Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - Airbag Light C1414 Flash Code 29
Apr 5, 2014
I picked up a 2001 Escape 2.0 manual with 160K. She runs great but I realized that the airbag light was burned out so I hooked up my scanner and pulled 2 codes C1414 and B1869. I changed the bulb and cleared the B1869 but the C1414 remains. the airbag light also flashes and gives me a 29 code. I am not finding much on the subject. The airbags appear to be there and it does not appear that it has been wrecked. I am guessing that it is the airbag control module. Where the module is located on this vehicle.
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Well, I bought a used 2003 Escape for my daughter and without thoroughly researching the airbag light, now have a problem. The light flashes twice, pause, then once, so I think this is error code 21? I cannot find anything on what this code is and how to fix it. I disconnected battery for an hour and now I get 4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes, 46 error.
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Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
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What airbag code 36 is and how to fix it?
Its a 2004 3.0L limited .....
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I have error 19 on airbag warning light. I plan to replace RCM and have it programmed to vehicle. Where is RCM located on 2003 Escape, V6?
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It has been running very smooth since I changed the lower intake gaskets, and I just went on a 1500 mile round trip roadtrip. It ran perfect the whole way, getting 22mpg to boot. In the last 50 miles, the CEL came one. The code read P0420 which is the cat converter? I dont want to fork up for a new one, are there any tricks to get this fixed or cleared?
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I have a Mazda Tribute 2006 2.3. The O/D light would come on, drove it to a friends to scan the check engine light code, and the car almost made it there and then wouldn't remove in reverse, forward, or anything. Turn it off then start it up still wouldn't, then turned it off let it cool and it worked again for a little while.
The code was P0741, just the one code. Took it to a shop to have further tests, they seemed to think it was the clutch was worn and when the fluid heated it lost friction.
Pulled the transmission and thought why not do a Transmission rebuild? I have never done one but there was an awesome video on youtube of the guy doing it so I figured it couldn't be too hard and was just going to try my first rebuild.
According to the guy in the video you always need all new bushing, and we will get a rebuild kit with new clutch packs and the other stuff that comes with those, and sounds like it's a good idea to replace the torque converter.
The car is only at 85K and it looks like the transmission was rebuilt once before he got it at 80K. Maybe a bad rebuild?
Here are some pictures .....
The Input Sprag bearing was shredded and the bushing looks terrible. Can I just replace the bearing and the bushing? Is there any other damage I should be looking for because of this?
The forward planet you can so some eaten metal on the edge and 2 gears spin super smooth and the other 2 you have to push pretty hard to get them to turn. So new forward planet?
The shell's corners look a little rounded I wasn't sure how much was to much, can you tell from the picture if it looks like too much?
Input Sprag
Forward Planet
Sun Gear Shell
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2002 Ford Escape... My OD light started to come on every once in a while, and would go off once I turned the car off... This being said, as far as I could tell, the tranny was running smooth. Then an engine light popped on and this code and explanation come up... P1744 "Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in OFF position".
I recently came back from a bit of a trip... and after shutting the car off, it didn't want to restart. Since this time, the car has begun to start, but the engine light remains on with the P1744 coming up...
Research seems to indicate that the problem is with the Torque Converter Solenoid. You Tube videos show that there are two solenoids just under the transmission pan...
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Brought home tonight a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L 24 Valve V6. Bought it from a mechanic who's customer didn't want to put any more money into it. Has 185000 miles on it and it throwing the P0303 & P0171 codes. Cylinder 3 miss and Lean condition bank1.
Mechanic thinks it is a valve seat in the cylinder head next to the fire wall. Before I start replacing the cylinder heads with new remanufactured heads I plan on doing a compression test and leak down test.?
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I have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
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My front interior light/map lights combination does not come on when the doors open. The rear seat and cargo area lights work when the doors open. Do the front interior lights are not designed to work in conjunction with the other lights when the door is opened?
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About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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I'm getting a p0452 fault on my 2002 Escape 3.0 V6 2WD. From what I've read, that seems to indicate low FTP signal below .22v. As I understand it, the FTP sensor has 5 v applied, and the output to the ECU goes down as tank static pressure increases. Conversely, I think the voltage back to the ECU goes up as tank static pressure decreases (for the vacuum leak test measurement).
What the approximate voltage is at atmosphere (engine not running, vent valve open, etc)?
I'm guessing the "less than .22v minimum" signal back to the ECU might look more like either the signal wire shorted to the frame somewhere or the signal wire open (maybe corrosion in the connector)....
Also, where the FTP sensor is located on the Escape and how to access it?
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P0403 code that came up on our 2004 Escape 3.0.
Weekend before last I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it and the pickup screen out, and replaced the gasket (switching to full synthetic has been a double edged sword with the leaks that are popping up...); put in new plugs new upper intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body and manifold out. All vacuum hoses inline with the EGR solenoid have also been replaced since the light went on.
While driving the following day the check engine light (CEL) came on and when checked at pep boys read P0403 (no other codes for low EGR flow, etc.). Now, the EGR solenoid is the newest non-regular maintenance item under that hood because the same code came up a couple of years ago (a new solenoid from pep boys fixed that lickety split) so I wasn't overly concerned that it had popped up again, but a bit frustrated that the solenoid only lasted as long as it did. Also, since the light popped up, I have replaced a couple of vacuum lines with some generic 4mm ID (5/32", I think) rubber vacuum hose, but that just headed off what looked like some potential future problem leaks.
Now, here I am a couple of weeks later having tried 4.5 new solenoids (Amazon sent me one with the wrong wiring harness clip so I couldn't verify that it was connected when it didn't work), and thrown some other "just in case" parts at it (new EGR valve and flow sensor, but these may be returned, but may just end up keeping them on, we'll see how things work out). I'm getting a solid reading from the hot lead on the solenoid harness at idle and during static revving, but I can't seem to get anything on the ground pin.
I've cleaned the connections and the larger pin block going into the top of the firewall to no avail. Should this read as a fluttering ground signal all the time, is it only grounded exactly when it wants the solenoid to open the EGR? What can I do to confirm that it should read grounded so I can know one way or the other whether there is a break in the line? I can't find my multimeter (or just dreamed that I picked one up last year). I'm also curious as to whether or not there's a good way to bench test the solenoid. I don't really get a reaction when I hook it up to 12v directly like I do with a vacuum solenoid from my Saab where there's an audible "click."
Is the wire harness for the solenoid a known weak spot? I've found two potential donors at the local junk yard that I can cut the wires out of to play around with/solder a new one in if that's something that the consensus deems may solve my cause. I also had an ABS light come on not too long after the CEL, but when I reset the CEL the ABS light went away and never came back (it only came on when I hit a big expansion joint on a highway bridge, no braking issues since it's been reset and ABS seems to be fully functional, per gravel road test). I still can't seem to read any ground signal at the solenoid harness at idle or with throttle input. I'd like to fix it, but don't want to start digging into the wires blind.
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After about 6 months I finally got the alternator replaced in the Tribute. I totally forgot about the CEL that was on for EGR Circuit. I've found a couple of pages ( OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction ) that explain how to diagnose the issue but I was wondering if any other route for something that may be more common than another thing.
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Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
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I have been getting a CEL P0420 for low cat efficiency bank 1 on my 2002 Ford Escape V6. The truck runs fine otherwise. I have ran two loads of Cataclean and the light keeps coming back a few days after CEL reset so I am pretty sure one of cats is done. I am going to replace with an aftermarket cat. My question is, with this code, do I need to replace the front exhaust manifold cat or the rear manifold cat?
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2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
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