Recently disconnected the battery, now rear window switch flashes whenever the door is opened and the hvac switches will not work for around 30 seconds, how to recalibrate the door/hvac system...
View 1 Replies2005 Excursion..... When the switch is pushed, the relay clicks. The light on the switch does NOT come on.
I have switched relays for testing. The fuse is good. The truck has heated mirrors. Are they related to the rear glass issue?
Bought this in June. No winter use yet. Is a freezing temperature required for operation?
The cruise control quit working on my 2007 Town and Country. The indicator light in the instrument cluster flashes but won't stay on. If I have the ignition switch on but the engine off the light will come on and stay on.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Grand caravan with a 3.3L. Over the summer I was having issues with the transmission.Got the codes reaf, P0700 and P1726( I think). After this had an input speed sensor replaced and the TCM. The van worked for about 3 months, but now is acting up again. This time I got codes P0700 and P0704. Was told it was a clutch switch malfunction. Can't seem to find any details about this code.
View 1 RepliesMy 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
View 5 RepliesHaving issue with power windows in 2010 Prius. I just noticed today that I can't roll down the rear passenger side window from the driver door switch but all the other windows work, and the rear passenger window works as I can roll down from the door itself.
View 2 RepliesThe problem I am having with my 2009 Grand Caravan SE is the drivers door controls stopped working. I cant use the power windows locks or door locks and the background light is off also, the front passenger side and middle row locks etc work. On the driver door the only things that work are the 2 back vent windows.
View 6 RepliesMy door ajar warning light stays on and at the same time the warning bell/noise keeps going off. Is there something that I can disconnect to make the noise stop?
View 4 RepliesWhen we turn the wheel of the van sharply in either direction, it produces a distinct clunk from the rear. This isn't the AWD engagement symptom I've read about - it seems to be strictly connected to a sudden change of direction, and the noise is definitely coming from the rear. I can also get the noise to happen when going over a large bump, such as a speed bump, but a moderately sharp (so nothing you wouldn't do in normal driving) flick of the wheel produces the noise very easily and consistently.
I doubt it's the axles, because the way we drive this van, the AWD is actually seldom engaged, so the axles have seen very little wear. Could it be the rubber bushings that support the leaf springs? It's such a simple rear suspension design that there isn't a whole lot to go wrong/replace, but I don't want to start throwing parts at it without at least a stab at a diagnosis.
The van has 123,000 miles, and has been doing this for a long time, and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Otherwise, the van has been amazingly trouble-free.
I've got some trouble with my 2010 T&C Touring and the A/C system. I believe it is specific to the rear, but not 100% sure yet.
Here's the symptom, while driving home a few nights ago, I noticed a hissing sound from somewhere under the dash. Research led me to believe that the r-134a was low, so I bought a few cans and charged it up. I drove around yesterday with the fresh refill, and all was well. This morning, I noticed that I hadn't been running the rear A/C, and thus, not doing a full test.
So, I turned on the rear A/C and within just a few minutes, started hearing the hissing sound again. Flash back to a couple of weekends, I replaced brakes/rotors and while inspecting after taking a test drive noticed some water pooling up under the rear passenger side tire. I checked it out, but at the time, it didn't seem significant until today when I started to put this all together.
SO, my question is, what would be leaking right above the tire? Is this something that is super common and I could somehow convince my local dealer to repair out of "good will" like was happening with the '06 model year with a similar issue? I've had to do brakes, rotors and as a result of not knowing that Chrysler calipers can't be pressed in, but instead must be wound in, replaced calipers, and also an EGR valve all at the same time. So, needless to say, I'm not excited about doing further repair.
I've a got a 2006 sebring convertible. I replaced the rear window defrost tab 2 years ago & it has come un-stuck again. The dealership has tried adhering it 3X and after the 24 hour cure time, as soon as I turn on the defroster, the tab comes off the window. Dealership is telling me to replace the ENTIRE rear window!
View 5 RepliesSo the rear defroster tab has popped off the window. I purchased this kit from O'Reillys but when I clipped the wire back onto the tab it popped the tab right back off. I even waited 48 hours instead of 24 so it had plenty of time to set, even with the cooler temperatures. Okay, so I forgot about it until I took the stroller out and noticed the trim laying in the back of the X... but still, plenty of time to bond well. I'm thinking of calling a glass shop & seeing what they'll charge to reattach.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
View 14 Repliesi have prius 2004 yesterday the rear defroster stopped and not working while the key on steering wheel and the yallow light indicator works very well and mirror defroster also working well, this case it become yesterday but before that it was working as usual.
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to find the fuse for my rear window defroster. The manual doesn't show it. The fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side doesn't have it marked and the local dealer can't tell me where it is either. They want me to bring it in, of course! Exactly where this fuse is located?
View 3 RepliesI own a 2008 Elantra
So for a while now I have noticed that I often have a great deal of static on my radio during my ride to work. I was stumped because it only happened occasionally and affected every channel, AM and FM. Today I discovered what was changing to cause the static. Whenever I have the rear window defroster on, there is static on the radio. Turning the rear defroster off, stops the static immediately. I have checked all other electric devices in conjunction with the radio, and it is only caused by the defroster. My understanding is that the antenna is built into the rear window, so the cause and effect seems obvious.
My radio has great FM reception except when I turn on the rear wndow defroster. When I do, the radio sounds faint and crackly as though I were listening to a very distant station. As soon as I turn off the defroster, the reception comes back to normal. This is on a '09 Sonata limited - this did not happen on my previous '08 Azera and '06 Sonata LX...
View 5 Replies2003 ford excursion xlt, 4x4, v10, auto.
My rear window defroster does not work. I have no power to the switch. on the reply I do have power to terminal 30 on the relay. If I use a jumper wire between 30 and 87 it works. I think the problem is terminal 86 should have power when thever key is in run position but it doesn't. I have the factory wiring diagram book but am at a loss. It seems to me it is more of a mechanical connection inside the junction box but there are other components on the circuit that work.
It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
A couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
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