coming in from the door, not the glass. I have wiped the weatherstrip clean, in case some debris was stopping it from achieving a complete seal. It is also happening on both sides.
View 9 RepliesWhere I should start looking for the root cause of the following leak? My wife noticed that when it was raining water dripped off the handhold by the front passenger seat. The ceiling liner is dry, no evidence of water soaking into it. I am thinking windshield or door seal as there is no moon roof and the liner is dry but before I start tearing into it I want to see if there is even a chance I can fix it myself.
View 3 RepliesI can't find the fuse from the manual. Is it under another name?
View 8 Replieson how to replace cracked ABS tone ring on the rear wheel of '05 Escape. I've looked everywhere on Youtube but nothing comes up. Many front wheel vids, but no rear wheel vids!
View 1 RepliesMy mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
View 7 RepliesThe rear sub frame fell out of her 06 Escape Hybrid. She found the recall for the 01-04's, was the problem fixed in 2004, or are later models subject to the recall and repair also?
View 2 Replies2005 xlt 4x4. I was cleaning the threads on the rear constant velocity joint before taking the nut off. Turning the hub was almost impossible without using a steel bar. Is it supposed to be this difficult to roll the rear axles? Yes the selector is in neutral....
View 2 RepliesThe facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesI just purchased a 2009 Hyundai Elantra a few months ago.. I have been hearing a rattling/ clunking noise around the rear glass area. I brought it to a local dealership and they thought that it was the bracket for the trunk lid rods. They replaced the bracket and the noise is still there..
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
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