Chrysler - Voyager :: 2002 - Electrical Shutdown Intermittently?
Oct 2, 2012
2002 Chrysler Voyager, 3.3L V6, 133K miles.
I'm experiencing an intermittent total electrical shutdown. Driving at any speed, electrical system cuts out - lights, radio, gauges, motor - everything shuts down for a period of 3-4 seconds, then power is restored. Transmission that has disengaged during shutdown takes a few more seconds to re-engage. This can happen 15-20 times during a 25 mile trip or not at all. Last evening a 25 mile trip to destination w/ no problems. On the return, 6-7 shutdowns in the first few miles, then nary an issue. This morning, in pulling around a block to unload some cargo, 2 cutouts. I do not have to touch the key for the restart.
I have cleaned battery terminals & connectors w/ baking soda, scrubbed them w/ battery brush, coated w/ DiElectric grease, run an auxiliary ground, had the battery load tested (good for 700 cold cranking amps), and taken to the local mechanic who spent a few hours and 3 cruises w/ an analyzer hooked up. Not to worry, no problems manifest when van was w/ mechanic. BTW, no fault codes thrown, no "Check Engine" light appearing. Ignition switch tested as OK.
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All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Voyager with 135000 miles and in good shape. My mechanic has replaced the serpentine belt 3 times in the last 24 months each time using a different manufacturer. The last time was <6 months ago. The tensioner pulley was replaced 10 months when the screeching noise returned as it has each time the belt is replaced. The other pulleys all seem to work fine. I use a small fingernail sized dab of NAPA's "Sil-Glyde" lubricant on the underside of the belt every 150-200 miles. I will use it more frequently if it has rained recently.
-AC works fine and is not associated with this screeching
-PS pump works fine and shows no leaks. Rack has been replaced. PS fluid system flushed and filled with new fluid.
-Alternator runs fine
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My caravan is doing this thing lately (cold weather) where i start it and when i hear it start i let off the key and it dies instantly (like It fires for an 1/8 second). Ive had it go as bad as 7 tries before it stays running. after it does get running it runs perfectly. The most recent time it threw a code of "p1607 internal shutdown timer rationality condition"
other noted issue is that the power steering pump squalls really bad when its under about 45 degrees until it warms up, fluid level is fine. I think the fluid is gelling up causing alot of friction. I dont know if this added friction upon cold start could lead to the engine dying right away.
I have also heard that there are some idle sensors of some sort that can cause this dying on startup condition.
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I have a 2009 Yukon that experiences a complete electrical shutdown (like if I turned car off and removed key). The shutdown happens sporadically with no particular cause. It has rained everyday here in Fort Lauderdale for 45 days straight. About two weeks ago my Yukon's battery went dead after running the radio for two hours without the car on. I received a jump and the everything seemed fine, but the passenger's A/C came out hot for some reason. Once the car was turned off and on again all went back to normal.
This week the Yukon began shutting down. If I am driving it seems to just flicker of and on, but keeps on moving. If I turn the car off I have to wait 5-15 minuets then it just starts normally.
I had an after market sub-woofer w/amplifier installed (Best Buy) about two months ago. Don't know if this matters but it has been the only electrical modification done on the car.
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i have a 2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager. So as a preface, I've had some intermittent electrical issues, the wipers all of a sudden started acting odd ,not turning off, the intermittent setting working oddly, or won't return to the park position. So as i pull off the highway to day my van just stops running. I was fortunately close to my destination, and was able to get towed by a friend the rest of the way.
Now here is the odd part, any time there was a load on the tow strap (attached to the motor mount) it tried to start itself, yes i was in neutral, the speedo would act up (jumping from no reading to 120mph), and the wipers started to go!?!?! I've gt a charger on it wondering if I have some issues due to funky battery voltage, other than that I'm not sure what way to go with this.
