Gmc - Yukon :: 2009 - Complete Electrical Shutdown?
Aug 1, 2014
I have a 2009 Yukon that experiences a complete electrical shutdown (like if I turned car off and removed key). The shutdown happens sporadically with no particular cause. It has rained everyday here in Fort Lauderdale for 45 days straight. About two weeks ago my Yukon's battery went dead after running the radio for two hours without the car on. I received a jump and the everything seemed fine, but the passenger's A/C came out hot for some reason. Once the car was turned off and on again all went back to normal.
This week the Yukon began shutting down. If I am driving it seems to just flicker of and on, but keeps on moving. If I turn the car off I have to wait 5-15 minuets then it just starts normally.
I had an after market sub-woofer w/amplifier installed (Best Buy) about two months ago. Don't know if this matters but it has been the only electrical modification done on the car.
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(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
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I went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
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2002 Chrysler Voyager, 3.3L V6, 133K miles.
I'm experiencing an intermittent total electrical shutdown. Driving at any speed, electrical system cuts out - lights, radio, gauges, motor - everything shuts down for a period of 3-4 seconds, then power is restored. Transmission that has disengaged during shutdown takes a few more seconds to re-engage. This can happen 15-20 times during a 25 mile trip or not at all. Last evening a 25 mile trip to destination w/ no problems. On the return, 6-7 shutdowns in the first few miles, then nary an issue. This morning, in pulling around a block to unload some cargo, 2 cutouts. I do not have to touch the key for the restart.
I have cleaned battery terminals & connectors w/ baking soda, scrubbed them w/ battery brush, coated w/ DiElectric grease, run an auxiliary ground, had the battery load tested (good for 700 cold cranking amps), and taken to the local mechanic who spent a few hours and 3 cruises w/ an analyzer hooked up. Not to worry, no problems manifest when van was w/ mechanic. BTW, no fault codes thrown, no "Check Engine" light appearing. Ignition switch tested as OK.
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I pumped gas at the local Chevron after noticing I was running just below a quarter tank this morning and immediately after turning the truck back on the instrument panel was dead. All other electric components worked fine (windows, headlights, signals, radio, etc.) Yukon GMC 2003 110k miles...
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Camry with 53 thousand miles on it. It has had new tires, regular oil changes and new filters, and as of yesterday, a new battery. That is all the work done on it. Yesterday it wouldn't start - I jump started it, then it died while at a complete stop on the road. I jump started it again and got a new battery (they said that the battery was bad).
Today I was driving, and when I have the AC on and I brake, the car violently shakes and feels like it is going to die on me. It works fine as long as the AC is not on. When the AC is turned on, the car shakes in Park as well. I don't know what to check or do. My fluids are fine (I was really low on coolant today but I filled it up). 2 weeks ago, I did hit a REALLY hard bump on the highway that felt like I blew out my tires. I am currently driving it without the AC on.
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Back in June I replaced all 4 brakes and rotors. Now all of sudden I hear a loud grinding noise in the front end only when I'm braking to a complete stop.
I took all 4 tires off and then took off the pads. The pads and rotors are all still brand new and have very minor normal wear. Also the calipers still look good.
I then put everything back together and went for a test drive. The grinding noise is still there. It's very loud and only when I come to a complete stop.
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I have had my ecoboost for a couple months now. Overall I am very happy with it but I have noticed a shudder recently when accelerating and when coming to a complete stop at times. I only feel it when accelerating from a stop or when stopping completely. Kind of feels like something slips. I think I recall reading about this before on the 2011 and 2012s somewhere. What is causing this and is there a fix or is it just the way these trucks are?? I can deal with it but it is kind of annoying when driving in traffic.
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I'm trying to fix a transmission problem with my work truck. It's a company owned, 2011 f150 super cab, 2wd, 5.0 and 6 speed auto. It currently has 225K miles. The problem is very random occurring 2-3 times per week, usually happens on start up, and goes away after a hand full of engine restarts. It has happened twice on the freeway, the transmission releases and a complete loss of power and coasts to a stop. At the same time, the speedometer goes to zero regardless of vehicle speed. Normally, when it happens, the speedometer does not read, all the mpg, miles to E, and related meters show bars "-----". The vehicle starts and takes off ok, but when it tries to shift, it just releases and the truck coasts to a stop. It will repeat this for a while.
After several restarts, the truck goes back to normal. This has happened a couple dozen times now. The wrench and check engine light came on during the very first instance, but the auto shop said there were no trouble codes stored. They kept it for a week, and said it never reoccurred. I have a lousy video that shows, when this happens, the trans starts in 2nd, jumps to 5th, then 2nd, then 5th. I am past due for a new work truck and this one is on its way out, but has to last another couple of months! This truck has otherwise been very problem free and well maintained. I'm actually thinking of trying to pick it up cheap, if the repair is not too bad.
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While my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4 with 63,000 miles. There have been issues starting the car for about a year and a half.
It all started when a key was inserted into the ignition about a year and a half ago and a click would just be heard after the key was turned to the start position. Usually it started after the key was removed and inserted again. Sometimes it would take a few tries but most of the time it would start right up on the try one.
