Prius (Gen 2) :: Vent Settings To Just Blow Air Through Cabin?
Jul 12, 2011
I was wondering if there is a vent setting to just blow air through the cabin or is it required to set a temperature to have the fan blow air?
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Jul 12, 2011
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Prius (2010-12) :: 2011 - Rear Seat Vent Should Blow Air Out Or Suck Air Into It?
I sat in the back of my recently purchased 2011 Prius Three, not III, for the first time yesterday. I learned from this forum that the vent in the rear seat is to keep the hybrid battery cooled. However, while sitting the back during a ride, I noticed it was blowing air out instead of sucking air. I would think the vent should be sucking air from the cabin to keep it cool, but that does not seem to be the case here. After a 30 minute drive, I even felt the air coming out of it was warm and the A/C began to feel that it was not enough for my area in the back of the car.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 4cyl. My car will automatically change from recirculating air setting to open air on its own. No matter vent setting I have it on. I took it into the dealership. The said they didn't notice anything. So I was checking to see if this is normal, bad relay or switch or whatever.
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I have been noticing a rattle noise coming from the a/c vent with the setting on the lowest. What this may be?
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At 60k mi. A/c works fine then next day won't blow cold on usual settings. Then works fine again for months and probably over a year. Now at 72K mi same problem. Is this a switch or something since I am not hearing the a/c clutch engage? Hopefully tomorrow it works as it starts up again after a day or two. What could be going bad or is loose?
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The fan in my 2011 Matrix is only blowing on the highest setting (4), heat and air is ok. Is this a fuse issue?
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I find that my 2010 V6 is always cold in the winter. I always need to turn the temperature control to the highest, but there is still not enough heat. This morning, it was -11c outside. After I drove 10 KM (about 20 minutes) , inside the car is still very cold. My feet were frozen. The air from the vent is only warm, not hot. I also find that this car takes longer to warm up. The temperature gauge won't start to move until I drive about 2.5KM.
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I own a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Just recently while I was driving (in 15 degree icy conditions!) my heater, which was blowing on setting 2, stopping blowing air. I tried messing around with it, and found out that it won't blow any air on settings 1,2,or 3. It does, however, blow air on setting 4, but that is accompanied by a slight strange noise/vibrating of the dash. The coolant level looks fine and I haven't spotted any leaks anywhere that might indicate that it's the heating core. I thought it might be the resistor.
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When first starting a 2012 Sante Fe GLS with standard AC each morning, the vents blow warm for up to 3-5 minutes and therafter are fine. Additional starts for the remainder of the day seem fine. We live in a hot climate, but our 2011 Sonata, which is parked in the same garage, does not have this problem. No unusual soundsor lack of air circulation, and after 5 minutes it spontaneously starts to blow cool air. Problem began 2 months after purchase.
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94 ford f150. I have replaced a leaking heater core and replaced all heater hoses, radiator hoses and water pump. I do not have any coolant leaks at this time. The problem is: when operating the vent or heat, there is a residual coolant smell. Is it possible that the vents were coated with coolant when it was leaking, thus still producing the smell? If so, is there anyway to clean out the vent system?
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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Prius 2013. After I power off the car with the Power button there appears to be a little bit of time during which I can push the window buttons and get the windows to close. Maybe five or ten seconds. If after that short period I notice that the windows are open I have to push the Power button twice to get to a state where to use the window buttons to close the windows. Is there any way to extend that time to a longer setting?
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I am driving in Florida as the humidity outside gets very very high along with high temperatures and with the air conditioning on at night inside I developed a dew on the outside but the wipers can wipe away. with the high temperatures outside I obviously want the car cooler inside. it seems to be a constant fight but the real problem is the side windows are also developing a dew on the driver side window and passenger-side somewhat.
I can roll the windows up and down put the time I get them rolled back up and go a very very short amount of time they are dew over again from the outside , the windshield it is almost to the point where you have to leave the wipers on I have used the washers and that does not really work much at all either .
Prius C :: Blower Chirping Noise On Lowest Two Settings
Only on the lowest two settings fan makes a chirping noise, it is a lot worse with the colder weather. It has been going on for over a year now and when I get the oil change I bring it up and they refuse that they hear anything... Finally made appointment for it and they still claim they hear nothing. It sounds exactly like the link here on YouTube... there is also videos on YouTube with tacoma's with the same problem but there is a Toyota Service Bulletin for it.
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I am trying to change the automatic door lock setting to unlock the doors when I open the drivers side door not when I shift into park. The manual is vague and I am not having any success at all.
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View 2 Replies