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Grumbling noise when put in gear and held with brake. When driving, metal on metal screeching noise. At a stop, transmission felt engaged and the engine almost died. Rough shifting from one to two. What parts need to be looked at in the transmission?
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IMy golf 1.8t 2002 shutdown at idle and when you started again she started again and runs fine you stopped at light wait few seconds the engine shutoff.
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So my wife was driving our 2002 santa fe 2.7L and it shutdown. I went with the scanner and saw one code, P0340. I towed it home, changed the Crank Position sensor, which really sucked. I put it all back together and still no start. Same code.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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2005 GC. My headlights work some of the time. All all other lights work fine. Turning the switch on and off repeatedly sometimes get the lights on but sometime I just have to wait/drive abit before they come on. They also do not shut off automatically after the alotted time.
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I drove the car to town this morning, and then to work without problems. I go to get in the car and the car has no electrical power what so ever. I am going to check the voltage and battery terminals, but is there a fuse that sends power to everything in the car, including lights, horn, etc? There is NO power at all.
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I drive a 2008 Chrysler 300 base model with 150k miles. The other day I went over a dip in the road at 35 miles per hour and the steering power went out for about 3 seconds. The car pulled about 10 feet to the right as I struggled to counter steer to the left. The power suddenly came back and the jolt through off the alignment of my steering wheel. It was almost a serious accident.
Dealership said that there is no issues that they can see. I just need an alignment now. Pump is fine, holds pressure no leaks anywhere. Belt and tensioner look like new. keep driving till it happens again. They thought maybe the belt got wet and slipped but it hadn't rained in days and this was 40 minutes into the ride. I don't want to wait till I crash to do something. I don't believe the electric power went off in the whole car, I was to busy trying to avoid a crash to have noticed. However the car didn't stall or stop at all, it just kept driving when the steering came back.
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Less than two weeks ago I had the fuel pump replaced and battery terminals replaced on my 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition (not turbo.) I have almost 90,000 miles and have had very few minor issues all these years.Car stalled while driving, towed it to mechanic, he diagnoses fuel pump failure. So I had him replace fuel pump, and while I was there had battery terminals replaced, since I've dealt with some pesky corrosion recently.
I've never had electrical problems with this car. So here I am a week after repair, I'm driving and hear an electrical pop in the dash, then the radio turns off and back on within a few seconds. Nothing else happened, I chalk it up to a fluke and keep going. Well it happened again yesterday! Exact same "pop" then radio turns off, comes back on in 2-3 seconds.
Both events happened during the day, so I don't know yet if my headlights had been on, would this "pop" have affected lights too? Perhaps.
So what I'd like to know is: when the mechanic was replacing the fuel pump and battery terminals, do those repairs involve him messing with wiring at all? Could he have left a grounding wire disconnected? I've read a little about the fuel pump relay, but I have not been able to confirm that 2006 PT Cruiser has a fuel pump relay. ? Any other theories on what could be shorting out, creating an electrical "pop"?
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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The dashboard display on my 1998 Chrysler Town and Country fails intermittently. There are no readings for Fuel, Oil Temperature, speed or odometer. This condition comes and goes. My mechanic has tried every thing he knows and now says he has to replace the entire system?
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I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
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2006 Chrysler 300 Limited. Very strange issue here. If the ignition key is turned on, and the headlight switch in ANY position (auto, off, parking, or on) the headlights and fog lights turn off and on on their own! No rhyme or reason to it. At first if the headlight switch was in the "auto" position, it wouldn't give me a problem. Now I can't shut the headlights off, the foglights off, or "flick" the high beams on by pulling the "multi-function" switch back. Long story short, i think the actual headlight switch might be faulty, but the multi-function switch not making the headlights do anything is what is making me second guess this issue. Where else I should look? Fuses are all fine.
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My check engine light goes on ONLY when my husband starts the car.He is starting it normally.Then all the controls read incorrect such as temperature and RPMs.When I get back in my car later , I start it and it goes off! Why this is happening or what he might be doing?
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