Caravan/Voyager :: 2003 - Electrical Components Controlled By Ignition Key / Switch Work Intermittently
Jul 17, 2011
All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
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2005 GC. My headlights work some of the time. All all other lights work fine. Turning the switch on and off repeatedly sometimes get the lights on but sometime I just have to wait/drive abit before they come on. They also do not shut off automatically after the alotted time.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I have a 2005 Grand caravan with a 3.3L. Over the summer I was having issues with the transmission.Got the codes reaf, P0700 and P1726( I think). After this had an input speed sensor replaced and the TCM. The van worked for about 3 months, but now is acting up again. This time I got codes P0700 and P0704. Was told it was a clutch switch malfunction. Can't seem to find any details about this code.
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Recently disconnected the battery, now rear window switch flashes whenever the door is opened and the hvac switches will not work for around 30 seconds, how to recalibrate the door/hvac system...
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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2002 Chrysler Voyager, 3.3L V6, 133K miles.
I'm experiencing an intermittent total electrical shutdown. Driving at any speed, electrical system cuts out - lights, radio, gauges, motor - everything shuts down for a period of 3-4 seconds, then power is restored. Transmission that has disengaged during shutdown takes a few more seconds to re-engage. This can happen 15-20 times during a 25 mile trip or not at all. Last evening a 25 mile trip to destination w/ no problems. On the return, 6-7 shutdowns in the first few miles, then nary an issue. This morning, in pulling around a block to unload some cargo, 2 cutouts. I do not have to touch the key for the restart.
I have cleaned battery terminals & connectors w/ baking soda, scrubbed them w/ battery brush, coated w/ DiElectric grease, run an auxiliary ground, had the battery load tested (good for 700 cold cranking amps), and taken to the local mechanic who spent a few hours and 3 cruises w/ an analyzer hooked up. Not to worry, no problems manifest when van was w/ mechanic. BTW, no fault codes thrown, no "Check Engine" light appearing. Ignition switch tested as OK.
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My 2007 Dodge Caravan has only one working headlight, the passenger side does not work on high or low beams.
At this time I'm wondering if the problem is in the headlight plug itself, because there are no other complications other than the passenger side not working.
The light did work at first on high beams but now not at all. replacing bulbs makes no difference. There is some brown discoloring on the white strip on the plug face, nothing like this on the driver side.
Also hoping that the problem is not the relay or front control module.
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Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
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I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
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When we turn the wheel of the van sharply in either direction, it produces a distinct clunk from the rear. This isn't the AWD engagement symptom I've read about - it seems to be strictly connected to a sudden change of direction, and the noise is definitely coming from the rear. I can also get the noise to happen when going over a large bump, such as a speed bump, but a moderately sharp (so nothing you wouldn't do in normal driving) flick of the wheel produces the noise very easily and consistently.
I doubt it's the axles, because the way we drive this van, the AWD is actually seldom engaged, so the axles have seen very little wear. Could it be the rubber bushings that support the leaf springs? It's such a simple rear suspension design that there isn't a whole lot to go wrong/replace, but I don't want to start throwing parts at it without at least a stab at a diagnosis.
The van has 123,000 miles, and has been doing this for a long time, and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Otherwise, the van has been amazingly trouble-free.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and my problem started with no reverse after starting car. If I pushed it back and drove forward 10 or 15 feet then reverse would work fine and shift properly. As long as I could drive forward first then reverse would work. This was like this for a few days then the vehicle wouldn't move at all. There wasn't any error codes. The fluid is full and clean.
When the van was about a year old I took it to the dealer with harsh shifting and they said there was a broken wire to the trans, I am thinking this is when they came out with the 3 wire slice people where talking about.
I wasn't needing the van so it has been sitting now for almost a year. Now I want to get it working again...
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, 75,000 miles. The van suddenly will not attempt to start. The strange thing is that when the key is turned to RUN I cannot hear the fuel pump. The normal 2 or so second on growl at the initial key turn is not there. When turned to start the clock on the radio goes out and no crank. I have found that the start relay is not passing on the signal to the starter. If I jump across the two pins going to the starter, the starter cranks fine. The van will still not start because I believe it has no fuel,due to the fuel pump not running. I thought first that it must be the neutral safety switch but does that have any control of the fuel pump also? I have found that the neutral safety switch requires that I remove the valve body for access.
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Well I am working on the van today. 2000 Windstar. Recently (6 months?) the chime that is supposed to come on if you have the key in the ignition but off and open the door does not work. This has contributed to the keys being locked in the van 1 time so far.
So today I am working on something else and low an behold I notice something. If I put the steering wheel in the lowest tilt position then the chime comes on if the key is in the ignition or even if it is not in the ignition. If I tilt the wheel back up to normal driving position then it is back to no chime at all.
So I guess there is something wrong with whatever switch detects the key in the ignition. Problem is I don't know where this switch is at.
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I've fixed one source of water that was leaking into the passenger side footwell via the insulation surrounding the A/D drain line, but I still have a leak on the drivers side after a rain, and it's strange. Unlike the leak on the passenger side, this one is not coming along the firewall - the firewall is bone dry. The water seems to be coming vertically straight down, landing on the floor mat, but I can't tell where it's coming from. Not only is the firewall dry, but so is the carpet on all sides of the puddle that collects in the rubber floor mat.
Also, I haven't been able to create the leak by spraying water on the van - I washed it today, for example, and not a drop came in. But we had a light rain last night, and there was a puddle on the floor mat (good thing it's rubber) when I opened the door this morning. I've stuck my head up under the dash immediately after I had found water on the floor mat, but can't for the life of me see any sign of wetness above the location of the water on the floor mat.
And yes, I've cleaned out the drain lines under the cowl in front of the windshield. Where this mystery leak may be coming from?
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Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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97 Explorer XLT ... All lights , radio, etc. work, so not battery. When turning key to start, there is silence. No click, no stutter, nuttin. Starter?? Where should I start?
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