After 10 months, the battery was replaced after the vehicle had to be jump started. Shortly after, I had a Viper 5901 remote starter installed in the vehicle by a reputable store. The issue seemed to go away and thought the issue was fixed. The vehicle now was started from the remote control 90% of the time.
The issue started to become worse about 2 months ago. It would take more than 15 tries to start and to temporarily relieve the issue; it can be started on the 3rd or 4th try by rocking the vehicle. The starter was replaced two weeks ago by a reputable auto mechanic at my request. I went to a camp the day after for a week and most of the time it just sat in the hot sun except for short errands sporadically throughout the week.
I then went on a week vacation and the car sat in the driveway. I came back and the car didn’t have any power. The battery read 1.2 volts. It was jump started and then I went to work. At the end of the work day, I tried to start the vehicle and just heard the click. After rocking the vehicle, it started right up.
I was curious to why the battery was that low and so I hooked up a meter inline from the battery terminal to the disconnected red wire. Please find the results below:
-Entire top of the fuse box was removed of fuses, relays, etc. – read 0.20A empty – it sounded like the fuse box clicked when the circuit was completed. Not quite sure what was plugged in to draw that much current.
-The fuse box was reconstructed except for a few fuses – read 0.24A
-M13 fuse was connected and current increased to 0.64A (0.40A increase from previous)M13 – 20A fuse for Cabin Compartment Node (CCN)/Wireless Control Module (WCM)/Multifunction Control Switch.
-M12 fuse was connected and current increased to 1.67A (1.03A increase from previous)M12 - 30A fuse for Radio/Amplifier
-Viper fuse was connected and current increased to 1.73A (0.06A increase from previous)
I guess it come down to a few questions:
-What could be the reasoning the vehicle does not start consistently? Is it due to the battery or something else?
-What would draw a ¼ Amp without any visible connections on the top of the fuse box?
-Why would fuse M12 take so much current without a key in the ignition?
-Anything else I should look for?
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Today my wife came home and said CEL was on, so I connected a bluetooth OBD2 reader (like I have done before) and read the codes, a P144a, which has something to do with the EVP. So, I shut the key off and proceeded to take the hose off of the EVP and unhook the wiring connector and then start the car to see if there was a vacuum leak through the valve. Well, when I went to start the car, it would not start. The Securilock icon was flashing on the dash and the car would only click, it would not turn over. I tried our spare key and got the same results.
I have tried unhooking the battery for 30 minutes but that has not made a difference either. Now, the key fob won't work at all, the door power locks won't work, the windows don't work, the radio, lights, heat and A/C won't work, and the dome lights won't come on. Whenever the battery is connected, I can hear a fast clicking sound coming from the area beneath and behind the radio and the front marker lights are on very very dim. The battery tests out at 12 volts. What in the world did I do and how can I fix it?
I should also note that I cannot get my OBD2 reader to connect to the system anymore. Also, after trying to leave the battery unhooked for 30 minutes again, the dome lights started working and the power locks would lock the door, but within about 3 seconds, the doors would automatically unlock. After turning the key to the start position, I again lost the dome lights and power locks.
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Truck is stuck in Park, cant get it out. Tire Pressure Monitor Failure warning is blinkings as is the low tire pressure light. Emergency Brake light stays on, EM brake is not engaged. No Electrical working, lights, radio, AC.. I don't know what is going on with it...
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My door will not lock..when you hit the remote, the door button or try to push it down..it goes down a little and there is resistance and then it comes right back up. If I use the key it will lock easily, but once you turn the key to get it out it comes right back up. I can hear the motor working, but it feels like there is something stopping it from going all the way down.
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I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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During my break in period, it seems to be only about 30 seconds, however, as of late, it's been a couple of minutes. Typically it's about 3 minutes, but last night it ran for close to 5 minutes.
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I commute about 70 minutes each way daily and sometimes listen to my music pretty loud. Occasionally after almost an hour of listening at mid volume level it will stop the sound. This is the Sound II package. The stereo is still on, and the time elapsed count stops.
I thought maybe the amp was shutting down from getting too hot, but that can't be it since if I eject and reinsert it will play again with no problem.
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After parking my car last night, this morning the key wouldn't work. So I manually opened the car door, and try to start the car. Nothing came on, even the clock. And now the key is stuck in the ignition.
It cant be the battery, because I think it should at least have enough juice to turn the light on.
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IMy golf 1.8t 2002 shutdown at idle and when you started again she started again and runs fine you stopped at light wait few seconds the engine shutoff.
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I have a concern about not hearing the whirring sound after shutdown anymore. I know that the sound comes from a small electric-pump that pumps 3 liters of coolant into a thermal container (to keep it hot) everytime I turn the hybrid system power OFF. When the power is turned back ON, the coolant is pumped back into the engine.
I've noticed that after I got an oil change and tire rotation at Pep Boys the sound is no longer there after shutdown or power up. Then after a couple of days I took the car to the dealer to fix the tire rotation (because Pep Boys didn't do a good job at rotating the tires, there was a woo woo woo sound while driving) and the dealer also did a multi-point check, but they didn't say anything was wrong with the car.
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