My 2007 Prius has stopped producing cabin heat; the blower fan is working. I have no dash warning indicators. I am in an area where the are no Toyota dealers and need to drive 160 miles to home and shop. It has just turned cold. Why and if I am ok to drive to the shop?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius. The blower for the AC and heat stopped working. I have checked the two AC fuses and they are okay. I used the touch screen diagnostics mode on the touch screen and it appears that the touch screen and the screen switches are working. Any other things to check?
How hard is it to access the blower motor to replace or to check if it is getting power? How much of the dash has to be disassembled?
I own 01 Prius with 223K miles, No heat or AC working. Only get outside air. Here is the code I am getting: 3, 3, 4, 1, 4, 2, 4, 3.
View 19 RepliesA few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
My 06 prius takes a very long time to provide heat to the cabin. In temps below 20 F it can take 20 minutes. Today in 16 F weather the red triangle came on, followed by a problem banner, followed by a thermostat symbol. The triangle and symbol turned on a off a couple of times over a 5 minute span. I had been driving the car from a cold start for about 15 minutes when this happened. The car did start to produce some, but not a lot, of heat at about 20 minutes into the drive. I was also forced to use the defroster intermittently for the first 15 minutes (blew only cold air). After parking the car for 20 minutes I drove 20 minutes home with no triangle or thermostat symbol. Most of the way home I had sufficient heat.
I do have the front blocked with pipe insulation. I have owned my 06 prius for over a year and it has 257,000 on it.
Could the thermostat and triangle be caused by a low engine temp? If so would a stuck thermostat be a potential culprit?
Can I assume that if my car is blowing cold air when I am asking for heat that the engine is not over heating?
I have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
View 7 RepliesI have been having an intermittent blower in the cabin and decided to bring the car into the dealer to have the car looked at. I just bought the car a few weeks ago and wanted to make sure it wasn't something serious. The dealer told me that there was a short in the blower motor and that it would cost $500.00 to fix. After doing some research this appears to be a VERY common problem on the prius as well as issues with the car door lock system.
View 8 RepliesI have had this car for about a year now, no problems other than the check engine light has come on and after a code check found out its the Cat converter *yay*.
Most recently the A/C blower is working rather intermittent, can start off blowing just fine and then the blower seems to decrease while the screen still shows it on high. AC temp is just fine, just the blower is having issues. Sometimes it will turn off all together and not come back on at all for several hours. I am thinking it might be the fan motor, but I don't know enough about these cars to say for certain.
Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
I'm headed north in a couple days to the frigid regions of the country and I little worried cause my blower fan is now completely non-functioning (no heat, no defrost ). It came on a couple times since I bought it recently, usually after hitting a bump and stayed on for a while, but now it hasn't come on at all in a while. I checked all the fuses, they all looked good.
View 16 RepliesCan I use the remote climate control switch to heat the cabin during cold mornings as well as cool the cabin during hot summer days?
View 8 RepliesMy a/c recently is not blowing the same amount of air thru the cabin. Thought it was the cabin air filter because I was recently in some really dusty conditions. The compressor under the hood (and both lines) run very cold, but cabin blows cold air just low volume compared to before my dusty trip. Am told the 2004 does not have a cabin air filter. If that is true how and where is the air filtered or input? Think something is restricting my air flow causing me problems.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2012 C 3, with 27K miles. This morning on the way to the store i turned on the heater and the fan turned on and after like 2 mins the blower stop working. All the lights are on, but nothing comes out of the vents under any circumstances. I tried taking of the ECO mode, I tried turning the car on and off. still nothing.
If I bring it to the dealer will they fix it under warranty? Could it be a bad fuse? where is the fuse box? What could it be, its freezing outside and I need heat for the kids in the car.
Several weeks ago, the blower motor in my 2010 stopped blowing. It came on within a day or so, but failed again, so I replaced it with a new part from Rock Auto: TYC 700249.
The new fan just stopped again. I plugged the harness in and out several times and it did briefly come on a few times, but clearly something else is going on.
I don't know if it's relevant, but after I took out the OEM fan, I experimented by removing the plate from its back that has wires and capacitors (actually, I don't know what I'm talking about) and connected the main prongs directly to a 12V battery. It came on right away. I installed the new fan anyway, figuring it was the plate/wires assembly portion that was bad. The "resistor?"
The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
View 7 RepliesThe past few days ive had the switch in the on position but when I exit the car and come back hours later after it's been in full sun the fan isn't on and the cabin isn't lower in temp. Occasionally when I shut off the car I hear a short beep and I assume that means the system is active and later I find it is, but that is with the moon roof open. Is it normal for the fan to not turn on unless the roof is open?
View 3 RepliesThe heater/ac blower stopped working on my 2004 Lexus GX470. All the lights and display work but the fan doesn't work on any speed. I replaced the relay in the fuse box under the hood but no luck. I removed the blower and it works when I hot wire it to the battery. I checked the voltage coming into the blower and its at 13.5V, same as coming off the battery but it doesn't turn the fan.
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
View 2 RepliesI took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.