Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Airbag Light Is Blinking - Code 37?
Feb 17, 2014
Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
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What airbag code 36 is and how to fix it?
Its a 2004 3.0L limited .....
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Well, I bought a used 2003 Escape for my daughter and without thoroughly researching the airbag light, now have a problem. The light flashes twice, pause, then once, so I think this is error code 21? I cannot find anything on what this code is and how to fix it. I disconnected battery for an hour and now I get 4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes, 46 error.
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I picked up a 2001 Escape 2.0 manual with 160K. She runs great but I realized that the airbag light was burned out so I hooked up my scanner and pulled 2 codes C1414 and B1869. I changed the bulb and cleared the B1869 but the C1414 remains. the airbag light also flashes and gives me a 29 code. I am not finding much on the subject. The airbags appear to be there and it does not appear that it has been wrecked. I am guessing that it is the airbag control module. Where the module is located on this vehicle.
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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I have error 19 on airbag warning light. I plan to replace RCM and have it programmed to vehicle. Where is RCM located on 2003 Escape, V6?
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I was driving today and felt my ABS kick in with a pulsing pedal, although I was on dry ground. From that point on, my ABS light stayed on and my 4X4 light will blink every minute or so 8 consecutive times. The ABS light has gone off a couple times but only for a second and the ABS light comes back on again. I did get the truck on a scanner and got the codes C1234, U2023, U0415. Tried to clear the codes, but the ABS light prevails.
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Looking to see how to repair my blinking light. Code reads a 27, most what I've read says it's a PAD light, which this truck does not have. It has been in an accident, both airbags deployed. Since then both seat belts & bags have been replaced, nothing else.
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I have a Mazda Tribute 2006 2.3. The O/D light would come on, drove it to a friends to scan the check engine light code, and the car almost made it there and then wouldn't remove in reverse, forward, or anything. Turn it off then start it up still wouldn't, then turned it off let it cool and it worked again for a little while.
The code was P0741, just the one code. Took it to a shop to have further tests, they seemed to think it was the clutch was worn and when the fluid heated it lost friction.
Pulled the transmission and thought why not do a Transmission rebuild? I have never done one but there was an awesome video on youtube of the guy doing it so I figured it couldn't be too hard and was just going to try my first rebuild.
According to the guy in the video you always need all new bushing, and we will get a rebuild kit with new clutch packs and the other stuff that comes with those, and sounds like it's a good idea to replace the torque converter.
The car is only at 85K and it looks like the transmission was rebuilt once before he got it at 80K. Maybe a bad rebuild?
Here are some pictures .....
The Input Sprag bearing was shredded and the bushing looks terrible. Can I just replace the bearing and the bushing? Is there any other damage I should be looking for because of this?
The forward planet you can so some eaten metal on the edge and 2 gears spin super smooth and the other 2 you have to push pretty hard to get them to turn. So new forward planet?
The shell's corners look a little rounded I wasn't sure how much was to much, can you tell from the picture if it looks like too much?
Input Sprag
Forward Planet
Sun Gear Shell
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P0403 code that came up on our 2004 Escape 3.0.
Weekend before last I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it and the pickup screen out, and replaced the gasket (switching to full synthetic has been a double edged sword with the leaks that are popping up...); put in new plugs new upper intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body and manifold out. All vacuum hoses inline with the EGR solenoid have also been replaced since the light went on.
While driving the following day the check engine light (CEL) came on and when checked at pep boys read P0403 (no other codes for low EGR flow, etc.). Now, the EGR solenoid is the newest non-regular maintenance item under that hood because the same code came up a couple of years ago (a new solenoid from pep boys fixed that lickety split) so I wasn't overly concerned that it had popped up again, but a bit frustrated that the solenoid only lasted as long as it did. Also, since the light popped up, I have replaced a couple of vacuum lines with some generic 4mm ID (5/32", I think) rubber vacuum hose, but that just headed off what looked like some potential future problem leaks.
Now, here I am a couple of weeks later having tried 4.5 new solenoids (Amazon sent me one with the wrong wiring harness clip so I couldn't verify that it was connected when it didn't work), and thrown some other "just in case" parts at it (new EGR valve and flow sensor, but these may be returned, but may just end up keeping them on, we'll see how things work out). I'm getting a solid reading from the hot lead on the solenoid harness at idle and during static revving, but I can't seem to get anything on the ground pin.
I've cleaned the connections and the larger pin block going into the top of the firewall to no avail. Should this read as a fluttering ground signal all the time, is it only grounded exactly when it wants the solenoid to open the EGR? What can I do to confirm that it should read grounded so I can know one way or the other whether there is a break in the line? I can't find my multimeter (or just dreamed that I picked one up last year). I'm also curious as to whether or not there's a good way to bench test the solenoid. I don't really get a reaction when I hook it up to 12v directly like I do with a vacuum solenoid from my Saab where there's an audible "click."
Is the wire harness for the solenoid a known weak spot? I've found two potential donors at the local junk yard that I can cut the wires out of to play around with/solder a new one in if that's something that the consensus deems may solve my cause. I also had an ABS light come on not too long after the CEL, but when I reset the CEL the ABS light went away and never came back (it only came on when I hit a big expansion joint on a highway bridge, no braking issues since it's been reset and ABS seems to be fully functional, per gravel road test). I still can't seem to read any ground signal at the solenoid harness at idle or with throttle input. I'd like to fix it, but don't want to start digging into the wires blind.
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2002 Ford Escape... My OD light started to come on every once in a while, and would go off once I turned the car off... This being said, as far as I could tell, the tranny was running smooth. Then an engine light popped on and this code and explanation come up... P1744 "Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in OFF position".
I recently came back from a bit of a trip... and after shutting the car off, it didn't want to restart. Since this time, the car has begun to start, but the engine light remains on with the P1744 coming up...
Research seems to indicate that the problem is with the Torque Converter Solenoid. You Tube videos show that there are two solenoids just under the transmission pan...
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Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
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2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
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I'm pulling a P0403 EGR circuit fault on a 2004 v6 Escape.
Last night I changed out the EGR solenoid. Cleared the code and drove around for a while, got on the highway and cruised for a few miles and everything seemed fine. Turn the car off and back on and the code showed up again.
My next step will be to check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I don't do a lot of auto repair.
With my multimeter I will check for 12 volts. But from what I understand I can not check ground as the PCM sends ground to the solenoid to activate it. How should I check the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid?
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Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
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Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
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Couple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
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So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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